Clutch problem
08-31-2010, 12:51 PM
#1
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Clutch problem
So I used a search and didnt see this problem so here I go.
The past few days Ive been having a problem. When Im at a light and in 1st, simply holding in the clutch will not keep the bike from actually going into 1st a little and drifting into oncoming traffic. I can keep the bike still by using either the rear or front brake, but eventually the bike gets pissy that its sort of in gear and not being allowed to go, and thus, shuts off, with me making flabergasted head shakes at my gas tank as if I can peer through it to give my disappointed look to my engine. Please help.
I also have always had some odd noises while riding, but I cannot really describe them. Its kind of like a rubbing sound.... sort of... I dont know.... is anyone with superhawk savvy near Eastern NC who would like to take a ride with me and help me diagnose the problem? I'll buy lunch.
The past few days Ive been having a problem. When Im at a light and in 1st, simply holding in the clutch will not keep the bike from actually going into 1st a little and drifting into oncoming traffic. I can keep the bike still by using either the rear or front brake, but eventually the bike gets pissy that its sort of in gear and not being allowed to go, and thus, shuts off, with me making flabergasted head shakes at my gas tank as if I can peer through it to give my disappointed look to my engine. Please help.
I also have always had some odd noises while riding, but I cannot really describe them. Its kind of like a rubbing sound.... sort of... I dont know.... is anyone with superhawk savvy near Eastern NC who would like to take a ride with me and help me diagnose the problem? I'll buy lunch.
08-31-2010, 01:06 PM
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There is no adjustment to our clutch, what you describe is 'creep'. Could be caused by low fluid level or a worn (or contaminated) master cylinder. Ditto the slave cylinder.
In the category of cheap and easy, do a 100% flush, refill and bleed with new fluid. If the problem persists, look to rebuilding the master cylinder. Can't help with the odd noises, lived through the sixties and several 155 db concerts, can't hear much anymore, or so my wife claims.
Luck out there.
In the category of cheap and easy, do a 100% flush, refill and bleed with new fluid. If the problem persists, look to rebuilding the master cylinder. Can't help with the odd noises, lived through the sixties and several 155 db concerts, can't hear much anymore, or so my wife claims.
Luck out there.
08-31-2010, 01:11 PM
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gah.... okiedokie.... If I just had my brakes replaced in the last month PLEASE tell me it could be because of something they did and thus I could get them to do it for me for free..... please.... anybody? PLEASE
08-31-2010, 01:20 PM
#5
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Brakes and clutch isn't even remotely connected... So no luck on that... The fluid flush should be something everybody is capable of doing, no need for a workshop... Basic tools, basic knowledge... Just follow the step by step manual in the service manual...
08-31-2010, 01:26 PM
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On a related note, I have been having a lot of trouble finding neutral lately. It just pops right past into second... with some bike wiggling I can find it eventually but it is much more difficult to find now than it was a week ago. Any correlation?
08-31-2010, 01:43 PM
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Unless you have a shift kit in there, first and second is kind of like shifting a tractor, hard and clunky. As others have pointed out, it may be time to bleed your clutch. What color is the fluid in the clutch master cylinder? If it is not yellow/clear it is time to change it. Just like bleeding a car's brakes don't let it run dry.
08-31-2010, 01:54 PM
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Im going to go with a holy cow.... and Im also going to get a new mechanic.... the guy who inspected the bike before I bought it prolly should have told me that the clutch reservoir was empty..... not discolored mind you.... empty.... so... DOT4 is it? outstanding....
08-31-2010, 02:33 PM
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Why get a new mechanic? Get the mechanic that should work on the bike of the couch... Ie You... Lazy bum...
There is no way I will ever trust a wrenchmonkey to make a bike safe to ride... It's my *** on the line if things go wrong, so if I get on a bike and fail to inspect stuff like that... It's not the mechanics fault... It's my own damned fault, and nobody else's... Same goes for Camelninja...
08-31-2010, 02:46 PM
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Eeep! Wrong!... Bunch of handholding sizzys... (BTW please... Take this as intended... I like you guys, but sometimes you are just to PC...)
Why get a new mechanic? Get the mechanic that should work on the bike of the couch... Ie You... Lazy bum...
There is no way I will ever trust a wrenchmonkey to make a bike safe to ride... It's my *** on the line if things go wrong, so if I get on a bike and fail to inspect stuff like that... It's not the mechanics fault... It's my own damned fault, and nobody else's... Same goes for Camelninja...
Why get a new mechanic? Get the mechanic that should work on the bike of the couch... Ie You... Lazy bum...
There is no way I will ever trust a wrenchmonkey to make a bike safe to ride... It's my *** on the line if things go wrong, so if I get on a bike and fail to inspect stuff like that... It's not the mechanics fault... It's my own damned fault, and nobody else's... Same goes for Camelninja...
No one will give a rat's *** about your hide like you do.
Last edited by RWhisen; 08-31-2010 at 02:54 PM.
08-31-2010, 02:52 PM
#13
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08-31-2010, 03:36 PM
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I agree that I should be the one getting up and doing it, hence the questions followed by action. One cannot attempt to remedy problems until they understand them. The fact that I am asking, and then going to the auto store should show you my intent to become more intimately involved with the goings on of my shawk. The kick off the couch is no longer neccessary once I say Im off to the store. But its cool, you have to maintain your tough on newbies stance, I get it. Not offended, nor am I mad, In fact, here's a freebie,
Which side of the handlebar thingies is the throttle majiggy on? There you go :-)
Thanks for all the help guys, I got the bleeder and the DOT4, Im going to work on it tomorrow right after class. Goodbye creep.
Which side of the handlebar thingies is the throttle majiggy on? There you go :-)
Thanks for all the help guys, I got the bleeder and the DOT4, Im going to work on it tomorrow right after class. Goodbye creep.
08-31-2010, 04:17 PM
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I agree that I should be the one getting up and doing it, hence the questions followed by action. One cannot attempt to remedy problems until they understand them. The fact that I am asking, and then going to the auto store should show you my intent to become more intimately involved with the goings on of my shawk. The kick off the couch is no longer neccessary once I say Im off to the store. But its cool, you have to maintain your tough on newbies stance, I get it. Not offended, nor am I mad, In fact, here's a freebie,
Which side of the handlebar thingies is the throttle majiggy on? There you go :-)
Thanks for all the help guys, I got the bleeder and the DOT4, Im going to work on it tomorrow right after class. Goodbye creep.
Which side of the handlebar thingies is the throttle majiggy on? There you go :-)
Thanks for all the help guys, I got the bleeder and the DOT4, Im going to work on it tomorrow right after class. Goodbye creep.
08-31-2010, 04:46 PM
#17
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Dam, I enjoy the drama here, on this forum- Last week some whine bag was complaining about the rude directives of using the search, Today -IT IS get off your lazy *** and take responcibilty for yourself.. I enjoy reading the nurturing...Ha Ha
08-31-2010, 04:56 PM
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Yeah, this forum isnt too big on coddling. Luckily I don't take it personally. I catch a little grief, I also usually get an answer, and then I get to work. No harm no foul :-) I really dont mind getting ragged on by tweety since he helped me with a problem with some work I did on the bike earlier. I figure if I only get beat up on 50% of the time Im making out ok :-P
08-31-2010, 05:22 PM
#20
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Actually, I attempt to ask an intellegent, well thought question. Yet, it has been a learning experience-( something similiar to boot camp) Direct, un-bias, intellegent, proven information. With a senfield format- truely entertainment...
08-31-2010, 06:06 PM
#21
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While you're at it, I would suggest checking your brake fluid (use DOT 4). A flush there is probably due as well. Then do an overall safety check, including: chain adjustment and condition, tire pressure, brake pad wear, axle nut torque, etc. A member on here had the axle slide out while he was riding home from getting a front tire installed.
08-31-2010, 06:10 PM
#22
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I read about that one, that was nearly a disaster for him. As it was he was able to get it stopped before doing real damage to himself. Just further reinforces the advantage of working on your bike. You learn what to look for during your preride inspection and can easily recognize when something isn't right. There was another guy who had the spacers left out of his front wheel after service too. Scary stuff....
09-01-2010, 08:14 AM
#23
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Ok so I bled the clutch as per the instructions, and now it is nice and tight. I can shift it easily into first and it no longer creeps.... in fact I am having the opposite problem. I cannot get it to even begin to roll until the clutch is almost all the way out, and on a flat surface, and revving up to about 5000 rpms (much to my neighbors chagrin) I still cannot get it up to speed before I let go of the clutch completely. Did I somehow overbleed or something equally stupid like that, or did I not bleed enough? Help me :-P Ok tweety :-) take your shots my man, Im ready
09-01-2010, 08:27 AM
#24
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Ok so I bled the clutch as per the instructions, and now it is nice and tight. I can shift it easily into first and it no longer creeps.... in fact I am having the opposite problem. I cannot get it to even begin to roll until the clutch is almost all the way out, and on a flat surface, and revving up to about 5000 rpms (much to my neighbors chagrin) I still cannot get it up to speed before I let go of the clutch completely. Did I somehow overbleed or something equally stupid like that, or did I not bleed enough? Help me :-P Ok tweety :-) take your shots my man, Im ready
That's about how it's supposed to be, engages at the outer part of the lever movement... Don't need no 5000 rpm though, just let go of the clutch completely instead...
Could be that you still have some airbubbles in there... A classic is that it sits at the banjobolt at the lever... Protect everything with rags... Over do it!... Then bleed the banjo just a wee bit... Make sure the container is full when you do this, so you don't suck in more bubbles...
If all else fails, tie the handle to the bar over night and it usually gets the bubbles to come out when you bleed it the day after...
09-01-2010, 08:46 AM
#26
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ok so I went back out there after letting it sit for a while and it is at least ride-able. it really still feels odd, like its not engaging until the last millimeter of clutch release which seems really odd. Just in case I am going to tie the lever to the bar like you suggested and bleed it a little tomorrow. That said, if I have to get used to it like this, by god I will, and ride it hard I shall. Unfortunately I got the bike fixed just in time for Hurricane Earl to drop a little hurt on Eastern NC. Ah well, the roads will eventually be cleared again, and I shall be back in the saddle. Thanks for all the help guys.
Last edited by Camelninja; 09-01-2010 at 08:48 AM. Reason: addition
09-01-2010, 09:14 AM
#28
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You could always buy some aftermarket levers that would change the "feel" of it. There are some made that have adjustments to them but they only change the position of the lever, they don't do anything to the throw of the master cylinder or affect when the clutch engages.
