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Gear Clunk Its annoying!!

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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:05 AM
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Gear Clunk Its annoying!!

hi all,

Im fairly new to biking, and wanted to shed some light on changing gears (sounds silly i know)

Im aware of the clunk when engaging 1st but i find the storm tends to have an noticeble clunk when going through the gears. Not all the time though! ive adjusted the chain to see if this would help, it did for a while, and its started occasionally doing it again.

Im thinking its my technique, may staying in the low revs to change, as its a click when i push the gears to change at 6000 revs. does anyone have the same thoughts or am i worrying over nothing?

Cheers
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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Try shifting at 9000 RPM
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:20 AM
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Check your chain again. If it fixed the issue the first time then the chain may be stretched. Also these things have a common clunk/grind into second gear.
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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ive checked the chain this afternoon, and it feels a little tight, even though i adjusted it the other day and it had 2' of slack, now its probably 1".

9000 revs isnt that too much if your going from 1st to 2nd, or is that the norm?
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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1st to 2nd is clunky on these bikes, I added the Factory Pro detent arm kit and it made a noticeable difference - they also have the arm with an improved shift star as a kit which others have said makes it shift even nicer. Try searching for those posts on here.

Last edited by RickB; Mar 4, 2010 at 09:48 AM. Reason: content
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:47 AM
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I suggest shifting when you bounce off the rev limiter... seems to really smooth things out from 1st to 2nd!
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:48 AM
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At what revs are you actually changing gears?

If you are below 3.5k then you are decidedly short shifting and yes, that means clunky... Won't matter what bike you are on... The only solution to that is to get it going out of idle...

Side note though... If you are new to bikes as you say... take it easy, the VTR is rather user friendly and also rather beginner friendly... But it doesn't suffer fools lightly...
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 09:51 AM
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Change your oil often. After an oil change you'll notice the smoothest shifting.
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 10:18 AM
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when you shift from 1st to 2nd, shift before 5,500rpm. there is a sweet spot in the rpm range. just gotta get used to it. new oil helps for a while, fiddling with the shift lever linkage can help. but don't rely on your chain tension as a good reference. remember you always want to adjust your chain using the tightest section of the chain as a reference. better the chain be too loose in spots than too tight. too loose, no big deal. too tight, you'll snap it when you hit your first bump.
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety
If you are below 3.5k then you are decidedly short shifting and yes, that means clunky... Won't matter what bike you are on...
+1
Motorcycle transmissions are commonly known as "dog boxes". There is a set of dogs that engages with a set of slots to lock the transmission to that gear.

Short-shifting causes the dog to slam the end of the slot. that's what makes the clunk.

get up higher inot the RPM range, then shift quick and decisively - don't let the engine RPM drop much and the dogs will be happy.
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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thanks all thats good feedback, il adjust the chain as it is too tight and shift in the higher revs then, just feels wrong but hey!! the engine is designed to the max i suppose and the rev counter has 11000 on it so i guess when i change it its too low in comparison.
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 12:15 PM
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Another thing with the 1 -2 shift. Make it a firm one. I've missed second a bunch of times shifting too easily. This is more noticable at high rpms. If you aren't direct with it the bitch will grind and likely find neutral and then give you some grinding to get into second.
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 12:33 PM
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does the clunking cause damage? or is it part of the makeup of bikes and not worth worrying about??
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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No clunk is a good clunk.

Or should I say, the best clunk is no clunk at all.

the fastest upshift doesn't use the clutch. Just a light roll off of the throttle to unload the gears and a quick flick of the shift lever and back on the gas.
done correctly, it is silky smooth and there is no clunk.

Clunking comes from lazy shifting, where the input and countershafts are not speed-matched.

Last edited by RCVTR; Mar 4, 2010 at 01:22 PM.
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RCVTR
No clunk is a good clunk.

Or should I say, the best clunk is no clunk at all.

the fastest upshift doesn't use the clutch. Just a light roll off of the throttle to unload the gears and a quick flick of the shift lever and back on the gas.
done correctly, it is silky smooth and there is no clunk.

Clunking comes from lazy shifting, where the input and countershafts are not speed-matched.
lazy shifting can also be caused by the shifter to foot position, so i guess it's not really 'lazy' but more of your foots ability to apply pressure. if you feel you have to move your foot a lot to actually shift then this may be something you need to address.

tim
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 11:25 PM
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i didnt know there was such a thing as lazy shifting, as far as im aware i i use all the component parts of changing. revs..off gas..clutch in click gear on gas again. ive adapted to blipping the throttle rather than coming off. i have even kept the gas on.

i just feel that when i go out the gears work nice and just gentle click and others the clunks back. ive even tried pre tensioning the gear with my foot.

I did have the same similar problem with my bandit 600 in august last year, intermittent clunking, so i could pin it down to rider error i suppose! although when i was practicing for my test i were learning on a CB500 and that was fine!
Old Mar 4, 2010 | 11:52 PM
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For the first few thousand miles, the first gear to second gear clunk, pinwheel or missed shift drove me crazy. If you want your VTR to shift like butter, including the 1-2 shift?

Bleed/change the clutch fluid if it is or could be more than a year old. Stop using the over priced 10w40 "motorcycle" oil and get some 15w40 heavy duty aka 'diesel".

My VTR now shifts as smooth as silk, including the 1-2 shift.
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RK1
Stop using the over priced 10w40 "motorcycle" oil and get some 15w40 heavy duty aka 'diesel".
YEAH.....FINALLY.....an oil thread!!!!!!!!!
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by RK1
Stop using the over priced 10w40 "motorcycle" oil and get some 15w40 heavy duty aka 'diesel".
Originally Posted by peterpanic
YEAH.....FINALLY.....an oil thread!!!!!!!!!
Well, since we went there, may as well perpetuate the cycle.

So you'd use the new 15-40s even though they are now the SJ rating with detergents? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 10:14 AM
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oh god, here we go. who said the O word?!! alright I'm not hanging around for this. Mobil 1 15w-50 FTW! and I'm out.
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 10:21 AM
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"change your oil often. After an oil change you'll notice the smoothest shifting."

+1....... and yes the type of oil used greatly influences shifting.
I went to Rotella Synth. and I am never going back.

Since this is turning to an oil thread....
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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which one 15-40 or 15-50??? does it have to be rated for bikes or cars?
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 11:19 AM
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oh! fully or semi? cheers
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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cant believe i read this all the way down and got sucked into an oil thread....
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dshakes
cant believe i read this all the way down and got sucked into an oil thread....
sorry only a newbi! just asking must have made interesting reading up until oil? i take it oil is a stickler then?
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 02:09 PM
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I like Tim's advice...

Putting around town just makes your oil dirty.

I put any old oil in my snowlower.

It seems like to used oil tank at Kragen is full every time I go there.

I just heard it would only take 2 ounces of nuclear fuel per person per year to meet current demands.

don't think we'll see nuclear motorcycles any time soon.
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOpBLnVgAPI
Originally Posted by nick.p0306
hi all,

Im fairly new to biking, and wanted to shed some light on changing gears (sounds silly i know)

Im aware of the clunk when engaging 1st but i find the storm tends to have an noticeble clunk when going through the gears. Not all the time though! ive adjusted the chain to see if this would help, it did for a while, and its started occasionally doing it again.

Im thinking its my technique, may staying in the low revs to change, as its a click when i push the gears to change at 6000 revs. does anyone have the same thoughts or am i worrying over nothing?
.
Cheers
Listen to what these people are telling you about lazy shifting.You yourself said it does not happen every time.Watch my video.There are quite few gear changes.Upshifts are quick and deliberate.Down shifts are not quite as quick.Listen at 1:17.There is your clunk.I blew that down shift.Did not blip the throttle.Any shifts below 3000 or so can be cluncky.No you don't have to shift at 9 grand.Practice--it will come to you.

Last edited by Hawknut; Mar 7, 2010 at 05:25 PM.
Old Mar 5, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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You should try my Buell...like shifting gears on a 1950's John Deere...
I was blown away by how smooth my VTR shift is....like a Swiss watch compared to the Buell. Matching the sweet spot on the revs is the way to go...
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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Found out and a big thanks!!

Hi all,

After all that i have finally sussed the problem....

A lad down the road from where i live has a valadero, thus offered to take mine for a test ride (he'd been kept in the help me loop for some time)

Brought the bike back after the test run and said my gear box was great and like silk.

He did say i should blip the throttle more to get the dogs spinnng! heard that from one of the replys!!

So tomorrow im going to re assess my riding technique.

Im also going to look at all the info from everyones reply, and i need to say a big thanks to all that gave some feedback, as a newbi its appreciated.

Cheers again.
Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Erik S.
Well, since we went there, may as well perpetuate the cycle.

So you'd use the new 15-40s even though they are now the SJ rating with detergents? HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
SJ? SJ oil is ancient history. Most available oil is at least SL for 15w40, SM for most 15w40 and all of everything else.

Gotta chuckle at the guy who spends $12-$15 per quart for super duper motorcycle "racing" oil, has 12 year old Pep Boys DOT 3 in his clutch master cylinder, and can't figger out why his bike don't shift good! Well duh! Ha!



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