Clutch Bounce
 

Or at least it has been described as that, chatter is another term.

Launching the SH hard (or even moderately fast) causes what is sometimes described as chatter or disk bounce... the drive and driven plates not fully engaging each other.

So Im thinking self.... what to do....

with 32,000 plus miles a new clutch would not be a horrible idea. The basket is not notched so that is good...

Measure the driven steels for flatness and thickness and replace if bad, replace the drive fiber disks and some new heaver springs I think.

Focusing on just the clutch chatter now,,,, has anyone found a clutch brand / spring and clutch disk combo that reduces that launch chatter? Disk bounce?

Moriwaki offered racing clutch springs in their kit. It might be worth asking Roger D.

I believe Barnett offered stiffer clutch springs for the VTR, as well.

Eric, I had (have) the same issue on BOTH my hawks. They just dont like long clutch slippage on launches. So on my A (daily) bike I bit the bullet and replaced everything, friction, driven plates and springs and STILL have the clutch grabiness and chatter on high rpm clutch slips.

So I really dont think its ever gonna launch like a cbr off the line on slippage. Just some feedback to work with.

BTW, the clutch I removed looked fine but with a new one in hand, I swapped it anyway. That was @ around 25K miles.

Thank you for bringing this up. I've mentioned it a few times and don't think it has anything to do with wear or damage because every superhawk I've had (I think I'm on number 6) has done it, including my first which was brand new. Motorcycle.com also mentioned it way back when they tested it and the TL1000S at the dragstrip. I've heard folks mention heavier springs but I'd love to hear someone who eliminated it and how if it's even possible.

swap to a cable clutch as ive read the problem is hydraulic , just a thought

Mine did it when stock, and kept doing it when I swapped the springs, and later the entire clutch for a stouter unit...

The biggest difference, altough it didn't "cure" it, a new steel braided clutch line (matching the brake lines) made it noticably less pronounced...

Still does, albeit less so, and with those two clues, I'm pretty convinced that it is in fact a hydraulic characteristic...

Mine doesn't chatter. I had to replace the fibers when I first got the bike, I used new, well soaked OEM plates. I have a braided line and a Brembo GP billet radial clutch master. I don't know if my bike has stock springs or not.... RCVTR???

Do either of you two remember how long you needed the line to be? I'm thinking 36in should work but I don't want to get a line and it be too short. Thanks for any imput!