larger piston on the clutch master cylinder
Thread Starter
Mad Max NO Squid!
Squid
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 54
From: Honolulu, Hawaii, 96789
larger piston on the clutch master cylinder
i would like to decrease the throw necessary to disengage the clutch.
would there be any negative effects to using an oversize clutch master cylinder? too much fluid? too much travel?
maybe this is a bit eccentric but i think it would be somewhat convent and quicker to shift.
has any one tried it?
would there be any negative effects to using an oversize clutch master cylinder? too much fluid? too much travel?
maybe this is a bit eccentric but i think it would be somewhat convent and quicker to shift.
has any one tried it?
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Seroiusly if the clutch is bled as it should and working fine it engages/disenagages at the outer point of the handle ie very short actual throw needed... Infact the most common question is "how to increase the throw"...
Either you and me are talking about the same thing using upside down terminology, or something is wrong with your clutch...
Increasing the size of the clutch master makes the fluid increase for the movement, ie even shorter movement... considering how short the stock is when working properly I doubt that's a good idea...
I'd suggest you start by re-bleeding your clutch... First to check is the banjobolt on the master (lots, lots of rags around to keep spills of the paint...)
Either you and me are talking about the same thing using upside down terminology, or something is wrong with your clutch...
Increasing the size of the clutch master makes the fluid increase for the movement, ie even shorter movement... considering how short the stock is when working properly I doubt that's a good idea...
I'd suggest you start by re-bleeding your clutch... First to check is the banjobolt on the master (lots, lots of rags around to keep spills of the paint...)
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 380
From: Warrenton Virginia
I'm with tweety, mine is fully disengaged (no power to wheel) at less than 2 cm from full out. If bleeding doesn't do it, and I'm pretty sure it will if done right, then you might try rebuilding your master cylinder. Put in new rubber and hone and polish the bore slightly.
Thread Starter
Mad Max NO Squid!
Squid
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 54
From: Honolulu, Hawaii, 96789
my clutch works
my clutch works!
i just think it is excessive travel to get it fully disengaged.
just bled it yesterday
i think there is a risk of over extending the piston.
i guess i as curious if it was safe to do.
no big deal
i would like to reduce the lever throw to fully disengage.
i just think it is excessive travel to get it fully disengaged.
just bled it yesterday
i think there is a risk of over extending the piston.
i guess i as curious if it was safe to do.
no big deal
i would like to reduce the lever throw to fully disengage.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 380
From: Warrenton Virginia
Just noticed your in Hawaii, it's pretty humid there right? Brake fluid is hygroscopic, you should use a new bottle everytime and avoid humid days to even open the reservoir if you can. If you were getting the full mechanical advantage the system has the clutch would disengage in a very short distance. Since it's not that means either there is a leak somewhere, flex in the line, compression of the fluid. The most likely cause is fluid (air and water being fluids) compression. Bleed it properly ride it for a week and bleed it again. It could also be a leak or the master cylinders tiny holes to the resevoir could be clogged.
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JayBird217
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