WANTED: Scotts Steering Stabilizer
#2
Not to start a long discussion, but if you feel the bike needs a steering damper, there is something wrong either with how you ride it, or with the setup/condition of the bike... An unmolested stock VTR is dead stable and even a bit "lazy" in the steering... To get it to be faster in the steering most people change the height of the fork... Check tires/bearings and all that... BEFORE you mount your damper, since it will mask problems to the point where you end up in a ditch...
#3
90% of the reason I want one is because there is already a mount on the bike. Obviously a PO sold it or reused it on another bike.
The 10% reason is because of a very little wobble. It doesn't occur all the time so it may even be the road I'm on. I also bumped up the rear suspension from the minimum setting to 4 notches up and although with all my gear I prob weigh about 230, it's a bit firm. Going to bring that back down.
Some people say they are running their Dunlop rear at 42. Mine is around 35 and it does have a flat spot (although only about 1200 miles are on it). I may see if a little more air may help before I start digging into the bearings since I no longer have a garage.
The 10% reason is because of a very little wobble. It doesn't occur all the time so it may even be the road I'm on. I also bumped up the rear suspension from the minimum setting to 4 notches up and although with all my gear I prob weigh about 230, it's a bit firm. Going to bring that back down.
Some people say they are running their Dunlop rear at 42. Mine is around 35 and it does have a flat spot (although only about 1200 miles are on it). I may see if a little more air may help before I start digging into the bearings since I no longer have a garage.
#4
Following Tweety's line of thought AND because the Scotts damper even used will likely be several hundred dollars, I think you should check with the PO (if possible)to find out what if anything has been done with the forks.
The OEM fork set up is arguably the weakest link in the SHawks handling; well undersprung and poorly damped. There are a number of upgrades available for the OEM forks that can be done yourself for $150 - $300 or with the assistance of others (Jamie or Greg) for ~$350.
For your weight you are likely way under sprung on the front and near ok on the back. I get that you have the scott adapter mount and you want it filled, but you will be better served making sure you are set up right first.
The OEM fork set up is arguably the weakest link in the SHawks handling; well undersprung and poorly damped. There are a number of upgrades available for the OEM forks that can be done yourself for $150 - $300 or with the assistance of others (Jamie or Greg) for ~$350.
For your weight you are likely way under sprung on the front and near ok on the back. I get that you have the scott adapter mount and you want it filled, but you will be better served making sure you are set up right first.
#5
Just took it for a ride to get it registered. I'm sure I've got the "new owner sensitivity syndrome", but it only happens when I take my hands off the bars while slowing down around 60 mph. I know, the solution is to keep my hands on
Just put 38 lbs in rear and dropped the preload 1 notch. I really hate to get involved with a head bearing replacement before I sort out the suspension. Anyone know of a good suspension shop in Orange County, CA?
Just put 38 lbs in rear and dropped the preload 1 notch. I really hate to get involved with a head bearing replacement before I sort out the suspension. Anyone know of a good suspension shop in Orange County, CA?
#6
Since this is the classifieds section and this post is turning into something more, I thought I would stop this and move the discussion over to this thread for more follow ups:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=22935
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=22935
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