Recently, I had a difficult time starting my Hawk. I would have to baby-sit her by giving it some throttle, what the manual says not to do, until properly warmed. A pain for first ride, and after letting her sit while running around the state!

This week, things got progressively worse, and the engine began to cut-off during deceleration, and whenever I came to a full stop! Time to go to the forum for some research.

Start with R/R, spark plugs, battery, electrical system, and fluids. Check, everything is working fine. Move back to forum, and come across 2012 thread with 7Moore7 giving Bzera some advice about the Idle Speed Screw. What? Move to manual, and learn that my Throttle Stop Screw is nearly all the way decreased. I increase the Idle to 1500 rpm's, manual suggests 1200, +-100 but this is what works best for me! Tweaked over several days. Problem solved, and the Hawk is running like new, and idling on its own when starting. Also ready to roll in minutes.

Note: When adjusting, after engine gets hot it is very difficult to adjust because space to grab is limited, and tools do not fit around screw very well. Try to adjust just after starting and running for a few minutes. I learn something new about the Hawk every week! Hope this helps someone else and diagram is attached.

 

I find it easiest to adjust while I am sitting on the bike.

Reaching from above this way, I touch the hot engine case less. Also having my riding glove on makes for additional insulation and better grip on the idle screw.

 

You may find a 1500rpm idle to make the bike run hotter than it should. Honda in their engineering wisdom did not just grab the idle speed out of their collective butt.

If it wont run at 1200 you probly need a carb cleaning to fix it. Jacking the idle up is only putting a sort of band aid on it, but not fixing the issue.

 

You will want to balance your carbs as well.

 

+1
As well as adjusting the tps.

 

Appreciate all the advice. Hopefully others can learn as well.