Re: DYNOJET POLL ! TORQUE POCKETS FOUND
 

I am. I think I said that...raised all the way. Jardine high mounts and a BMC air filter.

Probably not unless you're using an aftermarket filter. You've had enough practice by now to test it as is and rip it apart one last time for a jet swap if it's a little lean on top.

Actually, if it feels good on the road, go get a dyno run w/ an EGA. I did that after my last tweak with the coupon that the K&N kit came with and they threw on the EGA for free. I told the guy what I'd gone through so far and he said not to touch it again, the A/F ratio was between 12.5:1 and 13.5:1 all the way up and it was the flattest torque curve he had ever seen. I got 103 at the peak but could've seen more if the clutch wasn't slipping (or maybe more duration on the cams...he couldn't say for sure) but I'm VERY happy. He topped it off with, "I've always liked these better than the RC51." That coming from a guy who still races (GSX-Rs) well into his 50s.

Re: DYNOJET POLL ! TORQUE POCKETS FOUND
 

clevland, you must really love this bike, i would have burned it long time ago! i give you much credit for sticking it out! you will get it just persevere and the problems will be solved.

Re: DYNOJET POLL ! TORQUE POCKETS FOUND
 

lol, yes i do :o .. well, every day it gets dialed in more. hell, i love this carb science so much, i may drop law school and go to MMI for schooling ! ! ! hahah. (wonder how much they make workin on bikes?)

what is your bike temperature at on the analog gauge when warm after 10 minutes of stop and go 35mph???? analog only, mine was right before half way and maybe a nibble after. think mines high, which is a sign of running lean/rich?


anyways, rode it 10 miles today in city somewhat busy traffic.
heres the results from going from clip 5 (yesterday) to clip 4 from the flat end:

1. bike will take about 5 minutes to warm, then idle correctly, if i hold it at 2.5k on the kickstand, itll slowly put down until itll stall.

2. when it finally warms up, i can wheelie and rip up and down the street, BUT THE BIGGEST THING THAT PLAGUES ME STILL is that after 5 minutes of riding yeasterday on clip 5 and 15 minutes today on clip 4 THE IDLE will drop to like 900 rpm and then the bike COMPLETELY loses its "crispness" or when i flick the throttle, it wont rip up to higher rpm.... very weird. i guess ill try clip 3 tomorrow... cant be any lower than that , right? then after 5 minutes of that, it went back to normal... though, when it idles low at 900 rpm without me changin it, its like a 300cc vtwin.. no crap real weird. i think its loading up, leends to be lean.

3. my idle MIX SCREWS ARE AT 2 1/4. i heard that to stop backfiring you can mess with these. only other thing is that when the bike IS running correctly and the torque and crisp throttle is there, i get a backfire right after i rev it up at idle to 4k itll pop.. i mean as the throttle goes down from the very top, POP! :shock: . well, funny thing is, when the idle drops mid-ride, and theres ABSOLUTELY no power.... the popping stops. messed up eh... im callin dynojet man tomorrow :D

just lookin for ideas... no biggie. i can be a nuisance but i just wouldnt mind cutting a corner if you guys know...

Re: DYNOJET POLL ! TORQUE POCKETS FOUND
 

cleavland, as far as your question of the temp gauge goes, mine sits just past halfway in stop and go traffic at about 70 F air temp (bought my bike last week of sept, hasnt been warmer than that yet!), but dont worry about high temps as long as your fan works ok. also, my bike is HEAVILY modified, with very expensive true dual equal headers with an h-pipe or as ducatti calls it "spaghetti" exhaust. my bike will not run on its own in temp below 50 for at least 2 mins. even if i leave the "choke" knob on. the pop sound on decel after hard accel sounds normal, you have to remember that fuel is still going into cyliders at a very rapid pace when you let off the throttle, not all that fuel is being burnt when you let off the throttle and the "backfire" you are hearing is probably the fuel burning in your headers. since you have race pipes, it is going to be more noticable than with regular or even aftermarket pipes. listen to a stock car go around in a circle and let off the gas, sounds like hell! as far as cutting corners when dialing in carbs, no such thing! take your time, i have spent days on a dyno stroking every last bit of power out of a demon street carb for a pontiac 400 and still didnt get it perfect for another couple of days. carbs are very complex, i dont care what anybody says. take your time, take many breaks, and keep the faith!

Whew. sorry to hear about the thrashing you're going through.

First off. the bike will run fine with slip-ons and the stock #45 pilot jets. I changed mine to #48 to get rid of decel popping, but it ran fine otherwise.

Is it idling ok? Are the carbs synchronized? Start with those two things. To set the idle mixture on the bike requires a special tool. I borrowed one to do the adjustment. If you've made a tool that works, fine. 1/8 turn out from fastest idle was how I did it. It is a very subtle adjustment. 2- 1/2 turns out is only a rough starting point. Idle is independent of the needle and main jet.

As the velocity through the throttle body increases the needle pulls out of the emulsion tube, and gradually passes control to the main jet due to its taper.

A flat spot around 3.5k occurs if the needles are too far in (too low), causing the mixture to lean out. The 4th notch works well for me (if i recall correctly).

On the main jets I would start small (175F, 180R) and look for consistent pull to redline in 4th gear. If it starts to stumble at high RPM (7-9k), you are probably too lean and can go up one size on the mains. It will run ok in an overly rich condition, so you're better off finding out where too lean is. You may have to fine tune the needles after you change the main jets.

A dyno can be the final word, but you should be able to get close without it. Just take one step at a time and start from the beginning, changing one thing at a time.

My carbs have been off many times!!

Good Luck!

Oops, I said vacuum actuated the slides. It's actually the air velocity through the throttle body that creates a drop in static pressure.

Re: DYNOJET POLL ! TORQUE POCKETS FOUND
 

ideas ideas... ok guys, ill be rockin today and this weekend.... thanks a lot.... i hope that nasty stumble at 3k goes bye bye....


this is it though... did some thorough test yesterday. went to clip one, yes, it ran like crap.
HOWEVER, when im at a stop sign, the rpm you have to go to to get from stop to go smoothly is where it stumbles... IN FACT GUYS, i can hold it there at like 3k, and its almost like im flooding it . like lets say i held it for 2 seconds. the rpm's slow sput sput down , and it STALLS. thats it. so when im tryin to go 30mph in a 25mph zone, its near impossible cus it pop pops and jerks like mad.

i just wanna make sure its not the slow jet thats all cus the only real problem resides at like 1/16 of a a throttle.. the dynojet guy said to remove the 180/185 and go to 175-180 cus the main jet still may be loading all that fuel into the cylinders... so ill do that today. then put needles at 4. but when i did that... it ran great but still loaded up and turned to a 500cc moto scooter after 10 min of drivin :evil: . we shall see. i see it as a learning experience... my friends think im nuts. :shock:

thanks again guys :wink:

You have all the information you need. Just settle down, get your needles right and you'll be fine. Main jets are not the cause. Change ONE thing at a time.

You did drill the slide body and put the Dynojet springs in, right???

Re: DYNOJET POLL ! TORQUE POCKETS FOUND
 

hey, patience is my middle name. i love this stuff. yes, ofcourse i did :) . well, tslked to the dyno men... im gonna try in 45 minutes simply openin the air mix screws to 3/14 , which is 1/2 turn more than ive done. theyre thinkin its either the mix screws since its so LOW on the throttle, or slow jet/idle jet needs to be bigger to compensate for my open pipes. we shall see. :P

Re: DYNOJET POLL ! TORQUE POCKETS FOUND
 

got it guys... runs like a top. guess i was hooking to the wrong vaccuum niple on the petcock? i was hooking to the big one pointing down and not the smaller diameter one pointing to the side... well ,i tested other things, and the only things i changed was the float bowl overflow tubes i pulled out of the middle of the carbs and pointed them down and raised the needles to the 5th instead of the 4th setting. thats it.. couldnt have fixed it... and i tested both vaccuum nipples and both made fuel shoot out of the fuel nipple ends. i guess the smaller one is constant. i dunno. weird. but it runs like a frikkin top now. thanks for all the help! and if you need some tips, talk to KYLE from dynojet, he has a rc51 and knows our VTR's . tell em jeremy sent ya, and he'll roll his eyes (well, im sure he would be you cant tell over the phone :wink: )

Re: DYNOJET POLL ! TORQUE POCKETS FOUND
 

Second time I've heard this in a week. The "nipple" on the bottom of the fuel diaphram is not a nipple. The vacuum hose goes on the back, not the bottom.