ZERO

I just installed the Factory Pro shift kit in my wifes Superhawk.
She had an issue with the first gear to second shift that always resulted in neutral. When I drove the bike, I had no such issue, but the throw is very long.

Long story short. The mod makes a huge improvement! Each gear really clicks audibly and much more precise. The throw feels shorter. Much shorter and the shifting is very solid and dependable. WELL WORTH THE COST!!!

A few tips: The kit does come with the clutch cover gasket, but not a water pump O-ring. Order a new one.

I found that it was easier to remove the two 10mm bolts off of the ignition pulser and remove the pulser from the cover than to hunt down, unplug and then refit the pulser wire through the frame, etc. a dab of black silicone seals it up.



When fitting the new detent arm, leave the bolt a little loose and use a piece of string to pull the spring up and over the arm. This sucker is TWICE as strong as the stock part.

Before starting the job, remove the radiator cap and remove the bottom radiator hose from the left radiator to drain the coolant. Have a rag ready for the little bit that is left when you pull off the water pump cover. This way NO water will enter your crankcase. (And you can use new coolant anyway, huh?)

AndyMX47

Nice review Zero - answers the questions I had too! Over the weekend I looked up the price for the stock shift drum arm - it's something like $13, which means it probably cost Honda 13 cents.


Always like to see feedback after a mod!

Twitchy

Thanks for the review Zero. Still waiting on any communication from Marc as to whether my kit is made yet or shipped or forgotten. But it is always good to see photos of the inside before starting a job. Wondering whether to do the ignition rotor at the same time.

ZERO

I didn't load the advance (anti rattle gear)as the book says and I ended up with engine noise.
I just took it apart again. All good.
I got my kit from ordered to delivered in about ten days

Twitchy

Anyone in the U.S. want ring FP? Ordered kit early December, 2 emails since to see how things are going - zero return communication. No confirmation of manufacture, shipping, nothing.

ZERO

Wow. His communication was great for me.
Get me your information and order number and I'll stir the pot for you this afternoon.

Twitchy

PM sent. Thanks.

skokievtr

Excellent how-to, thanks.

Are you absolutely sure the FP star is the same profile as the OEM star? From your photos it appears the FP star has a lower height to the five "peaks" and a more uniform if not only shallower profile in the one "valley" than the OEM star.

It would seem the lower height of the "peaks" would provide less rise and resistance to the arm roller resulting in easier shifts?

ZERO

I didn't measure them. I went by looks alone.
It would make sense that they are not the same.
No. I am not certain.

skokievtr

But your glowing report is based on use of the FP star and thus the shifting action may NOT be so great keeping in the OEM star as you recommend not installing the FP star to save time and money.

You did not qualify this discepecy and thus invalidated your very positive review to a maybe if only just the FP arm and spring are installed!

thedeatons

I think I hear you saying that the only thing that stands between the OEM shift star and the FP shift star is a dremel tool.....

James

skokievtr

???

As I stated in my only other reply to this thread before my last, the profiles of the FP star appear "shorter" (and more gradual) than OEM. The review was based on the FP star but he recommended not installing it. So it is unknown how much better the FP star improves shifting over keeping the oem per his review anyway.

thedeatons

Yah i was just kidding

James

ZERO

My review was based on my installing the new detent arm, spring and shift star and the assumption that the star was the same dimensions as stock.
I have no first hand experience with not changing the star. I did and the shifting action is much, much better. Also changing the star ads time and complication to the job and I am uncertain if it is time and money well spent. So much of the better shifting seems to be the result of the much stronger detent arm spring alone.
My opinion.

skokievtr

I verified with FP that their star has different cam heights and profiles. According to Marc (FP "president"), the star contributes about 50% to the improved function. The arm and spring provide smoother and more positive activation but the reduced effort and rapidity is from the star.

ZERO

Fair enough. I've got the cover off awaiting a new gasket. I still have the old, original star too. I'll measure the peaks and valleys in the next few days..

E.Marquez

Not the same in any of the three superhawks I have installed this kit in.

Either your bike is special and came from the factory with a different part
Your bike already had the FP part installed
Or you simply did not notice the difference

I'll take pics of both shift stars in a week or so and post

ZERO

I've already posted before and after pics in my initial thread.........

ZERO

OK
As already stated. No need to measure. Im sitting here looking at the proof.The peaks ARE shorter on the FP part.
The valleys are roughly the same.
It stands to reason. Not only do the shift throws SEEM shorter. The ARE in fact shorter.
I now recommend replacing the star as well.
Please forgive my original theory.
Shame on me!!!

E.Marquez

LOL, all good.. I was really confused how what you were seeing in front of you was so different then what I had sitting in front of me.

skokievtr

+1 My old eyes are OK despite needing cataract surgery on the left to go with the right already done.

I had ordered the EVO kit, called and changed it to the basic kit, then stuck to my guns and reordered the EVO kit. Lucky the place I ordered was understanding and hopefully FP comes thru after the emails and go, stop, go...

thedeatons

So i'm a little confused about the differences...

Are the differences such that we are able to modify our stock shift star to achieve better results?

(I realize there may be no replacement for spending money, but i'm always after the inexpensive option

James

E.Marquez

If you have the ability to mount, index, and mil complex curves in hardened Steel in a 360 deg circle than sure , piece of cake.

ren

I'd be happy to try and model it in CAD if you guys would like, also that damn HAAS CNC Mill sitting in my shop really needs to get fixed..

Twitchy

Hi guys, following the last few posts regarding the differences between the shift stars, check these out;





The OEM spring is noticeably thinner gauge than the FP piece, the roller (bearing) is obviously smaller diameter, and the star itself has considerably lower peaks and rounder valleys. Also the OEM star seems to have pins that press through from the back, where the FP piece seems to be milled. The recess for the bolt head is larger on the FP unit, presumably to reduce weight, which is more surprisingly, but looking at the back, it is one solid section.

Hopefully this helps.

ZERO

What do you think of the way it shifts?

Twitchy

Apologies for the absence guys, but I have yet to test it. I am also installing (fighting) Convertibars, along with an STM clutch slave cylinder I was given. As I am trying to get the bars setup in the shed as close as possible, which means leaving the clutch & brake lines loose at the bar ends while positioning. Now I want to get the clutch all bled up and check the throw of the new slave before I put the right side cover back on. On top of that, the HEL lines I bought 4 months ago, and only now getting around to fitting are waaaaay too long. The clutch line curves from the master, back through to the steering head bracket, I have curved it down to the bottom of the radiator, back up to the frame, along to the bracket and down to the slave. I asked for +2" front brake & clutch with standard rear brake. I reckon the clutch line is 4" longer than stock, the front brake lines might be ok, the rear brake is probably an inch or so too long. The next step is to side by side compare the lines, and send them back to get shortened. Bloody bugger.

Mallebollia

I ordered the Factory pro Kit today (travels to Europe). Is there anything important to know when removing the OEM star, detent arm and spring? Anything else usefull to know?

Tanks in Advance