Switching to Rotella T6
 

Hey guys, I'm in need of an oil change soon and want the best bang for my buck when choosing oils. I decided on Rosella and came across a few posts saying they ran 5w -40 or 15w -40. I live in Florida, so would it be best to go with the 15w-40 since we never see low temperatures?

I've run 15w40 Rotella in Arizona. It gets down to 30*F a couple of times a year here and it was fine. FWIW I ran it a few times and am convinced that it works great, but I do like the feel of a motorcycle synthetic like Mobile1 better. Could be just a placebo, but if that's what it takes then I'll pay for placebo ;)

I run the T6 15-40 here in East Texas with no problems. For me as long as it's full synthetic I'm good. Have a hard time feeling difference between syns but can feel the difference with a dino oil.

I appreciate the input, guys. I will go with the 15W-40 :)

I run Rotella T 15/40 in everything I own. I honestly thought it made a difference in my SH.

This is my first time changing it on my Hawk. The previous owner put in Mobil 1 before selling it. I'm not sure if I will be able to notice much of a change with Rotella...

I noticed a pretty significant change in shifting. I always had a hard time shifting into second. It seems like the Rotella helped quite a bit. Could be all in my head though lol

Shifting is where I noticed it too, although the other way around (Rotella wasn't quite as smooth as Mobile1). Mind you, new oil will feel better shifting than old, which I think is the main point. Try it, and if you like it you've just halved your oil change cost.

Either way, I think Rotella is the best on the market, not to mention the cheapest. Wal Mart has the best prices around here for Rotella.

I too have the hardest time with second gear. It just tends to slip back to neutral if I don't kick the shifter up. Is this typical of the Superhawk?

Thumbs up on the rotella. All I use now, based on price/value ratio.

If I may offer another positive info to the thread -Rotella oil is one of the last oils on the market that is based on Zinc in the formula. Which is a real benefit to engine bearings.

One thing to keep in mind is that the T6 (synth) is more prone to shearing (ie.viscocity loss) than is the mineral T3. If using T6, do not extend your oïl change interval too long. Truthfully, unless you ride in cold temps, the T3 has proven to be more stout (retains its viscocity longer) while offering excellent protection, all the while costing less. Check the BITOG site if you need proof.......

I think it is typical. I have read a couple threads about this issue. When I tried to gently slip it into gear it would get stuck in neutral. The oil helped but I also started to shift faster at a higher RPM and it's a lot better. I think they make a shift kit that helps this issue. new2thehawk had one for sale.

only thing that is going to fix first to second is the shift kit.

And it really does not "fix" it, the Honda transmission is still clunky even after the shift kit install, better shifter, and great oil.. Better for sure, but still not great.

A riding buddy and I both tried the Rotella T6 5-40 Synthetic years ago in our '02 FZ-1's. By the 1,000 mile mark the shifting had become noticeably notchy on both of our bikes. When we drained the hot T6 it came out with all the apparent viscosity of water. The T6 is a Group III synthetic (dino base), not a real Group IV (man-made base stock). While many in the motorcycling community rave about the T-6 I'm not a fan. Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage Synthetic in the majority of my bikes or Mobil 1 15-50 in my '06 Brutale 910R,'07 Tuono, and '08 SuperDuke. I believe these two Mobil oils are also Group III base stocks too.

I use rotella. Love it. I also do 2k oil changes. The shifting sucks so train yourself to do a firm, complete, and deliberate shift to 2nd. Dont limp dick it into gear, you are being to gentle. It dosent bother me much now adays.

Another Rotella user here. I've tried both t3 & t6. I like how easily the synthetic version flows but shifting feels a touch smoother with the T3. Oil is something most moto guys over think. There's only a few things that are really 'wrong'(friction modifiers in some auto oils). I've run regular 10/40 auto oil on another bike for years with no issues. Going too heavy is worse than erring toward the lighter side (poor protection/flow @ startup).