How Much to Put Into the SuperChicken?
#1
How Much to Put Into the SuperChicken?
I bought this bike for $2K many years ago, but got a little loose and fast with the clutch and dumped it pretty good. I never even made it out to the highway (which is probably a good thing!). After that, I put about another $1000 or so in parts to fix her back up to look presentable, but then let the bike sit for a few years without riding due to "life".
Recently I pulled off the carbs for a thorough cleaning, and even got her running for a bit for a short ride, but now there seems to be a loud knock coming from the engine (valves, maybe?). Also, keeping the engine running without it puttering out is becoming more and more difficult.
Because of work, I have less and less time to work on the bike now. Would it be worth taking it to a bike shop to get it rideable once more, or should I call it a loss and just buy a new bike? It'd probably need a whole lot of work done (it's a 98), and I'm just trying to poll to see if the juice would be worth the squeeze. I've never truly gotten a chance to enjoy what this bike had to offer.
Recently I pulled off the carbs for a thorough cleaning, and even got her running for a bit for a short ride, but now there seems to be a loud knock coming from the engine (valves, maybe?). Also, keeping the engine running without it puttering out is becoming more and more difficult.
Because of work, I have less and less time to work on the bike now. Would it be worth taking it to a bike shop to get it rideable once more, or should I call it a loss and just buy a new bike? It'd probably need a whole lot of work done (it's a 98), and I'm just trying to poll to see if the juice would be worth the squeeze. I've never truly gotten a chance to enjoy what this bike had to offer.
#6
#7
Let me give you some perspective. I bought a Superhawk with a knock, thinking it was a CCT issue. I was wrong. It has a bad big end. I have the time to put into is an i have a place to work on it. Even so it is going to be a huge job. If you want to ride, go get yourself something to ride and part this one out to help pay for it.
Jim
Jim
#10
Let me give you some perspective. I bought a Superhawk with a knock, thinking it was a CCT issue. I was wrong. It has a bad big end. I have the time to put into is an i have a place to work on it. Even so it is going to be a huge job. If you want to ride, go get yourself something to ride and part this one out to help pay for it.
Jim
Jim
#11
I am a little unclear as to what happned to your bike originally. You said ". . . got a little loose and fast with the clutch and dumped it pretty good. I never even made it out to the highway." I am concerend because I think what knocks the rode bearings out of these bikes is miss shifts. That's a lot of rotating mass to take past red line. On mine I see no sign of oil starvation (shows up in the top end first) and what I do see looks normal for a good engine.
Last edited by Big_Jim59; 01-25-2015 at 12:29 PM.
#12
I went the full route and checked both top ends and installed the manual CCTs. I found it strange that nothing was amiss and that the timing and the tension was normal. I buttoned it up and it still made the knock. Now it's down to the crank.
I am a little unclear as to what happned to your bike originally. You said ". . . got a little loose and fast with the clutch and dumped it pretty good. I never even made it out to the highway." I am concerend because I think what knocks the rode bearings out of these bikes is miss shifts. That's a lot of rotating mass to take past red line. On mine I see no sign of oil starvation (shows up in the top end first) and what I do see looks normal for a good engine.
I am a little unclear as to what happned to your bike originally. You said ". . . got a little loose and fast with the clutch and dumped it pretty good. I never even made it out to the highway." I am concerend because I think what knocks the rode bearings out of these bikes is miss shifts. That's a lot of rotating mass to take past red line. On mine I see no sign of oil starvation (shows up in the top end first) and what I do see looks normal for a good engine.
#13
I was very inexperienced and kept stalling out at stops. One time I went well past the clutch 'friction zone', putting it up on one wheel (PO did the same thing, so maybe an issue with the clutch, but more likely we both didn't respect it enough). When the front wheel landed, I 'death wobbled' into the oncoming traffic lane and hit a stopped car. The bike suffered bent forks, destroyed fairings (of course), bent radiators, and a few other visually minor damages. It's been 'rideable' after some of the major safety issues were addressed, but it sat for a long time due to it not being my primary motorcycle. I think out of everything, the 'sitting' in storage and overall lack of TLC is what caused the most damage. The 'knock' is new after replacing the battery and cleaning the carbs, and sounds like a bolt if it was in the dryer.
#16
Zero was good enough to PM this to me, do I posted it here because he was unable. Thanks, Zero!
Originally Posted by ZERO
CALIRODAN, My "optinet" security here at work wont let me reply to your post. So I'm doing it this way. An engine wont develop a bad crankshaft sitting parked. Something happened while you had it apart, either the carbs are not correctly cleaned and the bike is knocking due to it running very lean, if at all on one cylinder.(My guess) These engines sound almost normal running on one cylinder. Or one of the tiny phillips screws from around the carb fell into the engine? If you're sure that nothing fell inside, Pull the carbs back off and clean them correctly or have them cleaned professionally. This new fuel leaves HORRIBLE crap behind when it sits around! While in there, change your spark plugs in case one is fouled. It would have been easy to foul a plug if you tried to start it before the carbs got new fuel in them. Many times a dead cylinder or a misfiring cylinder will sound like a mechanical issue. Good luck.
#17
Okay (boy, sounds are tough to describe!), I should've mentioned that the "bolt in the dryer" sound would be in a dryer full of clothes; that is, it's not a continuous "thunk"...only every few seconds. Kind of like if loose change has come loose in a full dryer load. Except it's heavier than if a coin was hitting...more like a nut or bolt, but a solid, single "thunk" or "clunk" spaced out every few seconds or so. Sorry I wasn't more specific before.
#18
That sounds like a carb slide slamming shut due to weak idle. I agree with ZERO ; look carefully for evidence of carburetors still being not clean enough, fuel contamination and spark plug issues. Also consider synchronizing the carbs again.
Last edited by CrankenFine; 01-26-2015 at 10:33 AM.
#20
That has always been my experience too. that's why I was in denial about my engines bottom end problems. It was rhythmic and regular, no rattle, just tapping.
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