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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 01:24 PM
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carb sync

So I made one of the manometers. Like found on here (Thanks). I am unsure as to (after a search) find the answer Im looking for. After syncing at a slightly elevated idle, then hold the throttle to about 4-5k rpm, its pretty far off balance. is this normal? and if not, how to correct? i cant get idle and elevated rpms to match well. thanks.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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I just re jetted and synced and find the same thing. At 1200 idle, the fluid in the tubes is even (very jumpy but even) adn when raping the throttle the front vaculme beceoms stronger. If I slowly roll on it goes back and forth until about 4k then the front raises a little. The bounciness goes away once some throttle is applied. I'm not sure if this helps at all but it's what my bike is doing.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 03:16 PM
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I balanced it more even at close to 4k instead of idle. My mind says it would be better to have even pressure when Im getting into a load and less uneven as the rpms climb. Compared to setting them even at idle and be VERY far off as te rpms climb. Whats your thoughts on that?
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 03:37 PM
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My though is I'm going to hope the more experienced hop on and help us out. This is my first multi carb bike so this is new territory for me.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Fistfullofthrotl718
So I made one of the manometers. Like found on here (Thanks). I am unsure as to (after a search) find the answer Im looking for. After syncing at a slightly elevated idle, then hold the throttle to about 4-5k rpm, its pretty far off balance. is this normal? and if not, how to correct? i cant get idle and elevated rpms to match well. thanks.
And you wont.

Sync them at idle.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
And you wont.

Sync them at idle.
Not trying to challenge you. Im just looking to get a better understanding of how this bike works. With that being said, why wouldn't getting more even pressure in the meat of the power be better for performance? Or is there any good documentation online that i can get a good insight on the hows and why's of these carbs? Thanks man. i appreciate it.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 04:13 PM
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In a perfect world ...you would want air/atomized fuel flows matched in both carbs through the air cleaner, intake tract, carb, manifold, head and valves at all RPM and all vehicle air speeds.

Reality is ...it aint happening with any close to stock,, and likely not ever no matter how much R&D you put into it.

All that said........ My bike is pretty close on vac draw from 1800 where I set sycn to say a 3-4k steady RPM check
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 04:19 PM
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Follow up question, should I raise my idle to 1800 to set the sync then lower it back to 1200 after the sync? I have been trying to sync at 1200. I did put 50 pilot jets in the lines to calm down the movement of fluid a little.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by KCCO
Follow up question, should I raise my idle to 1800 to set the sync then lower it back to 1200 after the sync? I have been trying to sync at 1200. I did put 50 pilot jets in the lines to calm down the movement of fluid a little.
1200 is on the low side of "standard" and I personally like mine at about 1400~1500
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Thanks, I got them as close as they are going to get today. Within a cm or two of each other. Much better than what it was when I started.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
In a perfect world ...you would want air/atomized fuel flows matched in both carbs through the air cleaner, intake tract, carb, manifold, head and valves at all RPM and all vehicle air speeds.

Reality is ...it aint happening with any close to stock,, and likely not ever no matter how much R&D you put into it.

All that said........ My bike is pretty close on vac draw from 1800 where I set sycn to say a 3-4k steady RPM check
So is this the reason, or at least part of the reasoning for the different jetting per carb? To compensate for the pressure change after throttle is cracked?
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 07:56 PM
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I set my idle up higher for sync (1800-2000) then drop it to around 1300 for riding. This isn't based off of anything other than the manual saying to take measurements at idle and a higher rpm and sync them in the middle of that. Take that with a grain of salt.
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