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The Digi Sync - BEST - Throttle Body and Carb Sync Tool
Another product solicitation coming your way...
Don't worry, I'll try to make this worthwhile.
We found a need and developed a product to fill this need. We're not charging a fortune for it. We simply want to share it with a community we love.
The problem:
Throttle body and carburetor synchronization has always been a challenging task. However, it's part of routine maintenance and we felt this task should have been just as easy as changing your own oil. We've tried a variety of products. The dial gauges are a clumsy tool that needs interpretation and the manometer fluids could easily be sucked into your engine if you blip the throttle too high!
The Solution:
We created a digital peaking manometer that doesn't have any of these limitations and exceeds the accuracy requirements of your shop manual. This tool self-calibrates and makes the synchronization process so easy you can literally sync your carbs in less time than it takes you to change your oil!
We offer 2, 4, & 6-Channel versions of the tool.
We've been selling the product since 2015 and have sold 10's of thousands across the globe and never had a single return request! Everyone who buys the product loves it.
Please note that we keep our profit margins low on purpose. This was never intended to make us rich. We built the tool for ourselves and others fell in love with it. So, we built more, and more, and more to the point we could no longer keep up with the demand. Earlier this year, we moved to a larger manufacturing facility. We're advertising now for the first time ever in order to afford these new manufacturing expenses. We feel this is a must-have tool for any Do-It-Yourselfer and we build it primarily as a service to help others who love to ride.
That's it. I'll do my best to monitor this thread and respond to any questions.
Last edited by TheDigiSync; Jun 18, 2020 at 09:12 PM.
Do you own a VTR or are you just here to sell your stuff?
Originally Posted by TheDigiSync
Another product solicitation coming your way...
Don't worry, I'll try to make this worthwhile.
We found a need and developed a product to fill this need. We're not charging a fortune for it. We simply want to share it with a community we love.
The problem:
Throttle body and carburetor synchronization has always been a challenging task. However, it's part of routine maintenance and we felt this task should have been just as easy as changing your own oil. We've tried a variety of products. The dial gauges are a clumsy tool that needs interpretation and the manometer fluids could easily be sucked into your engine if you blip the throttle too high!
The Solution:
We created a digital peaking manometer that doesn't have any of these limitations and exceeds the accuracy requirements of your shop manual. This tool self-calibrates and makes the synchronization process so easy you can literally sync your carbs in less time than it takes you to change your oil!
We offer 2, 4, & 6-Channel versions of the tool.
We've been selling the product since 2015 and have sold 10's of thousands across the globe and never had a single return request! Everyone who buys the product loves it.
Please note that we keep our profit margins low on purpose. This was never intended to make us rich. We built the tool for ourselves and others fell in love with it. So, we built more, and more, and more to the point we could no longer keep up with the demand. Earlier this year, we moved to a larger manufacturing facility. We're advertising now for the first time ever in order to afford these new manufacturing expenses. We feel this is a must-have tool for any Do-It-Yourselfer and we build it primarily as a service to help others who love to ride.
That's it. I'll do my best to monitor this thread and respond to any questions.
I personally own an 83' Nighthawk 650, but to be completely transparent with you, my primary goal here is to advertise a product. And to make sure there is at least some mutual benefit, I have signed up as a forum sponsor.
Again, we've set the price point at "just enough" to keep this as a profitable business because we see this as a tool that can help so many people in a community we love. An easy way to demonstrate the truth in this is to take a look at our competitor product, the Motion Pro SyncPro. This item sells between $95 to $115 and it is a plastic container that holds fluids. We offer a complex piece of engineering with software that took years of refinement and each sensor/channel alone costs approx. $15. So, on a 4-channel unit, the sensors alone account for $60 of the materials cost! With all that considered, most people are amazed that we can offer our 4-channel unit for only $160 USD. And guess what, our 6-channel unit only costs $30 more (the cost of 2 sensors) whereas most businesses would charge a premium for the top-end model.
I hate solicitations myself. That's why I'm trying to tread lightly here. I've found that most people who learn about the product are excited about it and I'm using this forum to let more people know it exists. If there's a better way I can share this message, I'm open to constructive & helpful comments.
Last edited by TheDigiSync; Jun 19, 2020 at 08:57 AM.
I have a riding buddy that has a 4 cylinder one and it's amazing! I did my Super Hawk just for S*+ts and giggles. NO pulsing, made it really easy to get a constant readings. I really liked the tach component. Makes Fuel screw idle drop procedure much easier. When I get my SS check, I'll be ordering a 2 Cylinder version. Is there a way to set the tach up for more sensitivity? It seems like the 4 Cyl. version worked well because it seems to be showing twice the RPM so a minute change is more evident. It would be sweet if it read 50RPM changes.
Is there a way to set the tach up for more sensitivity?
CaryDG, Thanks so much for the kind words!
Regarding the tach setup. Where we have it balanced now is after years of tuning/tweaking this thing to allow it to be universal to all motorcycles and a variety of cars and boats with Independent Throttle Bodies (ITBs). We could technically fine-tune it for a specific machine, but it would hurt performance on other machines and therefore would have to be a custom build. With all the engineering time involved, we'd need a LOT of demand for something like that. So, in summary, it's possible but unlikely to see it in the near future.
Will the tach work with stick coils? Using a four channel on a two cylinder engine, are the two unused lines capped?
Yes, it will work with stick coils.
When not using one or more channels, it's best to leave them open and unconnected. Capping could potentially lead to some odd results.
Yes, it will work with stick coils.
When not using one or more channels, it's best to leave them open and unconnected. Capping could potentially lead to some odd results.
xeris, The one I used appeared to get the tach reading from the vacuum pulses, not an inductive pick up from the spark leads. Kind of brilliant from an ease of use standpoint.
The rubber tubes coming out of the device, are they user replaceable?
The tool is interesting and the price point nice. But the rubber lines, a component know to degrade relatively fast in the best environments, and easily damaged in a single mistake like when the rubber tube touches a header, or is cut is a concern.
The rubber tubes coming out of the device, are they user replaceable?
Erik, yes they are. It's standard 5/32" Vacuum hose that you can find at any auto parts dealer. Just be sure to get all your hose lengths as close as possible.
xeris, The one I used appeared to get the tach reading from the vacuum pulses, not an inductive pick up from the spark leads. Kind of brilliant from an ease of use standpoint.
Yes that is brilliant.
I asked this because I have an old analog “engine analyzer” that I used when I had stock coils. Worked fine then, but not with the stick coils.
We've been selling the product since 2015 and have sold 10's of thousands across the globe and never had a single return request! Everyone who buys the product loves it.
So you have sold at least 20000 units in 4-5 years (10's means at least 2 10's) globally of a product that falls under "extremely niche" and that has strong existing competition. Mostly offline, as you have zero online exposure. AND with NO advertising- the product just sold it's self ("built the tool for ourselves and others fell in love with it. So, we built more, and more, and more...........We're advertising now for the first....").
MORE SO- out of those +20000 pcs you haven't even had ONE return!
Truly remarkable! There are so many people, me included, who would pay good money to learn what business model you're applying.
So you have sold at least 20000 units in 4-5 years (10's means at least 2 10's) globally of a product that falls under "extremely niche" and that has strong existing competition. Mostly offline, as you have zero online exposure. AND with NO advertising- the product just sold it's self ("built the tool for ourselves and others fell in love with it. So, we built more, and more, and more...........We're advertising now for the first....").
MORE SO- out of those +20000 pcs you haven't even had ONE return!
Truly remarkable! There are so many people, me included, who would pay good money to learn what business model you're applying.
Bigborer,
We started by showing the product to our friends at biker rallies. A few of those people wrote reviews on chat forums. More people bought the product. Some of those people posted YouTube videos. More people bought the product. And then this pattern continued to repeat ORGANICALLY over and over again. So, if you want to call that advertising, I suppose you got me there...
However, we had not put a single dollar of our own budget into advertising until only recently.
As a business, we took a look at things and realized people who learn about the product love it and our greatest challenge had been letting people know that the product exists. And since we've had some of our greatest sales numbers from biker forums, this is where we're starting to focus our small advertising budget.
Last edited by TheDigiSync; Jun 22, 2020 at 04:00 PM.
Erik, yes they are. It's standard 5/32" Vacuum hose that you can find at any auto parts dealer. Just be sure to get all your hose lengths as close as possible.
The tube appears to be attached inside the case and then come though the plastic case face... . Vice attached to a nipple external to the case.
Is that correct?
How does a user replace that short rubber hose when it becomes unserviceable. If you say "open the case" please tell us by what means,,Is it glued closed and you have to cut or break the glue bond, is the case closed with screws, clips, plastic one time push pins, if its uses integral locking tabs on the case halves, please tell us where they are and the best way to get them unlocked.
The tube appears to be attached inside the case and then come though the plastic case face... . Vice attached to a nipple external to the case.
Is that correct?
How does a user replace that short rubber hose when it becomes unserviceable. If you say "open the case" please tell us by what means,,Is it glued closed and you have to cut or break the glue bond, is the case closed with screws, clips, plastic one time push pins, if its uses integral locking tabs on the case halves, please tell us where they are and the best way to get them unlocked.
Thanks for the picture. That helps as I thought you were talking about the longer hoses. The short ones are standard 7/64" Vacuum hose found at most any auto parts store. We use a high-quality hose and have never had a request to replace these. If you need to replace them, you only need to undo 4 screws on the rear of the case.
I just ordered a 4 channel, I will review when it arrives but it seems like a damned good idea to me.
Ace,
That would be awesome!!!
I sent you an email. We're a couple of days behind in shipments due to the Holiday weekend. We'll ship your order first thing Monday morning.
Perfect then, I m fine with that simply fix should the lines get damaged in use or though age.
Last question and I'll drop the order.... WHile I will use this primarily on VTR's I do work on other multi cylinder models, is there any reading results degradation when say one or more channels is left unused?
So a four channel unit used on a V twin...RPM will be doubled I get but leaving the 2 channels uncapped,will that effect the readings on the two channels being used?
Or another way to put it..
If I have a 2 channel unt and a 4 channel unit hooked to a V twin will they both read the same on the vac signal?
Originally Posted by TheDigiSync
Thanks for the picture. That helps as I thought you were talking about the longer hoses. The short ones are standard 7/64" Vacuum hose found at most any auto parts store. We use a high-quality hose and have never had a request to replace these. If you need to replace them, you only need to undo 4 screws on the rear of the case.
So a four channel unit used on a V twin...RPM will be doubled I get but leaving the 2 channels uncapped,will that effect the readings on the two channels being used?
Or another way to put it..
If I have a 2 channel unt and a 4 channel unit hooked to a V twin will they both read the same on the vac signal?
That is correct. Leaving hoses disconnected WILL NOT affect the vacuum readings on the other connected channels.
Alright, it arrived in one piece as expected, here are some photos and initial impressions. I will likely use it this weekend on the V:
Small unassuming brown box that is packed appropriately. Comes with a 9v battery. Only one button to touch. Plastic but not super cheap. Very bright LED screen, very easy to read. Calibration is automatic. 1/4 turn quick connects are sufficient and easy to use. Assembly is a no brainer A couple feet of extra hose.
Got it, used it! It's an amazingly accurate device. I did a few mods to make it easier to mount for my uses. It's so accurate I can use it for Fuel Screw Idle Drop Procedures. Using vacuum hoses of different lengths varies the measurements by a couple of WC inches. I made mine equal length inclusive of the portion from the rear port to my "T" fitting. There was a slight differential (2WC") when connected to the petcock. I elected to leave it connected to the petcock as I felt that's the real world operating condition.
It's super easy to use as I don't have the "throttle" down lines to stop bouncing gauges or worry about spilling Mercury. No, I er..ah... mean colored liquid.
I you want near perfect synchronization, this is the best I've found. I got the 4 port version as I can do my SH as well as friends IL3's &4's
Last edited by CaryDG; Jul 21, 2020 at 05:57 PM.
Reason: Grammer correction
Could this indicate they are going out of business, having only the 2-channel and being out of stock of the 4 & 6-cgannel; given they expanded to a bigger manufacturing facility only 4 years ago???
I have a Twin Max (2-channel digital unit with an analog balance gauge damped by a potentiometer, and a 40+ year old 4-tube mercury manometer with hose restrictors to damp pulses that also still works great. But I want (not need) a digital 4-channel for my FJ-09 CP3 triple.
