correct procedure-fork alignment????
#1
correct procedure-fork alignment????
Is there a correct method to get the forks to align themselves before tightening everything on the front end? I read on brake tech site to compress and release a few times to set the front properly, then tighten. what? losen everything but the clipons and push up and down? tighten in what order?
#3
sure. I'll ship them out soon as i get em. were you biddin on em?
hey, what the hell are doing wasting time posting. get busy on those fork braces, you got about 20 or 30 to make. Hell, you'll be gettin an MV Augusta with all those bucks you're gonna be makin.
hey, what the hell are doing wasting time posting. get busy on those fork braces, you got about 20 or 30 to make. Hell, you'll be gettin an MV Augusta with all those bucks you're gonna be makin.
Last edited by nath981; 04-10-2009 at 10:13 PM.
#4
nope, Ill be getting a, hopefully, working knee with those bucks.
I didnt bid on the wheels, I wish I could have, but debt wont allow it.
You got a killer deal, hopefully the buell front wheel I setup will have the same effect.
I didnt bid on the wheels, I wish I could have, but debt wont allow it.
You got a killer deal, hopefully the buell front wheel I setup will have the same effect.
#5
Is there a correct method to get the forks to align themselves before tightening everything on the front end? I read on brake tech site to compress and release a few times to set the front properly, then tighten. what? losen everything but the clipons and push up and down? tighten in what order?
#8
the Buell wheel: necessity is the mother of invention, and you are definitely an inventor. speaking of which, did you mount your steering stabilizer. I need the fork collar to attempt to mount mine. Can you make another one from the template you made?? or should I get one elsewhere?
killer deal: I hope so. I shouldn't have. it's the most I've ever spent on an upgrade cause I'm basically poor(credit cards are bad). I believe the price was fair and would have bought them right off, but I was hoping someone would have snatched them up so I wouldn't have to deal with it. If I had the means, I would have already bought the lightest wheels I could have long ago. I will buy **** that gets me around corners quicker cause that's what I love about riding. Going straight is something i tolerate to get to turns. Tires: try to use up the outsides before the middles-yeah!
thanks, Nathan
#9
I'll tell you how I did it. After installing Race Tech springs, I decided to pull the fork tubes up 11mm. I cranked off the bolts of the upper and lower triple clamps. I jacked up the forks. I placed the edge of a 2mm thick washer and the base of a 9mm bullet between the clip-on ring and the top triple clamp. I let down the front end and torqued up the bolts. Use your imagination and get the forks to be the exact same measure above the top triple and you're done.
thanks, Nathan
#10
Here's the method I use....
Keep the axle "loose" (finger tighten the axle bolt, and leave the axle pinch bolts loose).... get the forks to the height you want them measuring accuratly, tighten the triples (top and bottom) on one fork completely (say the right side). Then tighten just the top triple bolt on the opposite side (left)... Compress the front end a few times using the brakes. Then torque the lower triple on the left side. This should set the forks in place.
Now, tighten the axle bolt completely. Then tighten the lower pinch bolts on the right side fork. Compress the front end a few times with the brake again. Then torque the left side pinch bolts.... then enjoy.
J.
Keep the axle "loose" (finger tighten the axle bolt, and leave the axle pinch bolts loose).... get the forks to the height you want them measuring accuratly, tighten the triples (top and bottom) on one fork completely (say the right side). Then tighten just the top triple bolt on the opposite side (left)... Compress the front end a few times using the brakes. Then torque the lower triple on the left side. This should set the forks in place.
Now, tighten the axle bolt completely. Then tighten the lower pinch bolts on the right side fork. Compress the front end a few times with the brake again. Then torque the left side pinch bolts.... then enjoy.
J.
#11
I didn't, but I never removed the wheel or even took the forks off the bike. I just swapped out the springs and pulled up the tubes. Since everything else was fine before my only concern was making sure both tubes were at the exact same height.
#12
Install the forks and set them to the right height with the top triple clamp.If you pull them through the top clamp,make sure they are both at the same height ( use a good ruler/caliper/whatever). Tighten top clamp and leave the bottom clamp finger tight.
Now install wheel,calipers and leave the axle finger tight.
Spin the front wheel as fast as you can by hand and use the brake to stop it, this "shocks" the forks into alignment.Do this 2 or 3 times. Now tighten the axle,axle clamps and lower triple clamp, install fender and brake line brackets.... Job done!
Thanks to Hawkrider for this.....
Now install wheel,calipers and leave the axle finger tight.
Spin the front wheel as fast as you can by hand and use the brake to stop it, this "shocks" the forks into alignment.Do this 2 or 3 times. Now tighten the axle,axle clamps and lower triple clamp, install fender and brake line brackets.... Job done!
Thanks to Hawkrider for this.....
#13
The only thing I would add is that if the top triple clamp is misaligned, the forks will be misaligned.
I loosen the top nut on the top triple clamp, so it will rotate in to alignment, but tight enough to serve as a height reference.
The lower triple clamp bores are the primary alignment, due to their length. I install the front wheel and tighten the pinch bolts. Then tighten the lower triple clamps in stages in an alternating pattern. Next is the top nut on the top triple clamp. Then the top triple clamp pinch bolts.
I loosen the top nut on the top triple clamp, so it will rotate in to alignment, but tight enough to serve as a height reference.
The lower triple clamp bores are the primary alignment, due to their length. I install the front wheel and tighten the pinch bolts. Then tighten the lower triple clamps in stages in an alternating pattern. Next is the top nut on the top triple clamp. Then the top triple clamp pinch bolts.
#14
thanks for all the advice. It's amazing that there are so many diff ways of doing the same thing, huh. Evidently, we have a lot of thinkers on this forum, and I aint one of them.lol
I have never done any of this before and, I guess luckily, never had a problem til now, even though the triples were bent(didn't find out til recently). I just losened everything and tightened top and bottom triples alternately, then tighten the axle and then the pinch bolts last. Never had any brake shudder or handling problems. Had the hawk wide open in 6th gear several times, laid over on bumpy turns, for years and never knew that triples were bent. Only symptom was hands off veer to the right which i attributed to marks off on swingarm. Then I foused on this and made certain that rear wheel alignment was right by measuring, and it still veered right. All I would have had to do was to look over the ever present tank bag that hid the alignment mark on top triple and I would have discovered the bent triples. stupido!
I'm going to losen things up and try the brake shock thing and see what happens. I still have to replace the triples with the ones I just bought from Zedicus, so everything's comin apart again, ****. report back later.
thanks, nathan
I have never done any of this before and, I guess luckily, never had a problem til now, even though the triples were bent(didn't find out til recently). I just losened everything and tightened top and bottom triples alternately, then tighten the axle and then the pinch bolts last. Never had any brake shudder or handling problems. Had the hawk wide open in 6th gear several times, laid over on bumpy turns, for years and never knew that triples were bent. Only symptom was hands off veer to the right which i attributed to marks off on swingarm. Then I foused on this and made certain that rear wheel alignment was right by measuring, and it still veered right. All I would have had to do was to look over the ever present tank bag that hid the alignment mark on top triple and I would have discovered the bent triples. stupido!
I'm going to losen things up and try the brake shock thing and see what happens. I still have to replace the triples with the ones I just bought from Zedicus, so everything's comin apart again, ****. report back later.
thanks, nathan
Last edited by nath981; 04-12-2009 at 09:32 AM.
#15
losened everything up except the clipons and forks moved up and down freely. spun front wheel and hit brake to shock into alignment. Tightened everything up and wnet for a spin. No dice. brakes still shudder when clamped hard. Next will take off calipers and see if all pistons are operating and check flatness of pads.
#16
Is it possible the brake discs are warped? Maybe you want to check the discs, i had the same symptoms with a shudder while braking hard, went through all the stages of aligning and measuring. Later i replaced the discs and it was gone....
Regards from Spain
Regards from Spain
#17
thanks for the heads up, Nathan
#18
I learned the oem discs tend to warp when they get really hot, dont know if this is typical for certain years or if it is a common problem.
Might be a good reason to go for a set of Wave/Galfer or any other good quality brand...
I changed to GSXR 6-pot calipers last weekend, added a set of HEL stainless steel braided brake lines and almost made a unintentional stoppie when i clamped hard the first time....lol
Regards from Spain
Might be a good reason to go for a set of Wave/Galfer or any other good quality brand...
I changed to GSXR 6-pot calipers last weekend, added a set of HEL stainless steel braided brake lines and almost made a unintentional stoppie when i clamped hard the first time....lol
Regards from Spain
#19
I learned the oem discs tend to warp when they get really hot, dont know if this is typical for certain years or if it is a common problem.
Might be a good reason to go for a set of Wave/Galfer or any other good quality brand...
I changed to GSXR 6-pot calipers last weekend, added a set of HEL stainless steel braided brake lines and almost made a unintentional stoppie when i clamped hard the first time....lol
Regards from Spain
Might be a good reason to go for a set of Wave/Galfer or any other good quality brand...
I changed to GSXR 6-pot calipers last weekend, added a set of HEL stainless steel braided brake lines and almost made a unintentional stoppie when i clamped hard the first time....lol
Regards from Spain
thanks, nathan
#20
problem: hard braking shudder
took calipers off-all pistons seem to be working, i.e.,they move in and out and grab good.
put long bolt through top hole on fork leg to touch rotor disc, spun wheel, disc rubs bolt only on one section of the rotor. both sides same thing, rubs one spot.
is this a positive test for disc warp or are their other possibilities? thanks Nathan
took calipers off-all pistons seem to be working, i.e.,they move in and out and grab good.
put long bolt through top hole on fork leg to touch rotor disc, spun wheel, disc rubs bolt only on one section of the rotor. both sides same thing, rubs one spot.
is this a positive test for disc warp or are their other possibilities? thanks Nathan
#23
I still think you should try a set of stock or HRC brake pads. Too bad you tossed yours. Somebody must have a set lying around.
You didn't have a problem. Changed brake lines and pads. Then you had a problem.
Regards back to Spain!
You didn't have a problem. Changed brake lines and pads. Then you had a problem.
Regards back to Spain!
#24
thanks nathan
#25
thanks nathan
#26
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Wow! just came across this informative article that may help some of us filter out some of the mystery surrounding brakes/rotors/break in/warp/judder. The article is automotive/cast iron oriented, but seems to be relevant to motorcycles as well.
Wow! just came across this informative article that may help some of us filter out some of the mystery surrounding brakes/rotors/break in/warp/judder. The article is automotive/cast iron oriented, but seems to be relevant to motorcycles as well.
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