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Old 12-26-2007, 05:37 AM   #1
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Heated grips

I installed my new grip heaters last night and plan to wire them in this PM after work. They went on unbelievably smooth. I am just a little unsure were the best place would be to rob the hot from.

Any tips on wiring?

BTW: You can get the grip heaters here for $22. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/prod...FamilyId=14160
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Old 12-26-2007, 05:48 AM   #2
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I had connected mine directly to the battery with an on/off switch. I used to ride as cold as 11 degrees F but now I'm chicken and only ride above 30 deg F and so I don't need the grips any longer.
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Old 12-26-2007, 09:53 AM   #3
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Thanks, mid 30's in the AM should give me a great opportunity to try them out. As long as it is not sleeting like this morning. LOL...
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:15 AM   #4
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I connected my Hot Grips to the little light above the headlight, that way if U leave them on they will turned off when U pull the key. The Hot Grips have a Hi / Lo toggle switch that I mounted on the left fairing. I've had mine for 2 years & they work very nice.
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnjhawk02 View Post
I connected my Hot Grips to the little light above the headlight, that way if U leave them on they will turned off when U pull the key. The Hot Grips have a Hi / Lo toggle switch that I mounted on the left fairing. I've had mine for 2 years & they work very nice.
I connected one of these distibution blocks (http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103229) to the battery creating 4 pos & neg circuits. For each circuit (which starts with an in-line fuse like this http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search), such as for my heated grips, I use a relay tripped by an ignitioned switched oem circuit.
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Old 12-26-2007, 12:19 PM   #6
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leave extra length on the wires. I constantly broke mine.
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Old 12-26-2007, 01:04 PM   #7
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I thought about that last night.

Thanks,
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Old 12-26-2007, 01:22 PM   #8
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anything for a fellow post whorer
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Old 12-26-2007, 10:17 PM   #9
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DONT connect directly to the battery; push starts in the cold can only lead to great unhappiness. Make sure whichever circuit you use its non essential, you dont want to blow a headlight fuse due to an abraded grip wire.
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Old 12-26-2007, 11:59 PM   #10
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I've had heated grips on my last 4 bikes and have learned a few things along the way.
Most of the grips are designed for ATV's or sleds and as such don't allow for throttle rotation leading to the eventual failure at the solder joint.
To avoid that, unsolder the wires from the throttle side heating element and resolder them so that they run the length of the element. This places the solder joints at the end of the handle bar and instead of stressing the solder joint just twists the wires.
Position the element so that the wires are at the front of the grip and run parallel to each other. This prevents an unsightly and uncomfortable bulge.
Make sure that you leave enough of a gap between the grip and the switch housing to allow the throttle to return freely.
On the left side I use a throttle tube and grip ( with the throttle cable bellcrank removed ) that is riveted to the handlebar instead of wrapping tape around the clip-on/bar. This is essentially what BMW does and ensures that both sides reach the same temperature.
Power is sourced from the running lights, whether it be the little light above the headlamp or the running lights from either turnsignal.
This provides a fused and switched power source preventing the grips from killing your battery.

Hope this helps.

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Old 12-27-2007, 05:20 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the help guys. I did not get it done but did get the front tore down a little to see what I want to do. The kids were going crazy wanting to go to Wally world to spend the Christmas cash that was burning a hole in their poor little pockets. LOL.. Probably will not get it tonight either because we are taking our 3-4th grade sunday school class out to a fun station for a late Christmas party.


Anywho: I want to mount the switch in the lower dashboard plastic tab. Should be out of the way yet still easily accessible. The grips are already mounted or I would try to resolder them. I will leave a lot of slack for the throttle movement. I am planning to grab the hot from the little top light. It is fused and easily accessible.

Thanks for everyones input.
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Old 12-27-2007, 06:53 AM   #12
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Can you post some pictures?
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Old 12-27-2007, 02:09 PM   #13
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i used a relay. wired the heater to the battery ( through the relay ) then control the relay with any switched on voltage.

if you use existing wire check the size of the wire vs. the amperage going through it. no need to burn up the harness.

tim
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:25 PM   #14
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Heated Grips

I got some heated grips from my Dad who does long distance riding (Iron Butt Association) and he included this fuse/relay kit to install mine:

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Produc...FB-4/fb-4.html

Once you wire the fuse block up and the relay to a hot/ground, I was good to go and I knew I had a fusable link and relay protecting the rest of the wiring. Now when I want to add anything, I can just wire to the fuse block. I can pull out my manual if you need a color code on a hot wire. I know the manual schematic came in handy finding the right wire. Or if you have a meter you can find one that way.

They are a great addition and I have used mine down into single digits. Just keeping the palm of my hand warm seems to make a big difference keeping my fingers warmer. That doesn't mean the tips of my fingers sometimes get cold, and I ride with one finger on the brake/clutch lever so that finger always stays cold. But it still makes a BIG difference.

I didn't solder mine but I left some slack for turning and made sure it had enough clearance. I also put on some Pro grips at the same time. I zip tied the switch to the left side of the clip on since I'm not sure where I want to permanently mount it.
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Old 12-28-2007, 04:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floppyhat View Post
Can you post some pictures?
My dashboard is different than yours. The 02 and up (I believe) use a digital dash.
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:32 AM   #16
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I did not like the way the switch looked last night so I am going to hunt a rocker type 3 way that could possibly fit in the inside fairing.
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:07 PM   #17
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Can you post a picture or two of where you mounted your switch. I'd like to keep mine out of the elements, but I don't want it to look shitty. I am also thinking of installing an adjustable rehostat to vary the temp.

Also one thing I'm not real sure about the install, is how the wires come out from the grips, or where they are run (through the bars?). Pictures and help would be appreciated. I'd like to install them before I can ride this season.
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Old 01-07-2008, 04:04 AM   #18
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I will get you some pictures soon. Tried them out this AM in upper 30's and worked good. I ended up mounting the switch on the inside fairing above the rightside radiator cap. You can only see the switch from right above the tank looking down.
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Old 01-07-2008, 05:43 PM   #19
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Here are a few pictures that I took in the garage.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Picture 012.jpg (56.1 KB, 73 views)
File Type: jpg Picture 011.jpg (52.6 KB, 62 views)
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:14 AM   #20
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Thanks for the photos....I'll have to look at mine when I get home. I didn't think I had that piece of black plastic there......Maybe I'm insane....probably
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Old 12-15-2010, 10:48 AM   #21
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And now a question from a COMPLETE ELECTRICAL LAYMAN.
I appreciate that the power can be 'spliced' into an ignition wire to save accidental battery draining in the event of the grips being left on, what I need to know before I fit mine, is how is this splicing actually done?
Is it done with posi-taps?
And what would be the best wire to actually tap into?
All help MUCH appreciated, i've bought a new grips kit and just want to be 100% sure of what i'm doing.
Cheers all, Chris.
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Old 12-15-2010, 11:14 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesey View Post
And now a question from a COMPLETE ELECTRICAL LAYMAN.
I appreciate that the power can be 'spliced' into an ignition wire to save accidental battery draining in the event of the grips being left on, what I need to know before I fit mine, is how is this splicing actually done?
Is it done with posi-taps?
And what would be the best wire to actually tap into?
All help MUCH appreciated, i've bought a new grips kit and just want to be 100% sure of what i'm doing.
Cheers all, Chris.
The instructions that came with the heated grips (mfgr/model?) should go a long way but normally you tap into a wire that only is hot when the ignition is on and run a wire from the T-tap to a relay. Then a 16 guage wire directly from the battery with an in-line fuse to the relay. Then from the output of the relay you connect to the hot wire from the heated grip loom (with it's own in-line fuse) and the loom's ground wire to the battery. Sometimes there is a ballast for the hi-low setting to deal with. All a piece of cake. The hardest part is where to mount the grip on/off/setting control (and possibly the ballast) and routing the wire from the throttle grip so it does not impede throttle action.
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Old 12-15-2010, 09:12 PM   #23
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i mounted my relay in the tail section but it could also be in the front fairing. i used the rear plate light to power the relay, if you choose the front fairing you have your choice of headlight or center light.

the grip heater should state the amp draw which will determine the wire gauge to use. iirc, i used 18 guage wire for the power and grounded it at the fan terminal.


tim

Last edited by trinc; 12-15-2010 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:06 AM   #24
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That's brilliant, thanks for your help guys.
Chris.
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:06 AM
 
 
 
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