DIY Chain replacement....?
 

Yeah I searched, but the info is scattered across 50 threads and hard to sort out.

My chain has a crapload of miles on it and is sticky in places and stretched in others. I've decided after today I'm going to park it until I have a new chain on there, it just isn't safe.

I have some questions...

Can a stock-length chain be purchased and installed without removing the swingarm? Seems like it should be possible since it looks the swingarm attaches to the back of the engine, not the frame.

If not, then I guess I buy a 520 chain, cut it and clip it while it's on the bike, right?

How do I remove links from the 520 chain? Do I need a special tool, if so, what/where do you recommend getting?

Same question for clipping the new chain, what tool/method do you recommend?

Are the specialty tools to do it correctly cost-prohibitive, to where I should just take it to a shop? I do all my own car shit, so I don't mind investing in tools, I don't plan on getting out of bikes anytime soon and I loathe paying shops to do stuff I can figure out myself.

What chains do you buy for your own bike? I'm going to have this for awhile so I don't want to go cheap. Looks like DID is popular though. I see all sorts of debate about what clips are better, I guess there is no one answer.

Is this a good start? The most expensive DID chain I see listed on this site, claims to be long-lasting. Or what about IZUMI?

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...fCatId=&mmyId=

http://www.denniskirk.com/denniskirk.../110098120.jpg


And lastly, is sprocket replacement normal maintenance? Any trick to determining if they need to be replaced? The rear teeth look fine at 35K miles, not sure if they're the original sprockets. The bike has had an easy life. I'm wondering if riding with a stretched chain could've damaged the sprockets, and I've heard about them being out of round which causes the chain to stretch worse. I'm at the end of my adjustment now, and the chain seems to loosen up by the day, even though I keep it waxed. I like the gearing, so I wouldn't mess with that, just want this bike to go another 35K reliably.

Any chain you buy is going to come in one long length (not a loop). So you're going to have to join the chain on the bike. IF the chain comes with a "press fit" master link (what you have pictured above with the DID520ZVM2), you will need a chain press to attach the 2 sides of the master. It looks like this http://assets2.revzilla.com/product_...jpg?1235146863 They cost between $15 and $75
If your chain comes with a "clip" style master link, you don't need a chain press. Some raceing series ban "clip" style chains...some people swear they are unsafe. Ask around/do your own research and make up your own opinion.

To get your old chain off, you have many options.
Option #1 is the easiest....get a dremel or small angle grinder, and simply cut the chain.
Option #2. Requires a chain breaker ($4 to $75 depending on brand/style) http://www.indysuperbike.com/image.php?productid=112069 This one's 3.95

Regarding sprockets...if the teeth have lost more than 1/3 of their height...it's time to replace the sprocket. IF the teeth are wearing more on one side than the other (teeth look like shark fins rather than upside V) then i'd replace em. But if the teeth look to be in good shape, and have most (or all) of the original height...keep em. No sense wasting money.

And a side note since RPV-Hawk covered most other stuff..... Stock chain and sprockets are 530, so unless your sprockets are already changed, buy a 530 chain... Or a full 520 set...

As for chain life, a good X ring chain from a reputable brand (DID and others) will last you a good long while if taken care of...

Clean the sprockets real good and feel the teeth, you are correct a "bad" chain can wear the sprockets so they eat the new chain faster... You can usually feel an edge on the flat side of the sprocket if that has happened...

As with anything else, you get what you pay for.

Cheep chains won't last as long as a better quality chain ( we're assuming that both chains receive appropriate attention during their life span ).

The same applies to chain tools...check out Motion Pro as well as the chain mfgr's tools. You have to have the correct tools for the job at hand.

Have your shop manual at hand.

Don't install a new chain on used sprockets.

This is the bestest chain lube I've ever found.

Attachment 28508


Rex

edit: Tweety beat me to it.. Stock is 530, not 520..

if you want to get another 35k miles buy STEEL sprockets not aluminum.

tim

In the Official Honda VTR1000F Service Manual (61MBB05) 3-15 – 3-18 it clearly states the Firestorm "uses a drive chain with a staked (riveted) master link." - "CAUTION: A drive chain with a clip-type master link must not be used."

http://homepage.mac.com/spaderunner/...drivechain.jpg

nuff said

Removing the chain is simple with an angle grinder to remove the old rivet head link. Putting the new chain & link requires a special tool to help secure the rivet head on the link.

All good advice. I have used a clip style master link with no problems. YMMV. I would go with RK or DID chain. My one experience with EK was not good, but in fairness to EK it was not their best chain. I found a top of the line RK (520GXW) on Ebay from an individual and paid about half what it would have cost from a dealer.
I have a 520 setup on my bike now, but if I had to do it again I would probably go with 530 for longevity; the difference in performance is not noticeable. 520 looks "cooler" though.
I have also pressed on a rivet style master link using patience and vise grips and a small punch to peen the rivet heads. Works great. This advice was given to me by a long time mechanic.

Well, unlike Killer, I've had great experience with EK chains, but I've only bought their better chains. A similarly priced DID chain is comparable to the EK. I've never tried RK.

If you want to avoid spending money for a chain tool you can get the EK screw-type master link(you have to use an EK chain). I have one on right now because I wanted to try it out. You just need a box wrench to rivet the chain together, and if you follow the directions it works just like a rivet link (has the same strength rating).

How do I determine if I have 520 or 530 sprockets? What do I measure? I have no idea what's on there now, bought it with 20K on it.

I don't care if the chain looks pretty or gains me 1/100th of a second in the 1/4 mile for weighing 3 milligrams less.

That 2nd brand I posted sells chains in the stock length. Anything else would require shortening, I presume with the same method I'd use to remove my worn chain.

Well measuring the teeth is kinda hard as they are likely a bit worn and in a circle...;)

If they are the stock Honda parts, they have markings on them... (atleast mine had...) if not they usually have the name or logo of the aftermarket company making them on the side... I'd start by looking for that...

BTW at the miles you are, I'd guess you will need sprockets anyway... So why not pick a kit with 530 sprockets and pre-cut chain of a good brand and swap it all out?

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...Id=&mmyId=2028

And a tool that should work decent for removing the old and installing the new chain...

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...afCatId=&mmyId=

http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums...d.php?t=311985

some instructions on how to use the mini chain tool.

Ok, so I found out a 520 sprocket is 20/80ths thick (1/4"). A 530 sprocket is 30/80ths thick (3/8").

So I can measure that, and I'll go with a 530 unless maybe I happen to have 520's on there now that are in good shape. Thicker sprocket should mean less wear.



As for tools, this guy sells a setup for $25 if I buy a chain there.

DID type Drive Chain Rivet Tool
http://www.mikesxs.net/parts/img250/35-0005.jpg
Drive Chain Riveter Tool - Rivets high strength rear drive chain Rivet links with
hollow pin ends as on our IZUMI 530HT Chain ( Rivet link #56-0235 ) and many
DID brand chains. This quality tool is sold by Mikes XS at below cost.

Note: Discount of $25.00 for this tool if you purchase any IZUMI chain at
the same time.
Part #35-0005 $25.00 USD Ea.ADD TO CART

So, the stock chain is 102 links? These same guys have one:

for IZUMI ES530HSDC x 102 (Heavy Super Duty O-Ring Chain)
Superior Quality - Made in Japan
Part #56-0023 $129.00 USD Ea

I bought a 102 link, 1000cc rated, 530 X-Ring RK chain from these guys...http://www.motorcycleproshop.com/det...t_id=1223-0109

They sell it for the cheapest price I could find for that chain. Even after including shipping and CA tax it's pretty close to $100 to your door.

The also sell JT steel sprockets. I picked up a 15/43 sprocket combo and the chain above for a grand total of $150 shipped.

I couldn't find any kit, with a quality chain and steel sprockets, anywhere near that price on ebay or anywhere else.

http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/3703...00f-97-06.html they sell chain and sprocket set. they make it easy you can even play with gearing if you want. i wont get into clip style master links LOL.

If you order a kit, make sure it has the correct number of teeth on the sprockets, unless you want to go to lower gearing. The kit I ordered was supposed to have stock gearing, but when I opened it at the dealer to check, it had a 43 tooth rear. So I had to order the sprockets separately. I went with steel after the parts guy said he's gotten as little as 3,000 miles out of an aluminum sprocket. The OEM replacement Al sprocket, which obviously wears well, is $169 list.:eek:

I also have just under 35,000 on the original chain, but I'm planning on replacing it soon. All 3 of my previous bikes were shaft drive (Honda CX500, Honda CB700SC and BMW R100RS), so this is the first time I've had to deal with chain and sprocket replacement as well.

yeah. He's correct. I just went through a Vortex alum in 4000 miles. I'm not excessively abusive and it was well maintained. I'm going to AFAM this trip.

Parts should be here any day now.

Sprockets look fine surprisingly, they must be replacements.

The chain on there is a DID o-ring chain with rivet link and it looks BAD! The rivet link is stretched all to hell. I should take a pic, I'm surprised it didn't jump ship and lock up my tire or something.

Yeah Vortex sprockets are not the way to go...... AFAM are about the best AL sprockets I've tried but this time I'm running a JT steel 520 rear sprocket to see how it works. I haven't put enough miles on it yet to make much of a judgment except it does make a bit more noise than a AL sprocket.

Also to answer a couple of the OP questions :
Yes you can put a endless loop chain on by just removing the left foot peg bracket.

To remove the chain a dremel or bolt cutters work just fine and most times it is easier and quicker to just cut the old chain off instead of trying to push a couple of rivets out.

I use a RK chain tool but the Motion Pro is nice also. I never used a DID tool so I could tell you on that one.

I checked the front vortex sprocket and their was lateral play in excess of the OEM sprocket, so I ordered a chrome moly drilled AFAM front and a workslite alloy 520 AFAM for the rear. Hopfully these will prove more relaible. If not, it's back to steel.

www.sprocketcenter.com

I just purchased a RK x-ring 530 chain for $112 at a local cycle gear. (112 link, so it had to be shortened)

At 15K miles, I replaced both sprockets and the chain without cutting the old chain off.
I bought the chain + sprocket kit from Dennis Kirk and had the new chain pressed at a local shop.
You can get the old chain off if you can take your back wheel off and the one small front peg allen bolt. You'll be able to jimmy the chain through and off if you can do both of those. You'll have to rotate the foot peg around with a mallet maybe.

PLEASE TELL ME IF THIS IS FROWNED UPON DOING IT THAT WAY! I just didn't want to buy more flippin' tools for a one time job.

Heres a useful chart.....

Chain size.. Pitch.. Inner roller width

415.. 1/2.. 3/16
420.. 1/2.. 1/4
520.. 5/8.. 1/4
525.. 5/8.. 5/16
530.. 5/8.. 3/8
630.. 3/4.. 3/8

For some reason the spacing on this post keeps screwing up... but the chart should be self explanatory.

I run a 530 DID XRing chain with a 43 (+2) in the rear, and stock up front (I forget the # teeth). I needed 104 links to get it to fit, the 102 was too short. I was running -1 up front and stock in the rear, I like the stock front / 43 rear better.

I replaced both sprockets with Sunstar steel and DID XRing - gold looks cool.

DIY Chain replacement...
 

Hi there, just thought i'd drop a link to a write up of my chain and sprocket replacement that i have just done this week...hope you find some of it helpful.
If anyone would like it putting on this site let me know,

http://www.haymouth.co.uk/phpBB3/vie...p?f=31&t=16500