ENGINE PROBLEMS.......
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 16
From: Orlando,FL
ENGINE PROBLEMS.......
I just purchased a 1998 Honda Superhawk, its my first v-twin. It was garage kept for the past six years stage one jet kit, K&N filters. Rode it for two weeks, it rode great. awsome bike. No problems or noises or nothing. I switched into second gear, goin slow, and she started clankin and shut down. Noise sounds like its coming from the front of the motor. Maybe my camchain getting caught up, dont know. I took the front head cover off and camchain was intact but loose, so I tightened the camchain tensioner, didnt fix it.
Video--- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AqLS...ature=youtu.be
any help or ideas would be great i love the bike would like to get her back on the road.
Video--- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AqLS...ature=youtu.be
any help or ideas would be great i love the bike would like to get her back on the road.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 16
From: Orlando,FL
I pulled the tensioner and it was still intact, a little wear at the end and the screw pushed it in and out just fine, but I dont know that its not loosening when the bike turns. Do tensioners go bad?
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,090
From: Big Lick
I've not experienced a failure or seen a bad CCT, so can't tell you. Others will chime in on that, I'm sure. It would certainly be easy to tell if you get to the valves and can watch as you turn the crank and see if the valves open and close with the timing marks. Short of that though, let's see what others think.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 16
From: Orlando,FL
thanks for the info guys, lots of help. (except sheldon.........lemons are a myth).
does anyone know what the odds of my rear cct goin out as well, seeing as how they are $75 a peice?
does anyone know what the odds of my rear cct goin out as well, seeing as how they are $75 a peice?
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,707
From: Essex, UK
First you need to fix your front cylinder head, replace valves etc. or transplant a new second-hand head on. Then while your fixing that fit manual CCTs to replace your auto self destruct OEM front & rear. Job done and reliability ensured. Check the workshop knowledgeabase area of the forum
Look at also replacing unfinned R/R with a later upgraded finned version.
Look at also replacing unfinned R/R with a later upgraded finned version.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
Most likely your cam chain tensioner failed. Did you set your front piston to TDC on the compression stroke before pulling the cct? Don't try to run the bike until you fix it or you will ruin the engine.
My front cct went out. I pulled it and it looked fine, as you said yours does, until I pulled it apart. There is a ring clip holding the internals into the housing, pull that off and pull out the insides. My internal spring was broken, a visual inspection of the cct without disassembely is useless.
I can tell you exactly how to fix your timing to make your own manual ccts for less than $15, I just did mine this week. PM for info, ill post up pictures here as soon as I get home to help you out too
My front cct went out. I pulled it and it looked fine, as you said yours does, until I pulled it apart. There is a ring clip holding the internals into the housing, pull that off and pull out the insides. My internal spring was broken, a visual inspection of the cct without disassembely is useless.
I can tell you exactly how to fix your timing to make your own manual ccts for less than $15, I just did mine this week. PM for info, ill post up pictures here as soon as I get home to help you out too
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,871
From: Phoenix, AZ
The rear is less likely to go out than the front, but still an unknown for sure and relatively cheap insurance to replace. You have the option of putting in manual adjusting CCT's which cannot fail on you. New OEM ones work well too if you care for them properly. Also, you may be interested in this for the price:
Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts
Good luck with figuring it out!
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
To set TDC
It is easiest to pull the cylinder head cover (you will need to do this to reset the timing anyways) to set TDC. Put your bike on a rear stand (or two jack stands under the rear swing arm, just get the rear wheel off the ground) put it into sixth gear. You will need to rotate the back tire to set TDC, the cam lobes on the front cylinder should point away front each other and slightly up.
The cam sprockets have different stamps on them, line up the exhaust sprocket (front sprocket) so that the FE mark is parallel with the head surface. Much like this picture, this just shows the intake sprocket aligned
Your timing most likely jumped, so only worry about the exhaust sprocket ligning up (the intake sprocket is the one that will be out of time on the front cylinder, the exhaust will be out on the back cylinder.
When the front sprocket is aligned with the cam lobes in the same direction, you will need to remove the cam chain guide. This is in between the two sprockets and is held by 3 10mm bolts. Don't drop the bolts in the head or you will be tearing it out to find it. With the guide out, remove the last 3 bolts holding the intake cam cover (the cover has IN stamped on it). I forgot to mention that the cct should not be in after you align the exhaust sprocket.
With the cam cover off, you can move the cam to remove the timing chain. Becareful not to drop the chain or to allow the exhaust side to loosen, its best to use a wire tie to hold the chain on the sprocket. With the chain off, rotate the cam to point the cam upwards and towards the engine so that the FI marks on the sprocket line up with the head surface. Put the chain back on and replace all bolts and you are now correctly timed again. Be careful when putting the cylinder head cover bolts back in, they break easily and only need to be little more than finger right.
I will post back later with info for making your own cct,
It is easiest to pull the cylinder head cover (you will need to do this to reset the timing anyways) to set TDC. Put your bike on a rear stand (or two jack stands under the rear swing arm, just get the rear wheel off the ground) put it into sixth gear. You will need to rotate the back tire to set TDC, the cam lobes on the front cylinder should point away front each other and slightly up.
The cam sprockets have different stamps on them, line up the exhaust sprocket (front sprocket) so that the FE mark is parallel with the head surface. Much like this picture, this just shows the intake sprocket aligned
Your timing most likely jumped, so only worry about the exhaust sprocket ligning up (the intake sprocket is the one that will be out of time on the front cylinder, the exhaust will be out on the back cylinder.
When the front sprocket is aligned with the cam lobes in the same direction, you will need to remove the cam chain guide. This is in between the two sprockets and is held by 3 10mm bolts. Don't drop the bolts in the head or you will be tearing it out to find it. With the guide out, remove the last 3 bolts holding the intake cam cover (the cover has IN stamped on it). I forgot to mention that the cct should not be in after you align the exhaust sprocket.
With the cam cover off, you can move the cam to remove the timing chain. Becareful not to drop the chain or to allow the exhaust side to loosen, its best to use a wire tie to hold the chain on the sprocket. With the chain off, rotate the cam to point the cam upwards and towards the engine so that the FI marks on the sprocket line up with the head surface. Put the chain back on and replace all bolts and you are now correctly timed again. Be careful when putting the cylinder head cover bolts back in, they break easily and only need to be little more than finger right.
I will post back later with info for making your own cct,
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Back Marker
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 155
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
Alright here is how to make your own manual cam chain tensioners for way cheaper than buying them, if you have the tools that is...
You will need:
(all hardware needs to be stainless steel)
Two 5/16ths x 6 inch long coarse thread carriage bolts
Two 5/16ths coarse thread nylock nuts
Two 5/16ths coarse thread hex nuts
Two 5/16ths washers
Stock gaskets (I bought a gasket sheet and made my own, cost 52 cents)
RTV gasket sealer or silicone
5/16ths coarse thread tap
17/64ths drill bit
If you don't have the means to drill and tap, you can disregard those steps and use a 6mm carriage bolt if you can find one, there is no standard size that is equal to 6mm. It is also not aas rigid as a larger bolt, which is why I did not use one.
This is what I found inside my front cct when it failed
You will need to follow the instructions in the sticky thread under Knowledge Base, it is by calitoz and is titled something along the lines of Installing APE CCT'S. Follow these instructions very closely, it is the same procedure for home made. I highly recommend removing the cylinder head covers to be 100% sure you are at the correct stroke before removing the ccts.
Lets start with assuming the cct is out (you can only do one at a time). Remove the ring clip holding the internals inside and slide everything out. Remove the 6mm bolt at the top of the housing and discard.
Use a milling machine or drill press and drill the hole that the 6mm bolt was in. Make sure that you are drilled square into the housing or it won't work correctly. Use plenty of WD40 while drilling.
After you have drilled through, clean all of the metal shavings out. Use the tap and slowly cut the threads, again making sure to be square.
Thread the carriage bolt into the housing from the inside. Place a washer with some rtv on the threads, rtv side towards the housing. Thread a nylock nut on to the protruding threads and down to the housing. Thread the hex nut on, but only enough to where it sits flush with the end of the threads. Weld this nut into place, as this will be your adjusting nut.
You now have a manual cct.
(note: the above picture does not show the hex nut welded to the end of the threads. I also use an extra hex nut before the nylock nut, but I determined it to be overkill so its not necessary)
Install as directed in calitoz thread. I suggest removing the chain guide between the sprockets and tightening the tensioner until there is 1/4" to 3/8" play between the sprockets. Button everything back up and you are done.
You will need:
(all hardware needs to be stainless steel)
Two 5/16ths x 6 inch long coarse thread carriage bolts
Two 5/16ths coarse thread nylock nuts
Two 5/16ths coarse thread hex nuts
Two 5/16ths washers
Stock gaskets (I bought a gasket sheet and made my own, cost 52 cents)
RTV gasket sealer or silicone
5/16ths coarse thread tap
17/64ths drill bit
If you don't have the means to drill and tap, you can disregard those steps and use a 6mm carriage bolt if you can find one, there is no standard size that is equal to 6mm. It is also not aas rigid as a larger bolt, which is why I did not use one.
This is what I found inside my front cct when it failed
You will need to follow the instructions in the sticky thread under Knowledge Base, it is by calitoz and is titled something along the lines of Installing APE CCT'S. Follow these instructions very closely, it is the same procedure for home made. I highly recommend removing the cylinder head covers to be 100% sure you are at the correct stroke before removing the ccts.
Lets start with assuming the cct is out (you can only do one at a time). Remove the ring clip holding the internals inside and slide everything out. Remove the 6mm bolt at the top of the housing and discard.
Use a milling machine or drill press and drill the hole that the 6mm bolt was in. Make sure that you are drilled square into the housing or it won't work correctly. Use plenty of WD40 while drilling.
After you have drilled through, clean all of the metal shavings out. Use the tap and slowly cut the threads, again making sure to be square.
Thread the carriage bolt into the housing from the inside. Place a washer with some rtv on the threads, rtv side towards the housing. Thread a nylock nut on to the protruding threads and down to the housing. Thread the hex nut on, but only enough to where it sits flush with the end of the threads. Weld this nut into place, as this will be your adjusting nut.
You now have a manual cct.
(note: the above picture does not show the hex nut welded to the end of the threads. I also use an extra hex nut before the nylock nut, but I determined it to be overkill so its not necessary)
Install as directed in calitoz thread. I suggest removing the chain guide between the sprockets and tightening the tensioner until there is 1/4" to 3/8" play between the sprockets. Button everything back up and you are done.
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Back Marker
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 201
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