wtb stock front calipers
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: kingsport, tn/ tri cities
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wtb stock front calipers
just let me know if you have some fairly cheap, the pistons in mine are starting to get really tight and not letting the the fluid back into the master cyl
#2
#3
Have you thought about taking them apart, cleaning the pistons with some 0000 steel wool and reassembling? I just did that to mine (my right side was dragging ever so slightly, indicated by one disc being hotter than the other after coasting to a stop) and I am stoked on the brakes again. Maybe its the HH+ green pads and braided lines or the brembo iron rotors, but stock calipers on my bike worked pretty well prior to the "reman" on the calipers, but now they are really good. It's a little work, but practically free, not counting the time involved.
#5
#9
Well, unless you have left the disc lock in them at one point or another I highly doubt they are warped... It's a lot harder to make that happen than you think... In fact I'm pretty sure you deliberately have to make an effort to accomplish it...
It's a lot more likely that you have managed to glase the surface of the discs, changing the friction of it around the full circle... That's what usually causes uneven and pulsing brakes... If the discs are still well within specs it's worth a shot at reviving them... First check that they are still thick enough, and has no excessive grooves... If that's good go over them with a fine sandpaper... Make circles along the perimeter, don't sand along the grooves... Both sides... And when you think you are done, keep going another ten hours or so... Done right you will consider chopping of your arms when you are finished... Then use brake cleener... Look at the surface, if it's uniformly matte it's good too go... If it has varying degrees of shine, you still need to keep going... Have fun...
Oh BTW... Powertools is a bad idea unless you really, really know what you are doing, it takes one second to mess the disc up so you cant fix it... Suck it up and keep those arms working...
Yes, a brake rebuild kit (or similar name) will have the seals and such that usually wear on the calipers and might benefit from replacing... It's a lot cheaper to just unbolt them, remove the pads and meticulously clean them first though... If that doesn't help a rebuild kit is the next step...
Use a brush with bronse or plastic bristles, not steel, that damages stuff and compressed air to clean the calipers... Steel wool is a bit harsh unless it's really neccessary... Make sure to get the sides of the pistons spotless... And while you are at it, check the condition of the pads and fluids... The grooves on the pads should be cleaned, and if they are worn replace them... Fluid should be clear golden, not murky or black...
It's a lot more likely that you have managed to glase the surface of the discs, changing the friction of it around the full circle... That's what usually causes uneven and pulsing brakes... If the discs are still well within specs it's worth a shot at reviving them... First check that they are still thick enough, and has no excessive grooves... If that's good go over them with a fine sandpaper... Make circles along the perimeter, don't sand along the grooves... Both sides... And when you think you are done, keep going another ten hours or so... Done right you will consider chopping of your arms when you are finished... Then use brake cleener... Look at the surface, if it's uniformly matte it's good too go... If it has varying degrees of shine, you still need to keep going... Have fun...
Oh BTW... Powertools is a bad idea unless you really, really know what you are doing, it takes one second to mess the disc up so you cant fix it... Suck it up and keep those arms working...
Yes, a brake rebuild kit (or similar name) will have the seals and such that usually wear on the calipers and might benefit from replacing... It's a lot cheaper to just unbolt them, remove the pads and meticulously clean them first though... If that doesn't help a rebuild kit is the next step...
Use a brush with bronse or plastic bristles, not steel, that damages stuff and compressed air to clean the calipers... Steel wool is a bit harsh unless it's really neccessary... Make sure to get the sides of the pistons spotless... And while you are at it, check the condition of the pads and fluids... The grooves on the pads should be cleaned, and if they are worn replace them... Fluid should be clear golden, not murky or black...
#10
+1... as much as people use the 0000 steel wood with no ill effects , your sisters toothbrush is safer to clean the sides of the pistons.. just clean the brush before putting it back.. -lol
#11
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: kingsport, tn/ tri cities
Posts: 157
and ill try the stuff you said.
no chance its the master cyl is it... i have a spare one laying here lol
#12
Simply, spray a little brake-clean onto the 0000 steel wool, put it in the palm of your hand and turn the piston sides in it until the dirt rings are removed and the brake fluid discoloration stains disappear. Easy-peasy. The seals, in most cases, can be reused.
-R
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