Valve clearances clarification
#1
Valve clearances clarification
I checked my valves and I can get a 0.013" feeler gauge in two of them and a 0.014 gauge barely in one exhaust. Do I need to adjust all three exhausts? The specs are 0.012+/ 0.001 ". Does that mean if I can get a 0.013 feeler gauge in I'm okay or does it mean it is over? The rear cylinder has the 0.014 exhaust so I'll do that one for sure. The other two are in the front cylinder. All the intakes clearances were correct.
Another question: Does the stock voltage rectifier have fins?
Rode my Superhawk the other day and it was 104 degrees outside, didn't even get hot, even in traffic. The temp gauge was below 1/2 until I stopped. The fan didn't even come on until it sat a couple of minutes idling. I was quite surprised. Too hot for me to ride.
Another question: Does the stock voltage rectifier have fins?
Rode my Superhawk the other day and it was 104 degrees outside, didn't even get hot, even in traffic. The temp gauge was below 1/2 until I stopped. The fan didn't even come on until it sat a couple of minutes idling. I was quite surprised. Too hot for me to ride.
#3
I recently adjusted my valves (at 30,000 miles). Just like yours all the intakes were spot on. Rear exhausts were .013 and .014. Front cylinder was the exact same. I adjusted all of them down to .011. The ones at .013 didn't worry me too much but the cams over them had to come out anyway. If it wasn't for that I probably would have let them go for a while longer.
#5
I guess I'll do the rear now, once I find a micrometer. Or I guess I can just take the shim down and order the next larger shim size, assuming they have a micrometer at the dealer. The fronts will be my winter project and I'll do the CCTs too. Does the bike run any different after an adjustment? I heard you need to carb sync after a valve adjustment. Does 0.001 or 0.002" make that much of a difference in air flow?
#7
Sorry if this is a dumb question but what would cause the valve clearance to open up? Wouldn't it tend to close up as the valve recessed in it's seat? I measured mine today and the intakes were all dead on or on the tight side of spec, same with the rear exhaust but the front exhaust were tight. The bikes got 15,000 on it and I doubt it's ever had an adjustment. Is there a stock thickness I can depend on these shims being or do I need to remove them and to calculate the size of my new shims. I would like to have the new ones in hand before removing the old ones as I have a nasty habit of losing things.
#8
You need to remove them and calculate the size of the new shim that will give the correct clearance. The lifters come out too, obviously, and they're big, shiny and hard to lose. Once the old shims are out, read the numbers on them if you can (sometimes the numbers are faint) or measure them and write it down. It doesn't matter so much then if you lose one. Just don't lose them down the cam chain tunnel.
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