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correct procedure-fork alignment????

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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:28 PM
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correct procedure-fork alignment????

Is there a correct method to get the forks to align themselves before tightening everything on the front end? I read on brake tech site to compress and release a few times to set the front properly, then tighten. what? losen everything but the clipons and push up and down? tighten in what order?
Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:38 PM
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send me those wheels and Ill tell ya
Old Apr 10, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Truckinduc
send me those wheels and Ill tell ya
sure. I'll ship them out soon as i get em. were you biddin on em?

hey, what the hell are doing wasting time posting. get busy on those fork braces, you got about 20 or 30 to make. Hell, you'll be gettin an MV Augusta with all those bucks you're gonna be makin.

Last edited by nath981; Apr 10, 2009 at 10:13 PM.
Old Apr 10, 2009 | 10:56 PM
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nope, Ill be getting a, hopefully, working knee with those bucks.

I didnt bid on the wheels, I wish I could have, but debt wont allow it.

You got a killer deal, hopefully the buell front wheel I setup will have the same effect.
Old Apr 10, 2009 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by nath981
Is there a correct method to get the forks to align themselves before tightening everything on the front end? I read on brake tech site to compress and release a few times to set the front properly, then tighten. what? losen everything but the clipons and push up and down? tighten in what order?
I'll tell you how I did it. After installing Race Tech springs, I decided to pull the fork tubes up 11mm. I cranked off the bolts of the upper and lower triple clamps. I jacked up the forks. I placed the edge of a 2mm thick washer and the base of a 9mm bullet between the clip-on ring and the top triple clamp. I let down the front end and torqued up the bolts. Use your imagination and get the forks to be the exact same measure above the top triple and you're done.
Old Apr 10, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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losen everything but the clipons and push up and down?

whatever you do DONT do that
Old Apr 11, 2009 | 01:15 AM
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yeah i wouldnt do that
Old Apr 11, 2009 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Truckinduc
nope, Ill be getting a, hopefully, working knee with those bucks.

I didnt bid on the wheels, I wish I could have, but debt wont allow it.

You got a killer deal, hopefully the buell front wheel I setup will have the same effect.
you're working on fixing a knee and I'm working on breaking one, huh?

the Buell wheel: necessity is the mother of invention, and you are definitely an inventor. speaking of which, did you mount your steering stabilizer. I need the fork collar to attempt to mount mine. Can you make another one from the template you made?? or should I get one elsewhere?

killer deal: I hope so. I shouldn't have. it's the most I've ever spent on an upgrade cause I'm basically poor(credit cards are bad). I believe the price was fair and would have bought them right off, but I was hoping someone would have snatched them up so I wouldn't have to deal with it. If I had the means, I would have already bought the lightest wheels I could have long ago. I will buy **** that gets me around corners quicker cause that's what I love about riding. Going straight is something i tolerate to get to turns. Tires: try to use up the outsides before the middles-yeah!

thanks, Nathan
Old Apr 11, 2009 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RK1
I'll tell you how I did it. After installing Race Tech springs, I decided to pull the fork tubes up 11mm. I cranked off the bolts of the upper and lower triple clamps. I jacked up the forks. I placed the edge of a 2mm thick washer and the base of a 9mm bullet between the clip-on ring and the top triple clamp. I let down the front end and torqued up the bolts. Use your imagination and get the forks to be the exact same measure above the top triple and you're done.
okay, I was thinking that I had to losen the axle and pinch bolts. Don't you do this? then tighten in what order? Also, I cranked the triple clamp bearings down hard with a large screw driver and hammer, but they still don't bind. I don't understand why???

thanks, Nathan
Old Apr 11, 2009 | 09:00 AM
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Here's the method I use....

Keep the axle "loose" (finger tighten the axle bolt, and leave the axle pinch bolts loose).... get the forks to the height you want them measuring accuratly, tighten the triples (top and bottom) on one fork completely (say the right side). Then tighten just the top triple bolt on the opposite side (left)... Compress the front end a few times using the brakes. Then torque the lower triple on the left side. This should set the forks in place.

Now, tighten the axle bolt completely. Then tighten the lower pinch bolts on the right side fork. Compress the front end a few times with the brake again. Then torque the left side pinch bolts.... then enjoy.

J.
Old Apr 11, 2009 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nath981
okay, I was thinking that I had to losen the axle and pinch bolts. Don't you do this?
Nathan;

I didn't, but I never removed the wheel or even took the forks off the bike. I just swapped out the springs and pulled up the tubes. Since everything else was fine before my only concern was making sure both tubes were at the exact same height.
Old Apr 11, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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Install the forks and set them to the right height with the top triple clamp.If you pull them through the top clamp,make sure they are both at the same height ( use a good ruler/caliper/whatever). Tighten top clamp and leave the bottom clamp finger tight.
Now install wheel,calipers and leave the axle finger tight.
Spin the front wheel as fast as you can by hand and use the brake to stop it, this "shocks" the forks into alignment.Do this 2 or 3 times. Now tighten the axle,axle clamps and lower triple clamp, install fender and brake line brackets.... Job done!
Thanks to Hawkrider for this.....
Old Apr 11, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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The only thing I would add is that if the top triple clamp is misaligned, the forks will be misaligned.

I loosen the top nut on the top triple clamp, so it will rotate in to alignment, but tight enough to serve as a height reference.

The lower triple clamp bores are the primary alignment, due to their length. I install the front wheel and tighten the pinch bolts. Then tighten the lower triple clamps in stages in an alternating pattern. Next is the top nut on the top triple clamp. Then the top triple clamp pinch bolts.
Old Apr 12, 2009 | 09:23 AM
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thanks for all the advice. It's amazing that there are so many diff ways of doing the same thing, huh. Evidently, we have a lot of thinkers on this forum, and I aint one of them.lol

I have never done any of this before and, I guess luckily, never had a problem til now, even though the triples were bent(didn't find out til recently). I just losened everything and tightened top and bottom triples alternately, then tighten the axle and then the pinch bolts last. Never had any brake shudder or handling problems. Had the hawk wide open in 6th gear several times, laid over on bumpy turns, for years and never knew that triples were bent. Only symptom was hands off veer to the right which i attributed to marks off on swingarm. Then I foused on this and made certain that rear wheel alignment was right by measuring, and it still veered right. All I would have had to do was to look over the ever present tank bag that hid the alignment mark on top triple and I would have discovered the bent triples. stupido!

I'm going to losen things up and try the brake shock thing and see what happens. I still have to replace the triples with the ones I just bought from Zedicus, so everything's comin apart again, ****. report back later.

thanks, nathan

Last edited by nath981; Apr 12, 2009 at 09:32 AM.
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 06:29 AM
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losened everything up except the clipons and forks moved up and down freely. spun front wheel and hit brake to shock into alignment. Tightened everything up and wnet for a spin. No dice. brakes still shudder when clamped hard. Next will take off calipers and see if all pistons are operating and check flatness of pads.
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 06:52 AM
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Is it possible the brake discs are warped? Maybe you want to check the discs, i had the same symptoms with a shudder while braking hard, went through all the stages of aligning and measuring. Later i replaced the discs and it was gone....

Regards from Spain
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Firestorm996
Is it possible the brake discs are warped? Maybe you want to check the discs, i had the same symptoms with a shudder while braking hard, went through all the stages of aligning and measuring. Later i replaced the discs and it was gone....

Regards from Spain
****, i was hoping that wasn't the case. i guess I'm going to figure out a way to check them. Disconcerting, because when you need to get on the binders hard, you don't need brake shudder mitigating front tire traction.

thanks for the heads up, Nathan
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 09:02 AM
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I learned the oem discs tend to warp when they get really hot, dont know if this is typical for certain years or if it is a common problem.
Might be a good reason to go for a set of Wave/Galfer or any other good quality brand...

I changed to GSXR 6-pot calipers last weekend, added a set of HEL stainless steel braided brake lines and almost made a unintentional stoppie when i clamped hard the first time....lol

Regards from Spain
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Firestorm996
I learned the oem discs tend to warp when they get really hot, dont know if this is typical for certain years or if it is a common problem.
Might be a good reason to go for a set of Wave/Galfer or any other good quality brand...

I changed to GSXR 6-pot calipers last weekend, added a set of HEL stainless steel braided brake lines and almost made a unintentional stoppie when i clamped hard the first time....lol

Regards from Spain
never had a problem til I put the galpher lines and pads on. I'm going to take them apart and see if i can determine warped disc/other.

thanks, nathan
Old Apr 15, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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problem: hard braking shudder

took calipers off-all pistons seem to be working, i.e.,they move in and out and grab good.

put long bolt through top hole on fork leg to touch rotor disc, spun wheel, disc rubs bolt only on one section of the rotor. both sides same thing, rubs one spot.

is this a positive test for disc warp or are their other possibilities? thanks Nathan
Old Apr 15, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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sounds warped to me.
Old Apr 15, 2009 | 02:28 PM
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Just a idea: try a front wheel from a buddies hawk, takes 15 minutes and you know...

Regards from Spain
Old Apr 15, 2009 | 02:37 PM
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I still think you should try a set of stock or HRC brake pads. Too bad you tossed yours. Somebody must have a set lying around.

You didn't have a problem. Changed brake lines and pads. Then you had a problem.



Regards back to Spain!
Old Apr 15, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Firestorm996
Just a idea: try a front wheel from a buddies hawk, takes 15 minutes and you know...

Regards from Spain
yeah that would be a good idea but I don't know anyone with a hawk around here. I do have a friend with an 05 600 f4i. i don't know if it would change over, but I think it would.

thanks nathan
Old Apr 15, 2009 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RCVTR
I still think you should try a set of stock or HRC brake pads. Too bad you tossed yours. Somebody must have a set lying around.

You didn't have a problem. Changed brake lines and pads. Then you had a problem.



Regards back to Spain!
yeah i could kick myself in the butt for tossin them. did you ever try that method of checking the straightness? seems like it has to be accurate when you do it unless something else is bent?

thanks nathan
Old Apr 16, 2009 | 05:18 AM
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http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Wow! just came across this informative article that may help some of us filter out some of the mystery surrounding brakes/rotors/break in/warp/judder. The article is automotive/cast iron oriented, but seems to be relevant to motorcycles as well.
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