I did some searching to no avail...

My left signal's have about a 3-5 second delay bebore they light. They will then flash at a nominal rate. The right hand side flashes just fine. Any ideas?

 

You may want to check that the bulbs are the correct ones for the bike (check part # between right and left sides of bike or compare with owners/service manual for correct #), some bulbs look the same but have different electrical characteristics. Also make sure all the bulbs light - even the small indicator light being out can cause a difference in flash rate.

One other other possibilty is a poor connection or corrosion at a connector somewhere. Flasher itself should be OK since the right side is fine. Hope this helps.

 

I had started to suspect the bulb it self... but thought it would hinder the whole system... but since I know squat about electrics and even less about the wiring on this bike, I'll start there. It is easy, and cheap if the bulbs don't match.

 

I concurr. Bulbs are cheap and easy to replace. I'd start there before digging into the wiring.

 

I'd check the bulbs on that side first. Next, spray a shot of wd40 in the switch gear. If by chance it's the switch, take it apart and use dielectric grease on it. It sounds like corrosion somewhere. I would think the flasher relay would fail on both sides.

 

Don't use WD-40. Go to an auto parts store and get a can of electrical contact cleaner. The WD-40 will leave a film that is non-conductive. The stuff is kerosene based too, so I wouldn't want it around electrical connections anyway.

I just got done looking at the electrical schematic for the S'Hawk. Both sides use the same flasher relay but different wiring through the switch. The switch has several contacts. First, it activates the relay, which switches on and off based on current load. I believe stock is 2 - 23W bulbs for a normal flash rate. Less current = faster flash rate, and vice versa. So anyway, the signal from the relay goes back through the switch and out to whichever signals are selected. So it's definitely NOT the relay, otherwise it'd be doing this for both signals. I think you have a spider (ask me about the Katana that wouldn't start sometime) or some gunk or some other crap inside your switch which is delaying the contacts from mating. Now, I've taken these switches apart before and you might want to take a digital pic of it before you start removing screws. They can be a PITA to get back together because there are springs and a little steel ball bearing in there as well as the contacts and such. I guess first you could try just the contact cleaner, but ultimately you really need to get in there and clean out all the 5 year old grease and grime out. Get some dielectric grease for reassembly. This is a 30 minute job if you know what you're doing. Also, get a screwdriver that fits really well when you go to take the switch off the clip-on. They are REALLY tight from the factory and can be stripped easily. You might even want to try tapping the end of the screwdriver with a small hammer whilst loosening the screw - like an impact driver of sorts. Remember, take it apart slowly and remember how things go back together. The assembly requires some dexterity and thick fingers need not apply here.

PS If you want the wiring diagram I'll have to email it to you. It's too large to upload to the forum.

 

Aha! I uploaded the file to my gallery. Here's the shortcut:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/galle...ze/big/cat/500
The flasher is on the top right. The switch is on the bottom left.

 

Hawkrider,

Dude, thhe wealth of info is appreciated. I forgot to mention, that the cooler it is outside, the slower it is to react. It was a 103 here yesterday, and signals worked great...but my brain was a bit warm. Well, I have some things to get checking into, so I will keep ya'll posted. I've got run out and go pick up the better half's new bike, I'll get to this issue a bit later...

BTW: I agree, W40 is a temp fix, the electrical contact cleaner works wonders for gooped up connections and sensors (especially on cars with high miles).

 

Then I may be right that the grease is old and the colder it is, the thicker it gets, and the longer it takes for the contacts to mate.

 

***ARISE YE OLDE THREAD AS YOU HAVE BEEN RESURRECTED***
so yeah the search function works on these forums and instead of making another "hey my such and such is doing this" thread, I hit the shiny search button. novel idea.
i have had the same problem as the original poster but mine is on the right side. now my right blinkers dont work at all. so if i am correct in my assumptions, remove and disassemble the control, spray with contact spray, and use dielectric (sp?) grease? what exactly do i do with the grease?

 

Put the grease on all parts that move. Some on the contacts to prevent corrosion too, but don't overdo it.

 

used the contact spray i bought while the controls were still on the clipon , and the blinkers work again, but the switch is a little more stiff. i also bought the grease at the same time. just haven't used it yet. my philosophy of it aint broke dont fix it somewhat applies.