HID voltage draw?
04-12-2010, 02:19 PM
#1
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
HID voltage draw?
ok heres the situation, my battery was saved from being sent back it held a charge and looked good on the load tester. but when i run the bike with the headlight off and the leds and angle eye on im seeing 14.8v. with the hid on and fully powered up im seeing 13.1v as a low, goes to 13.2v aswell. so does this seem low to anyone? better yet can someone with an hid check their voltage with the bike on and let me know what its showing so i can compare please and if need be start eliminating problems. thanks
04-12-2010, 03:18 PM
#2
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
How about we keep this dicussion in one thread? I have replied in the other one, where we started...
BTW So far if your HID draws any voltage it's the first in history to do so... Something draws this and that many AMPS and needs this and that many volts... But nothing ever draws volts...
A drop in voltage occurs from two things... Either bad wiring or a load that is larger than the charging system can supply...
And hence unless they have the exact same HID setup on their bike with the exact same total load, comparing voltage drop to get anything meaningful out of it is like comparing the color of the bike to determine who is fastest...
BTW So far if your HID draws any voltage it's the first in history to do so... Something draws this and that many AMPS and needs this and that many volts... But nothing ever draws volts...
A drop in voltage occurs from two things... Either bad wiring or a load that is larger than the charging system can supply...
And hence unless they have the exact same HID setup on their bike with the exact same total load, comparing voltage drop to get anything meaningful out of it is like comparing the color of the bike to determine who is fastest...
04-12-2010, 04:45 PM
#4
COBB Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NorthEast Connecticut
Posts: 292
And hence unless they have the exact same HID setup on their bike with the exact same total load, comparing voltage drop to get anything meaningful out of it is like comparing the color of the bike to determine who is fastest...
__________________
Yeah! Which we all know is Red.
__________________
Yeah! Which we all know is Red.
04-12-2010, 04:53 PM
#5
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
And hence unless they have the exact same HID setup on their bike with the exact same total load, comparing voltage drop to get anything meaningful out of it is like comparing the color of the bike to determine who is fastest...
__________________
Yeah! Which we all know is Red.
__________________
Yeah! Which we all know is Red.
04-12-2010, 06:42 PM
#7
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
alright makes sense. right now the hid runs directly off the factory wiring but im gonna put it through a relay again i think just need to get around to doing it. also tomorrow im going to plug in my old bulb and bypass the hid crap and see if the draw is the same or not with the halogen bulb. i still need to go through the wiring im gonna check my grounds tomorrow, today was just a little too busy for me. so tweety does your offer still stand? you come by and i supply pizza and beer? ill even throw in some wings 
04-12-2010, 09:13 PM
#9
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
alright thanks for looking into it, appreciate it. im gonna double check the wiring on it and run a relay and also talk to my buddy who sells the kits about replacing the ballast for me, maybe itll help, who knows. thanks again
04-13-2010, 03:01 AM
#10
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NY State
Posts: 667
Ohms Law (IIRC):
Power (P-Watts) = Amps (I-Current) * Voltage (E-Electricity): [P=IE]
Voltage is constant, so as the Power requirement increases, so must the Amps
If no more Amps are available, insufficient Power will be available.
Voltage = Current * Resistance (R): [E=IR]
In this case, current is constant (you get what is available), if there is a voltage drop, you have additional resistance in the circuit.
Therefore P=I^2 * R, as R increases, P decreases.
If you have dull lights, you have: insufficient current, or increased resistance, or both.
Do I really understand this - no, this is what I rememeber from my high school electronics class. The teacher was a real ***** BTW, I still hate him.
JB
Power (P-Watts) = Amps (I-Current) * Voltage (E-Electricity): [P=IE]
Voltage is constant, so as the Power requirement increases, so must the Amps
If no more Amps are available, insufficient Power will be available.
Voltage = Current * Resistance (R): [E=IR]
In this case, current is constant (you get what is available), if there is a voltage drop, you have additional resistance in the circuit.
Therefore P=I^2 * R, as R increases, P decreases.
If you have dull lights, you have: insufficient current, or increased resistance, or both.
Do I really understand this - no, this is what I rememeber from my high school electronics class. The teacher was a real ***** BTW, I still hate him.
JB
04-13-2010, 04:08 AM
#11
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Ok...Since you guys keep taking about voltage this and voltage that and obviously have no clue... No offence guys, but sorry, you really, really are lost with the comparasions you are doing... So where having electronics class today...
Starting with voltage... There are a few things you need to know to even begin to compare voltage... One part is that you need to know the battery voltage...
This is measured over the battery terminals NOWHERE ELSE... This is your reference... This should be with a good battery, fully charged around 13V or perhaps a bit higher... If it drops below 12V the battery isn't feeling good...
The other thing yoy need to know is the charging voltage of you bike without a load... Ie nothing running except the engine... (As in yank the cables, measure and then put the bike back together) And then you need charging voltage at full load, everything running... What you know now is the upper and lower regulation points of the R/R... Nothing else...
Now once you have this, you need voltage at ever load point... Ie the voltage at the connection point for the HID ballast and so on...
IF and I say IF... If the voltage here is lower than the battery voltage then you have a voltage drop... (with stock wiring most of you will have avoltage drop at the headlight regardless of HID or stock H4 bulb... )
Measuring the difference between HID on and HID off is pointless in the extreme... All you are doing is measuring the working of the R/R... It will have two cutoff points, high and low and in between will be what it puts out depening on load... Like I said in another post, a good R/R will keep voltage between 13.5-14.5V while running... That's enough to charge the battery and keep every component happy... Higher and stuff starts to fail, lower and stuff like the headlight goes dim...
And as spadle already noted there is an inverse relation between RPM and voltage... The more revs, the tighter the controll of the R/R since otherwise things can fail... At idle most R/R's fluctuate quite a bit...
Now... Main point... What you are comparing when doing your little voltage measurements? Absolutely nothing... You could for all the charging system care take a reading and announce that the bike is red... It's the same accuracy...
If you want to measure voltage drop, measure between battery voltage and a point in your system (HID ballast) and you are actually accomplishing something...
Starting with voltage... There are a few things you need to know to even begin to compare voltage... One part is that you need to know the battery voltage...
This is measured over the battery terminals NOWHERE ELSE... This is your reference... This should be with a good battery, fully charged around 13V or perhaps a bit higher... If it drops below 12V the battery isn't feeling good...
The other thing yoy need to know is the charging voltage of you bike without a load... Ie nothing running except the engine... (As in yank the cables, measure and then put the bike back together) And then you need charging voltage at full load, everything running... What you know now is the upper and lower regulation points of the R/R... Nothing else...
Now once you have this, you need voltage at ever load point... Ie the voltage at the connection point for the HID ballast and so on...
IF and I say IF... If the voltage here is lower than the battery voltage then you have a voltage drop... (with stock wiring most of you will have avoltage drop at the headlight regardless of HID or stock H4 bulb... )
Measuring the difference between HID on and HID off is pointless in the extreme... All you are doing is measuring the working of the R/R... It will have two cutoff points, high and low and in between will be what it puts out depening on load... Like I said in another post, a good R/R will keep voltage between 13.5-14.5V while running... That's enough to charge the battery and keep every component happy... Higher and stuff starts to fail, lower and stuff like the headlight goes dim...
And as spadle already noted there is an inverse relation between RPM and voltage... The more revs, the tighter the controll of the R/R since otherwise things can fail... At idle most R/R's fluctuate quite a bit...
Now... Main point... What you are comparing when doing your little voltage measurements? Absolutely nothing... You could for all the charging system care take a reading and announce that the bike is red... It's the same accuracy...
If you want to measure voltage drop, measure between battery voltage and a point in your system (HID ballast) and you are actually accomplishing something...
04-13-2010, 04:24 AM
#12
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Another common misconception is Ampere... People talk about a battery being this and that many Ampere and this and that many Volts... That's so off the mark it's not even funny...
The battery has a resting voltage and a loaded voltage, the loaded voltage drops a bit, but goes right back up when you disconnect the load... When it's discharged the loaded voltage starts dropping and the unloaded voltage follows it down... Ampere is for how long you can get that voltage out of the battery, nothing else...
People frequently ask "IF I put a 12Ah battery in my bike instead of a 10Ah battery, can I hurt my bike?"
The answer has always been, and will always be, NO... the battery isn't "putting out" x Ampere or Ampere Hours... It has x available...
A battery is rated as 12V/10Ah/180CCA... That means it's meant for a 12V system (12V at rest, ~14V when running) The amount of energy in it is either 1A (at 12V) for ten hours OR 2A (at 12V) for 5 hours... And so on, you get the point... 180CCA means the highest Ampere load the battery can supply for a very short period...
Another anology to understand why Ampere will never hurt the bike in that way... If uchi has been to the gym, and gotten really big muscles, he can torque the bolts on his bike to say 200Nm (of the scale on most torque wrenches)... It does not mean the he neccesarily uses all that strength all the time does it? Then he's going to overtorque every bolt, break peoples hands, rip off doorhandles and so on... But he is capable of doing it if required... Ampere works the same way...
The battery has a resting voltage and a loaded voltage, the loaded voltage drops a bit, but goes right back up when you disconnect the load... When it's discharged the loaded voltage starts dropping and the unloaded voltage follows it down... Ampere is for how long you can get that voltage out of the battery, nothing else...
People frequently ask "IF I put a 12Ah battery in my bike instead of a 10Ah battery, can I hurt my bike?"
The answer has always been, and will always be, NO... the battery isn't "putting out" x Ampere or Ampere Hours... It has x available...
A battery is rated as 12V/10Ah/180CCA... That means it's meant for a 12V system (12V at rest, ~14V when running) The amount of energy in it is either 1A (at 12V) for ten hours OR 2A (at 12V) for 5 hours... And so on, you get the point... 180CCA means the highest Ampere load the battery can supply for a very short period...
Another anology to understand why Ampere will never hurt the bike in that way... If uchi has been to the gym, and gotten really big muscles, he can torque the bolts on his bike to say 200Nm (of the scale on most torque wrenches)... It does not mean the he neccesarily uses all that strength all the time does it? Then he's going to overtorque every bolt, break peoples hands, rip off doorhandles and so on... But he is capable of doing it if required... Ampere works the same way...
04-13-2010, 04:31 AM
#14
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
I just woke up so please bare with my early morning higher than normal level of incompitance. Lol. Basically what your saying is I shouldn't worry about the voltage dropping with the hid on? And as long as its withjin the safety parameters its fine. From what I read in another thread it was something like 13.0 - 15.5 v. Would the hid running directly off the stock wiring have any negative effects in my case? Its going back to being wired through a relay I have this feeling the wiring is going to give up on a night run one night.
Thanks for the info. Believe it or not I took electrical engineering back in like 99 but ill be damned if I can remember much of it. Lol
Thanks for the info. Believe it or not I took electrical engineering back in like 99 but ill be damned if I can remember much of it. Lol
04-13-2010, 04:32 AM
#15
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Now, the reason for the wording "Ampere draw" is that the battery can only supply, never force out any energy (unless you short stuff, then you get all the energy available for a very shart burst) is that it's the load that determines Ampere...
The HID needs a certain amount of energy... 12V 35W is a usual number... (for any future reference, when I say 12V I'm taking about a 12V system... Se above, it's never actually 12V)
35W means 3A (35/12=2,91) So the HID is drawing 3A... Now Voltage drop occurs when you try to stuff 3A through a very then cable... then you get resistance, and the cable becomes warm... If you try really hard the cable becomes warm enough to melt the cable insulation and shortcircuit and then stuff break... But that has never ever enything to do with the battery of charging system... It's completely the fault of the load trying to draw to much through a to small cable (or the fool that connected it up more precisely)
The HID needs a certain amount of energy... 12V 35W is a usual number... (for any future reference, when I say 12V I'm taking about a 12V system... Se above, it's never actually 12V)
35W means 3A (35/12=2,91) So the HID is drawing 3A... Now Voltage drop occurs when you try to stuff 3A through a very then cable... then you get resistance, and the cable becomes warm... If you try really hard the cable becomes warm enough to melt the cable insulation and shortcircuit and then stuff break... But that has never ever enything to do with the battery of charging system... It's completely the fault of the load trying to draw to much through a to small cable (or the fool that connected it up more precisely)
04-13-2010, 04:42 AM
#16
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
I just woke up so please bare with my early morning higher than normal level of incompitance. Lol. Basically what your saying is I shouldn't worry about the voltage dropping with the hid on? And as long as its withjin the safety parameters its fine. From what I read in another thread it was something like 13.0 - 15.5 v. Would the hid running directly off the stock wiring have any negative effects in my case? Its going back to being wired through a relay I have this feeling the wiring is going to give up on a night run one night.
Thanks for the info. Believe it or not I took electrical engineering back in like 99 but ill be damned if I can remember much of it. Lol
Thanks for the info. Believe it or not I took electrical engineering back in like 99 but ill be damned if I can remember much of it. Lol
As for the voltage dropping with the HID on or off... Well that depends on WHERE it's dropping... The battery voltage goes up or down when you turn the HID on/off depending on what the charging system is doing (The R/R mainly) and as long as that is within limits it's nothing to worry about... The voltage on the HID inputs however is definetly something to worry about... YES, you need a thick cable directly from the battery supplying the HID through a relay... Otherwise you will eventually burn out the stock cable... Not a doomsday propheciy... Simple fact, it's just a matter of time...
BTW read all of the stuff I wrote... It's a long text, but it's a very basic and very simplified explanation to how this stuff works... It should clear up a lot of confusion... But to get any use of it you need to read all of it...
04-13-2010, 04:42 AM
#17
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
Now, the reason for the wording "Ampere draw" is that the battery can only supply, never force out any energy (unless you short stuff, then you get all the energy available for a very shart burst) is that it's the load that determines Ampere...
The HID needs a certain amount of energy... 12V 35W is a usual number... (for any future reference, when I say 12V I'm taking about a 12V system... Se above, it's never actually 12V)
35W means 3A (35/12=2,91) So the HID is drawing 3A... Now Voltage drop occurs when you try to stuff 3A through a very then cable... then you get resistance, and the cable becomes warm... If you try really hard the cable becomes warm enough to melt the cable insulation and shortcircuit and then stuff break... But that has never ever enything to do with the battery of charging system... It's completely the fault of the load trying to draw to much through a to small cable (or the fool that connected it up more precisely)
The HID needs a certain amount of energy... 12V 35W is a usual number... (for any future reference, when I say 12V I'm taking about a 12V system... Se above, it's never actually 12V)
35W means 3A (35/12=2,91) So the HID is drawing 3A... Now Voltage drop occurs when you try to stuff 3A through a very then cable... then you get resistance, and the cable becomes warm... If you try really hard the cable becomes warm enough to melt the cable insulation and shortcircuit and then stuff break... But that has never ever enything to do with the battery of charging system... It's completely the fault of the load trying to draw to much through a to small cable (or the fool that connected it up more precisely)
thanks for being patient
04-13-2010, 04:44 AM
#18
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
Ok, first another basic concept... Safe voltage is 12-15V... Anything above or below this is not safe for you or the components in the bike... Normal voltage is 12.5-14.5V, here the components work exactly as they should and last a long time... Below they tend to not work and above they fail prematurely... The desired voltage when the bike is running is 13.5-14.5V...
As for the voltage dropping with the HID on or off... Well that depends on WHERE it's dropping... The battery voltage goes up or down when you turn the HID on/off depending on what the charging system is doing (The R/R mainly) and as long as that is within limits it's nothing to worry about... The voltage on the HID inputs however is definetly something to worry about... YES, you need a thick cable directly from the battery supplying the HID through a relay... Otherwise you will eventually burn out the stock cable... Not a doomsday propheciy... Simple fact, it's just a matter of time...
BTW read all of the stuff I wrote... It's a long text, but it's a very basic and very simplified explanation to how this stuff works... It should clear up a lot of confusion... But to get any use of it you need to read all of it...
As for the voltage dropping with the HID on or off... Well that depends on WHERE it's dropping... The battery voltage goes up or down when you turn the HID on/off depending on what the charging system is doing (The R/R mainly) and as long as that is within limits it's nothing to worry about... The voltage on the HID inputs however is definetly something to worry about... YES, you need a thick cable directly from the battery supplying the HID through a relay... Otherwise you will eventually burn out the stock cable... Not a doomsday propheciy... Simple fact, it's just a matter of time...
BTW read all of the stuff I wrote... It's a long text, but it's a very basic and very simplified explanation to how this stuff works... It should clear up a lot of confusion... But to get any use of it you need to read all of it...
04-13-2010, 04:49 AM
#19
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Nope... Do I seem like that *****? 
I really wasn't trying to come across as preaching/high and mighty... But when you guys are totaly lost it's pointless for me to try and help witha few questions if you draw completely the wrong conclusions from flawed facts... I have no way of knowing if I get filtered information (filtered through misconception)... So my help becomes useless... If we have a few basic facts to work with, then it's useful...
I have actually been a teacher at college level for a while and I'm an electrical engineer... And before people start pointing out errors, I'm simplifying this to the point of where the guys that really know it will probably beat me with a baseball bat... So I'm leaving out stuff and using a few "errors" as we really don't need to know that to understand the electric system of a bike...
I really wasn't trying to come across as preaching/high and mighty... But when you guys are totaly lost it's pointless for me to try and help witha few questions if you draw completely the wrong conclusions from flawed facts... I have no way of knowing if I get filtered information (filtered through misconception)... So my help becomes useless... If we have a few basic facts to work with, then it's useful...I have actually been a teacher at college level for a while and I'm an electrical engineer... And before people start pointing out errors, I'm simplifying this to the point of where the guys that really know it will probably beat me with a baseball bat... So I'm leaving out stuff and using a few "errors" as we really don't need to know that to understand the electric system of a bike...
04-13-2010, 04:54 AM
#20
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
well damn that fool to hell. ill run some thick guage wire up to the hid in the next day or so. is it possible the stock wiring as pathetic as it is is having a hard time keeping the hid powered? i know with the factory light its barely sufficient and the hid draws less than that. at the same time i dont have a light for my daytime use its turned off so ive only been using the hid at night. ill check what the battery is at with just the original bulb hooked up for comparison reasons tonite.
thanks for being patient
thanks for being patient
The HID draws 35W (3A) constant, the 65W bulb draws 65W (5.5A)constant (duh?)... But the HID needs a current rush of usualy 10A (some as much as 20A) the first few seconds when starting up.... Now since the wiring is barely able to provide 5.5A its really not a good idea to try and run 10A through it (or 20A...
)... admittedly only short bursts, but sooner or later that burst becomes a short...
04-13-2010, 06:06 AM
#21
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
The HID draws 35W (3A) constant, the 65W bulb draws 65W (5.5A)constant (duh?)... But the HID needs a current rush of usualy 10A (some as much as 20A) the first few seconds when starting up.... Now since the wiring is barely able to provide 5.5A its really not a good idea to try and run 10A through it (or 20A... )... admittedly only short bursts, but sooner or later that burst becomes a short...
)... admittedly only short bursts, but sooner or later that burst becomes a short...Now that I'm awake what you say makes sense. It did before but it makes more sense now. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and helping me. Also I had a college prof when I took electrical engineering. The man knew his **** but couldn't explain it to save his life. Terrible prof
04-13-2010, 06:57 AM
#22
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Heh... I'm not a "prof"... God help me... I was roped in as a guest lecturer when I was just done there myself and then stayed on a while paralell to working, as I'm not in any way qualified as a teacher in that sense... (I was a teachers aid in college/uni, but not more than that...) I do have the practical knowledge however...
I was roped in as a guest lecturer when I was just done there myself and then stayed on a while paralell to working, as I'm not in any way qualified as a teacher in that sense... (I was a teachers aid in college/uni, but not more than that...) I do have the practical knowledge however...
04-13-2010, 10:29 AM
#24
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
I'd actually say all could benefit from a relay... HID's to not burn up cabling at startup. Halogen to get the correct current to not have a gloomy yellowish bulb...
04-13-2010, 11:57 AM
#26
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NY State
Posts: 667
My next project is to install the eastern Beaver Relay. I willl take photos along the way and post them. Give me a couple of days to complete it. I will be changing the front signals and mirrors at the same time. I also will be putting the hoses in to sync to carbs. I have all the parts, just need to get to it.
BTW - when I told my at the time 16-year old son what "HID" was an acronym for, he could not stop laughing. It is kinda' funny. JB
BTW - when I told my at the time 16-year old son what "HID" was an acronym for, he could not stop laughing. It is kinda' funny. JB
04-13-2010, 02:59 PM
#27
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
ok so im getting thoroughly annoyed now. i was playing with the bike this afternoon, removed some stuff and tested the lights here and there. hoping thats the reason my battery was down a bit and not that its draining on its own somehow. anyways so i plug in the original headlight bulb and fire it up, bikes running at about 12.6v. rev it up to about 2000 and its at around 13.5 give or take. remove it, finish wiring up my relay for the hid, check things over make sure it turns on, everythings looking good. fire the bike up, turn on the hid let it warm up, 12.8 v and with the hid off 13.5 or so. and its showing about 13.5 under a little throttle with the hid on and into the low 14s with the hid off.
so i plug in the trickle charger to see if its telling me the batts full or charging and its charging. so its showing its charging, so i replace that with my charger and im gonna leave it on till i get home from the gym around 830 or 9 and ill check it again then. so im not sure what to do. perhaps this battery even though has been saved from death and has shown to work well on the load tester isnt as strong as we think and maybe its on its way out or something. should i look into replacing it under warranty while it still has warranty?
so i plug in the trickle charger to see if its telling me the batts full or charging and its charging. so its showing its charging, so i replace that with my charger and im gonna leave it on till i get home from the gym around 830 or 9 and ill check it again then. so im not sure what to do. perhaps this battery even though has been saved from death and has shown to work well on the load tester isnt as strong as we think and maybe its on its way out or something. should i look into replacing it under warranty while it still has warranty?
04-13-2010, 03:08 PM
#28
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
I think I know why the batt was drained a bit today. I was trying to aim the headlight last night and had the bike off for it. Light was turned on and off a half dozen times and stayed on for a total of I'd say around ten minutes. Still I don't think it should have drained it that much but it did.
04-13-2010, 03:23 PM
#29
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Ten minutes at 3A and lets say 2 minute at 15A for the start-up, I'm guessing on time and draw here...
That's roughly an Ampere hour or a 10% of the total capacity for the battery...
Say you instead did twice what you figured and you have used 20% of the battery capacity... It all adds up quick....
That's roughly an Ampere hour or a 10% of the total capacity for the battery...
Say you instead did twice what you figured and you have used 20% of the battery capacity... It all adds up quick....
04-13-2010, 05:14 PM
#30
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
yeah man i forgot that i did that last night i was gonna start ripping out hair if i had any to begin with, lol. shes on the charger now and i jsut checked, just shy of 14v. so ill leave it on all night should be good and full by he morning. the little charger i have is old and decrepit but man does it ever work good, lol.
you know what was really weird today, maybe you can explain this. i hook up the relay, connect everything, and fire up the light, bike is off. lo beam shows just angel eye and leds, high beam angel eye stays on and hid fires up. i flick it back to lo beam and the hid stays on and the leds come on. turn the key off, turn it on and again the exact same thing happened. i thought maybe the relay was sticking open or something os i tried another and had the same result. it didnt change until i fired the bike up and then it worked normally. strange stuff
you know what was really weird today, maybe you can explain this. i hook up the relay, connect everything, and fire up the light, bike is off. lo beam shows just angel eye and leds, high beam angel eye stays on and hid fires up. i flick it back to lo beam and the hid stays on and the leds come on. turn the key off, turn it on and again the exact same thing happened. i thought maybe the relay was sticking open or something os i tried another and had the same result. it didnt change until i fired the bike up and then it worked normally. strange stuff
