Well... yeah, if it doesn't turn that way, it's likely to be fried as well... But it's really not smart testing things like that willy-nilly, as it is entirely possible it wasn't when you started "testing" it... There's a reason for the fuse and diode...

OK,, your saying..
12+ volts and 30 or more amps (car battery with enough juice to start the car) connected directly to both the starter (Ground) and the starter positive terminal does not result in the starter spinning at a normal to very fast speed?


Starters are not known issues on the VTR, but it is an electromechanical assembly and as such capable of failing in a number of ways.

Yeah... And a not so short "burst" of testing, bypassing the fuse is unfortunately one of the more common one's... Seen it done more than once, a couple where I'm fairly certain it was good before the testing occured...

Its ABOUT TIME someone said willy nilly around here. Finally the situation called for it and who else but tweety stepped up to say it.

But seriously. Always fun when the cure is worse than the disease. Limey, put a new full charged battery in it and then see what happens. Get the cheapest walmart one you can just in case you kill it.

At least you didnt connect a 220 line to the starter. (you didnt right?).

It may still be ok but hard to say what else is collateral damage.

not sure where the talk of car batteries comes from but i never used one.
willy nilly is a nice expression, not so when the servce manual from hnda tells me in the trouble shooting section to connect from battery to starter direct to test it. i told you i am incompetent, just following instructions. i know i need help and that is why i came to you.
should i wait for the new rnr before killing another battery?

Limey, why must you turn this forum into a den of lies. If you used your school bus to jump the bike just admit it. (lol)

No, you dont even know if the rr is bad til you get the bike running, which you cant do w/o the battery. Putting a good solid charged battery in is the only way to test it. Once its running test the voltage across the battery & compare to the battery before it was running. (oh yeah check that first.)

It should be obviously charging when running, but not like 17 volts, just like 13-14ish. Ever since my debacle like this I have a digital voltmeter on my dash so it will warn of impending doom.

Oh yeah, you should change your forum name to willy nilly.(OMHO)

Well... I gave two examples of what can kill the battery, amongst others... One apparently did not apply to you...

The reason I adviced against testing other things NOW, is that the first thing you do when you have a known and diagnosed issue, like a dead battery, is to fix that issue, and then diagnose from that point, concentrating on the things that could have caused that, as trying to find and fix other issues becomes a lot easier once it's not affected by other things... That's a good way to gain proficiency...

And yes, it's known and common way to test the starter, but it's also a very common way to kill it... Which is why it would be a better idea to fix the known issue, and then push the starter and "test" it by appying power through the fuse... It tests it just fine, and is very unlikely to damage it...

Boy, it's a good thing you guys weren't around when I was 18 or else I might not have gotten into motorcycling. My first bike was a 1985 VF1000R - 120hp and 600lb - and makes the VTR seem tame in comparison. I'm still alive.

The boy sounds smart, I'm not sure why we can't just be happy for the guy and give him a hand. I think you guys scared him off anyway.

ok , battery first , rnr is coming as peaple say its a common failing. i promise not to fry anything else until then. bear with me, i will get there (as i told my fourth grade teacher last week).
while we are all here i got some more questions, first, what is a clutch diode and what is its purpose?
second, joe, what does OMHO mean?
signed willy nilly

OMHO= Obey My Humble Opinion :evillaugh:


Clutch Diode.. I assume is referring to the clutch interlock.. ie the system that helps you from looking stupid ...starting the bike with it in gear and clutch NOT pulled in.

Oh yeah I meant IMHO in my humble opinion. Although "obey" was a funny interpretation.

These guys have a lot of experience and knowledge and I (we all should) respect that. However the SH is my first bike too, and yes it's a lot. The key, as some said, is to respect the power. No matter what bike you have, anyone can still go fast and ride recklessly and have the 'worst' happen. Just remem it's a lot of power even with just a twist of the wrist and understand that. Don't go more than you're ready for and educate and drill yourself to avoid the whiskey throttle. Learn your bike well and grow into it. You have it NOW, so just ride in a limited fashion for a while. As for your problems with it, once it gets worked out its a very good bike and I love mine and ride as often as I can. Besides, it's a Honda, and Honda makes good stuff overall. And I agree, take a riders course if you haven't already and that should help educate you a bit. But only time and practice will get you the experience.

back again, got a new battery and the bike fired up like a dream. thank you all, even if you did take the piss!
being a bit of a bone head i just dont understand how a battery showing good voltage can cause such a drastic failure. (but i am sure someone will tell me)
but back to business, battery showing 12.3 volts. idling i get 12.2. at 3,000rpm its 13.2. how about that? i got the new rectifier but its not on yet.

Something still not right...

Your looking for 13.5-14.5V from a healthy R/R, newish thyristor based R/R or most any MOSFET type.

Where are you reading the voltage while running. I get the 13.5-14.5. But did you fully charge the battery or take the word of clyde at the shop that it comes "fully charged".

If the RR is stock & unfinned, you should replace it pre-emptively since when this one craps out it will take your new battery to the netherworld with it.

I am totally against un-needed changing of stuff (like clutches) but in this case, you should just change it. You can get some great wiring kits from eastern beaver.

Here Connectors

He is getting the same kind of voltages as I do. I've not had one single problem with a conventional or Lithium battery. I've always considered anything over 13V ok.

He's using the old R/R. Put the new one in and see what it reads at.

12.7volts, idling is 12.6 at 3000rpm is 13.7. thats with the new rectifier. got it all back together but the weather is crap so not been out yet. thats crap for a fair weather florida rider. my sub zero, rain and /or snow riding days are over.

That sounds ok to me.

Limey my bike would just shut off when I would put it in gear not the lights. I just took a gander at the kickstand sensor and it was all gunked up so i sprayed engine cleaner on it and it stopped after that.

I just sprayed engine cleaner on the sensor and it work perfectly after that and I got tired of posting on here just to have people b#tch at me for owning a bike that could kill me just as easily as any of them. But yes this whole summer I've been ripping it and loving every minute of it. Tires were brand new when i bought it and i had to replace both of them just the other day. put about 5000 miles on it already. Best investment I've ever made.

Mark, Don't let the grumpy old men get you down about this forum. I too am a "young punk" 18 y/o on a SH and love every minute of it. Good on you for doing your own work too, I have yet to take my bike to the shop (aside from school shop for body work which some buddies and I did). There is a lot of great info on here and a wealth of knowledge. And to those with more life experience than us, I say grumpy with the utmost respect and old as a sign of endearment :p

I like cake!! :rolleyes:




Oh sorry, I thought we were all having a discussion about things that didn't help this kid get his bike running.

My Suzuki recently did the same thing- all power until I hit the starter and then it went dead. Turned out to be a faulty battery connection. I had that happen many years ago on a Honda, and the battery terminal itself was actually cracked.

I'd bet money that your problem is in the battery box.

He's already fixed the problem. It was a bad connection in the kick stand switch.

can I have the 20 min back that I just used up reading this glad you got your bike running ride hard ride safe have fun

I know this is an old conversation, but I'm gonna chime in, my bird bike was my 1st street bike ever, and has a 100cc dirt bike for few months on high school. When i first bought and rode my bike, I was pretty terrified my first time on the highway [I-45 North] Houston TX heading out of downtown. Barely went 65 mph, after reading many of these beforehand and simply taking heed, I bought it anyway. So of course I respected it. Noticed the biker jacket I was wearing caused a lot of drag and windy riding was scary. But after a few days, then a few weeks my confidence rode as did skill and of course experience. I learn fast. Eventually started racing and being crazy, why, bc its just who I am. I am who I am, it is what it is. Soon I couldn't stay under 100mph. And soon consistently topping it out on Hardy Toll road bc there no traffic for long stretches. Eventually after a year racing and beating more experienced and many year veterans on the curves and roads. Sure, I've been quite reckless, but in the end, it was a 20 mph accident that kept me off for 4 years bc shome chump kid without a drivers license decided to go from a red light dead stop to all of a sudden pull into service station across a lane to get smokes. Cut me off before I could react and my bike been out of commission ever since. Literally just now repairing it to ride again bc I simply miss it. Plz dont hex me and suggest it was a warning. Just accept my point that just bc its someone's 1st bike doesnt mean they cant respect it and learn it to be fully capable of riding adequately. Anyone can get into a deadly accident at highway speeds on any bike. Its throttle control that is the key.
Just like school when I bought my Mustang 5.0, my mom nearly had a fit. Told her I could speed in any car, wreck and die in any car, just the Mustang I can get there a little faster hahahaa, yes true. Good riding to all, and be lucky!!

57 posts/replies to one question with one solution. Just sayin'. I'll join in and make this a #58

Let's get to the meat and potatoes. Just what are you saying? OP got his bike fixed with the help of the replies. Why are you posting?

What an interesting thread....I have to go back and remember my days, when I was 17 years of age. I have just turned 58, and last year purchased two Honda VTR 1000, one for the track, the other for the road. I have had a few bikes starting with an RD 200 at that "Invincible age" and it was the "Bike". I also had a Suzuki 500 Gama in the US...sneaked it across Canada, and that was the most crashed bike in Canada at the time. To get to my point, the Gama was very unpredictable machine, the power would come on at the most precarious time....you snap open the throttle....and wait...and wait...then...BANG...your wheel is in the air when you least expect it. The VTR is sort of like this...without the delay. I have a 2011 Triumph Speed Triple (which I am selling) and it will bring the wheel up, but around 40 mph, when you do snap the throttle, but it is predictable. The VTR...well..when I went down to purchase the bike, I took it for a ride just to see if it was in good running order....and it certainly was. I did a U turn to go back to the bike owners house and thought to myself...how does this accelerate when I "Snap the Throttle" open. I was expecting a little pause from the carbs....but OH NO.!!... I am looking at the white clouds and hanging on for dear life. (If you were watching, it looked good). I do not like doing wheelies especially when I least expect it and at my age. This is what this motorcycle is all about.! Be careful with this Unit and respect what it can do to throw you Off it's original path....literally. No more Lectures....have fun.