VTR running poorly and dies. Aluminum flecks on plugs
 

Hey guys I picked up a 98 VTR for a steal. These guys couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Got it for a grand. I thought my 4 months of experience in a motorcycle shop gave me an edge on them. I was praying for a fuel line issue. But alas all the fuel lines looked to be in the proper position. So I pulled the plugs. The front one looked like it was super rich and the rear looked fine. I replaced the front plug and the plug cap. The air filter was dirty as hell so I slapped a new OEM in there. Bike runs but dies. It has a wicked knock. Won't idle unless rev'ed. I rode it up and down the street a few times to see if I could get more information from the bike. When I pulled the plugs again the rear looked as if it has aluminum flecks on the insulator. I also noticed the rear plug doesn't match the front(I replaced the front with stock the shop only had one plug). Someone put a DPR8EIX-8 plug in the rear cylinder. I know this plug is hotter then the DPR9 that is supposed to be there. I don't have a peak voltage tester. That would be my next step. Not sure how to troubleshoot the ignition system further without the voltage tester. I guess I could run it some more and check the timing but I am worried about running it anymore.
I need some suggestions if you have the time.
Thank you in advance.

Rear plug with aluminum deposits is on the right. Bike has 7k miles on it so I am hoping it isn't CCT yet.

Did you compression test?

James

Or turn the motor manually to see if you feel / hear any kind of resistance on the intake and exhaust strokes in the cylenders and listen for any sounds of scrapping as the pistons move?

Can almost be done in conjunction with the compression test.

Thanks for the replies. I pushed the bike down the street with the plugs out to listen for any odd engine sounds. It didn't knock or have any odd noises. It rolled fairly smoothly with the plugs out. I have attempted about 5 bump starts and each time the compression locked up the rear. I couldn't eek a single turnover of the engine despite running my tail off. I'll get a compression test when I take it in to the shop for the peak voltage test. Or I need to find someone local to borrow a tool or two from. Any hawk riders in Ft. Lauderdale?
Thanks again for your help gentlemen! I like this forum already.

These bikes are set up to bump but I have had it fail in both first and second gears due to the back tire locking up because the way they are set up. 3rd through 6th seem to be the ideal bump gears for my bike. 1st and 2nd result in the back tire locking up entirely.

To manually rotate the engine you need to pull the big plug out of the left side engine cover (stator), it's the big plug (22 or 24 mm I can't remember which one. Not enough coffee yet) and with the spark plugs out insert a socket into stator cover (18 mm I belive, once again not enough coffee) and turn it clockwise with the bike in neutral. Doesn't have to be fast. Listen to both cylenders and feel for any restrictions, grinding, clicking and clanking.

If you have the cam covers off you can also check the timing while doing this. With only 7k on the bike though I doubt it's cct failure but you never know.

Reminder the stator is a wet stator so you will see a few drops of oil possibly come out with the bike on its side stand. This is normal.

::edit:: have the CCTs been changed to manual yet or are they still automatic?

I have been itching to use my new timing light! I believe the CCT's are still automatic. But I will snap some more pics for you guys so you can see what you are helping me with. I'll do the crank rotation and the timing sometime tonight. I have read up a bunch on this site about CCt's so I know it must be done sooner rather then later. Again thanks for the help!! It has been an awesome introduction to this forum. Can wait to have this beast running. Even with all the issues she seems to have torque for days and that exhaust note makes my heart happy.

I just realized my TPS tells the CDI when to spark. So that could be my whole problem right there. Time to drill out that TPS housing. You guys think I am on the right trail here? The TPS is notoriously off on these bikes I gather from the posts here. Any way to quick test it before diving into the full reset? After checking the engine and the timing of course. I am so excited to ride this thing I ain't thinking straight.

Leave the TPS until you've covered the fundamentals. i.e. CCT failure, vacuum hose etc.

How bad is it knocking?

That sounds like a compression leak not a knock... Anyone else have an opinion?

+1

That's a small picture. What are you showing us? I see the side of your bike and a multimeter.