Ok my hawks been down fow awhile now, I was aggraravted after putting a new r/r battery and the stator last season and still not charging.
I did some testing and this is what I have.


Stator:
Yellow wires to ground, OL. = Check

Between yellow wires I get 1.0 ohm = Check


R/R: (Testing New Aftermarket And Old stuck Unit)

Red multimeter lead to Red wire Black lead to yellows. Readings are OL on both units. = check

My multimeter's diode test Reads mV so I'm unsure with these readings
-Black multimeter lead to red wire, Red lead to yellow wires
old unit gave readings from 533, 560, 562
new units readings were all 451 and two were 441

Connecting Black multimeter lead to green wire and red lead to yellows
The new unit all one reading is OL and other two are 012mV
The old stuck unit all readin are OL

Connecting red Mulimeter lead to negtive wire and black lead to yellows
old unit I get reading around 570
the new unit two readings of 006 and one of 570

I'm scratching my head looking at these things. The old stock unit wasn't melted or anything. I assumed it was bad when my bike died so I bought this aftermarket R6 unit. Hope someone can help.

 

From what you say, your stator checks out.
If theres no shorts to ground from the 3 wires, and your ohms readings between the windings are constant @ 1 ohm, its pretty healthy.
Theres a lot of mis information going around about diagnostic checks using an ohmmeter testing a R/R unit.
The thruth is- you can only component check the circuit with an ohmmeter when the circuit is layed out open in front of you and components can be individually checked. In the case of R/R units cast into a plastic blob, you cant tell squat while they are all assembeld.
The only check for R/R thats of any value, is a voltmeter test of its output while firing 3-phase AC down its inputs.
Thats why the burden of proof lies with the stator test when diagnosing charging problems.

It looks like You need a good R/R, not some substitutes which are a shot in the dark most times.
Your old R/R is of no diagnostic value, of course.
Also buying a used R/R is like buying used underwear.

 

Are you sure you got the red and green wires hooked up right on the new R/R? I don't think the wire locations are the same between the Honda and Yamaha units.

http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/

 

I followed the http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/ with a used R6 R/R and had no problems. The only thing I had to remind myself was about the red and green orientation when connecting them.

What scared me, was I hooked it up, and had no power what-so-ever. Turns out, the main fuse on the left side of the subframe had blown. Replaced it, and things are good now.

 

For wires Red goes to red and green to black? Right?

 

Follow that link: http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/ it makes it clear.

Are you using a harness from a Yamaha? Or your own spade connectors?

Circuit Burner is our local electrical expert (and sells the only R/Rs with a lifetime warranty) I know he won't lead you wrong.