BURNOUTS!!??
04-02-2008, 06:34 PM
#1
JAMES
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BURNOUTS!!??
OK... i just got new tires and it's time to smoke the old ones!! but im pretty new to street riding and never tried one on the street b4.... so i thought i would ask you guys... b4 i fliped my HAWK and broke my arm.... please help me with the proper technique!!
Thanks..
Thanks..
04-02-2008, 06:53 PM
#2
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I can't believe I'm going to do this but like sticking your finger to a candlelight some folks just can't resist doing it so I'll respond......... 
OK, put the front tire against a wall, rev it up real good and dump the clutch. Don't let off the throttle or it will try to hook up. Now that you'll know what it feels like, you'll have less chance of effin' it up out in the open.
BTW, you will make a mess all over the rear end of the bike.
OK, put the front tire against a wall, rev it up real good and dump the clutch. Don't let off the throttle or it will try to hook up. Now that you'll know what it feels like, you'll have less chance of effin' it up out in the open.
BTW, you will make a mess all over the rear end of the bike.
04-02-2008, 07:15 PM
#3
evil man of nothing
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**** super I was just gonna tell him how to do it for real and let the chips fall where they may lol. But I guess you're not a heartless bastard like me 
Actually I take that back I'd love to see him try it with your technique out in the open lol. Seriously pimp be careful. More like hold the front brake, take the weight off the rear wheel (stand up), and give it some gas and feed out the clutch till the wheel starts spinning-preferably in 2nd gear. Honestly there are better ways to spend your time so you don't get hurt.
Actually I take that back I'd love to see him try it with your technique out in the open lol. Seriously pimp be careful. More like hold the front brake, take the weight off the rear wheel (stand up), and give it some gas and feed out the clutch till the wheel starts spinning-preferably in 2nd gear. Honestly there are better ways to spend your time so you don't get hurt.
04-02-2008, 08:13 PM
#4
RIP Zy! You will always be in our hearts.
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Line your entire inner fender and other tid bits in that area with painters tape. This way you can just rip off the tape...and not be stuck scrubbing rubber out of every little spot. Try throwing some dirt or sand down...just a little. It will get your tire spinning right away with barely any popping of the clutch. Remember, if you hold it in one spot long enough, it will eventually create a little hole in the pavement, so don't hold a burnout in a spot where you don't want to look at a black hole everyday.
04-02-2008, 08:16 PM
#5
Thats Mr Dill hole to you
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buy about 30 dollars worth of bug/tar remover b4 your start this project
burnin off a tire will "F" your bike up real good. The rubber turns to goo. I especially hate cleaning the plate and tail light But YYMV.
burnin off a tire will "F" your bike up real good. The rubber turns to goo. I especially hate cleaning the plate and tail light But YYMV.
04-02-2008, 08:27 PM
#6
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First, I wouldn't do it on the street. Find a good parking lot in the middle of nowhere and bring a video camera. Make sure there is no gravel or sand or slick spots in the area.
A little water will work too to get things turnin.
Stand up and get it spinning to prolly around 7-8k rpm in first. Put your feet up on the pegs while SLOWLY releasing the front brake. Stand up on the pegs and lean over the tank and draw smiley faces for all the church goers in the morning (cause you'll be doing it at midnight on a Saturday in a quiet empty church parking lot). Have a truck or trailer standing by to throw the bike in once it pops. And have some lookouts for cops, or call in a bank robbery on the other side of town.
Wear your helmet.
Make sure the crowd stays at least a hundred feet back for your first time. Don't point the bike at the crowd. A few beers helps the whole process since you'll be relaxed and have more finesse with the controls. Not so much that you lose your balance though. Alcohol also helps you not think about the incredible strain on your engine as it is overheating at redline. You may want to practice this in the dirt first on a quad or a dirtbike just to get the feel.
Most of all, HAVE FUN.
Post pics when you're done. OR have a friend post pics frame by frame of you and the bike launching. See if you can scan the X-rays too and put them up.
A little water will work too to get things turnin.
Stand up and get it spinning to prolly around 7-8k rpm in first. Put your feet up on the pegs while SLOWLY releasing the front brake. Stand up on the pegs and lean over the tank and draw smiley faces for all the church goers in the morning (cause you'll be doing it at midnight on a Saturday in a quiet empty church parking lot). Have a truck or trailer standing by to throw the bike in once it pops. And have some lookouts for cops, or call in a bank robbery on the other side of town.
Wear your helmet.
Make sure the crowd stays at least a hundred feet back for your first time. Don't point the bike at the crowd. A few beers helps the whole process since you'll be relaxed and have more finesse with the controls. Not so much that you lose your balance though. Alcohol also helps you not think about the incredible strain on your engine as it is overheating at redline. You may want to practice this in the dirt first on a quad or a dirtbike just to get the feel.
Most of all, HAVE FUN.
Post pics when you're done. OR have a friend post pics frame by frame of you and the bike launching. See if you can scan the X-rays too and put them up.
04-02-2008, 09:31 PM
#8
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good way to smoke your clutch. hard on the front brake, give it some gas and let the clutch out quickly.
once you get the feel... get going about 10mph, stand on the pegs and lean FAR forward... pull in the clutch & rev it up a bit... dump the clutch & do a nice rolling burnout !
tim
04-03-2008, 12:16 AM
#10
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OK... i just got new tires and it's time to smoke the old ones!! but im pretty new to street riding and never tried one on the street b4.... so i thought i would ask you guys... b4 i fliped my HAWK and broke my arm.... please help me with the proper technique!!
Thanks..
Thanks..
04-03-2008, 07:00 AM
#13
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good way to smoke your clutch. hard on the front brake, give it some gas and let the clutch out quickly.
once you get the feel... get going about 10mph, stand on the pegs and lean FAR forward... pull in the clutch & rev it up a bit... dump the clutch & do a nice rolling burnout !
tim
once you get the feel... get going about 10mph, stand on the pegs and lean FAR forward... pull in the clutch & rev it up a bit... dump the clutch & do a nice rolling burnout !
tim
04-03-2008, 07:18 AM
#14
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Wow, you guys are cruel! Pimp, SHawks are difficult bikes to smoke shows with, especially if you are new to it. My advice is to start with a cold tire. If you ride to a parking lot (warm tire) and decide to rev it up and dump the clutch.....PLEASE have a buddy there with a vid camera so we can all watch the outcome. That being said, don't do it.
If your tire's warm, find some sand to place it in or get some alcohol or water to put under it. Letting the clutch out slow with a warm tire on dry pavement will cause your front tire to push. Letting it out fast will launch you. Smoking the tire for longer than a few seconds will mean a hell of a lot of scraping and polishing. Painter's tape works well under the fenders for rubber build-up. High temp cooking spray may work ok for the exhaust. Have fun.
If your tire's warm, find some sand to place it in or get some alcohol or water to put under it. Letting the clutch out slow with a warm tire on dry pavement will cause your front tire to push. Letting it out fast will launch you. Smoking the tire for longer than a few seconds will mean a hell of a lot of scraping and polishing. Painter's tape works well under the fenders for rubber build-up. High temp cooking spray may work ok for the exhaust. Have fun.
04-03-2008, 09:58 AM
#15
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Im not sure what the big deal here is....doing a stationary burnout is fairly easy... are you wanting to do a rolling burnout or something because that can get quite a bit more dangerous.
My technique has always been to Stand up, Hold hard on front brake while leaning onto the bars, and slip the clutch out pretty fast at high revs...I never drop the clutch because i feel like you have less control that way. If it feels like the bikes gripping and wants to take off just grab the clutch and try again.
I dont know how i like the idea of putting your front tire against a wall...seems like a bad idea and would be bad for the front end but thats just me...
like I said though, I dont see the big deal about doing a stationary burnout...not that crazy, although a rolling burnout can be pretty dangerous.
My technique has always been to Stand up, Hold hard on front brake while leaning onto the bars, and slip the clutch out pretty fast at high revs...I never drop the clutch because i feel like you have less control that way. If it feels like the bikes gripping and wants to take off just grab the clutch and try again.
I dont know how i like the idea of putting your front tire against a wall...seems like a bad idea and would be bad for the front end but thats just me...
like I said though, I dont see the big deal about doing a stationary burnout...not that crazy, although a rolling burnout can be pretty dangerous.
04-03-2008, 10:46 AM
#16
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How is that any different than holding the brake? Either way the front isn't gonna move while the back is pushing..
04-03-2008, 11:32 AM
#18
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seems to me that using the brakes will cause the forks to compress more like they are designed to, putting it against the wall seems like it would just push the forks back and put stress on them in ways they arnt made for....who knows...just my 2cents
04-03-2008, 01:24 PM
#19
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simply physics.
04-03-2008, 09:57 PM
#21
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bad burnout
Last edited by Firehawk_ordie; 04-03-2008 at 10:31 PM. Reason: spelling "don't"
04-03-2008, 10:19 PM
#22
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I think this video accurately represents this thread...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBj0Bb9vO8E
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBj0Bb9vO8E
Hence the warnings...............
04-04-2008, 09:23 AM
#24
Thats Mr Dill hole to you
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No i dont think so actually the tire would be having force applied to the center front instead of the bottom. That would shorten the lever action
and move closer to the fulcrum point so it would actually be better on the forks to put it against the wall less leverage on the triples etc ....
at least thats my opinion.
04-04-2008, 09:45 AM
#25
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Its less force on the contact patch of the tire, but really no less force on the steering neck. Its not the triples you have to worry about, anyway, its the frame. My bike squats the same against a wall or the brakes, I vote it doesn't matter, and the force is the same, not less.
04-04-2008, 04:16 PM
#27
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No i dont think so actually the tire would be having force applied to the center front instead of the bottom. That would shorten the lever action
and move closer to the fulcrum point so it would actually be better on the forks to put it against the wall less leverage on the triples etc ....
at least thats my opinion.
and move closer to the fulcrum point so it would actually be better on the forks to put it against the wall less leverage on the triples etc ....
at least thats my opinion.
so while the forces on the wheel will be different, no matter where you prevent the wheel from moving the forces on the forks will be identical.
Even if you tied the wheel with a rope, or were up against a wall, or used the brakes or any other way..
So long as we are talking about the front wheel not moving it will all be the same.
Like I said, physics.
04-04-2008, 05:51 PM
#28
The Hypno-Toad
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Yeah, the force at the axle is the same whether the force on the tire is at the bottom or the front as long as the forces remain static (no slipping). That force transfers to the forks the same then. Dammit, how did we drag physics into this burnout. Look I'm done with work for the week, I'm going to drink beer and forget stuff, good luck and take pictures for us.
04-05-2008, 02:00 AM
#29
Thats Mr Dill hole to you
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I hate to do this but could not let it go.
Accroding to newton's law of motion
The principle of motion can be derived. Which was first thought of
by Archimedes.
The amount of work done is given by force times distance.
So if the force is applied 12" higher on the tire(i measured) it changes
the force applied to the steering head. We can look at the forks as simply
a first class lever if you shorten the lever the force applied is less at the fulcrum. Ever used a "Cheater" in a wrench or a rachet ? The longer the cheater the more force applied to the item you are attempting to move. So reducing the length of the cheater would result in a diminished amount
of force to the item. Now with that said lets take into consideration the torsion on the forks from the brake calipers biting down on the rotors wich are attached to the forks (this is using the no wall/tree method)would apply a different force to the forks causing them to flex theoreticly in the middle of the two points of attachment (steering head and axle pin).
While the bike is designed for these types of loads/forces in your statement. You said that the forces on the forks/steering head would be the same. Which i believe is a incorrect statement.
Now i will shut up.
Accroding to newton's law of motion
The principle of motion can be derived. Which was first thought of
by Archimedes.
The amount of work done is given by force times distance.
So if the force is applied 12" higher on the tire(i measured) it changes
the force applied to the steering head. We can look at the forks as simply
a first class lever if you shorten the lever the force applied is less at the fulcrum. Ever used a "Cheater" in a wrench or a rachet ? The longer the cheater the more force applied to the item you are attempting to move. So reducing the length of the cheater would result in a diminished amount
of force to the item. Now with that said lets take into consideration the torsion on the forks from the brake calipers biting down on the rotors wich are attached to the forks (this is using the no wall/tree method)would apply a different force to the forks causing them to flex theoreticly in the middle of the two points of attachment (steering head and axle pin).
While the bike is designed for these types of loads/forces in your statement. You said that the forces on the forks/steering head would be the same. Which i believe is a incorrect statement.
Now i will shut up.
04-05-2008, 03:12 AM
#30
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Ok... if you're gonna go all math geek on us at the very least get it right...
No... it's not 12"... I don't care how you measured... the fork is at an angle... You have to calculate that... But you are correct in that the force applied to the fork becomes less than with locked brakes...
Yes, the brakes will apply a torsion force... no, the forks will not flex at the middle... it will be close the the bottom third, the exact spot have to be calculated...
As the torsion force interacts with the applied leverage to actually reduce the force on the steering head (as it changes it's angle of application) the net result on the steering head should actually be roughly the same when using brakes and a wall... However you are less likely to bend the forks as the internal forces have less agressive angles...
So in theory the wall is easier on the bike than locking the brakes... But are the actual forces the same? Nope...
Carry on...
No... it's not 12"... I don't care how you measured... the fork is at an angle... You have to calculate that... But you are correct in that the force applied to the fork becomes less than with locked brakes...
Yes, the brakes will apply a torsion force... no, the forks will not flex at the middle... it will be close the the bottom third, the exact spot have to be calculated...
As the torsion force interacts with the applied leverage to actually reduce the force on the steering head (as it changes it's angle of application) the net result on the steering head should actually be roughly the same when using brakes and a wall... However you are less likely to bend the forks as the internal forces have less agressive angles...
So in theory the wall is easier on the bike than locking the brakes... But are the actual forces the same? Nope...
Carry on...
