To make this as easy as possible you can recap the image and video posts here
http://wp.me/pYEbB-82



Pics and videos as I move along.

Hopefully this will help others who will be cleaning their carbs.
If you see anything I am doing wrong please say something!!


YouTube - ‪Carb Job Part 1 Tank Off‬‏

Overview with the tank off


YouTube - ‪Carb Job Part 2 Hoses‬‏

Petcock connections


YouTube - ‪Carb Job Part 3 Inside the air-box‬‏

Inside the airbox


Look Ma no velocity stacks!


Air-box removed

Left side between Frame and carbs


Right-side between frame and carbs


Carb Sync adjuster


Throttle cables


YouTube - ‪Carb Job Part 4 Carbs exposed‬‏

 

YouTube - ‪Carb Job Part 5‬‏

Throttle bolts and nuts


Upper elbow removed


YouTube - ‪Carb Job Part 5.5‬‏

Carb side removed


Where is my throttle?!

 

Well a couple of quick things.

First where you have the fuel line tie wrapped to the carb stays actually goes through the the pound clip on the frame above the thermostat.

Second, there is no need to remove the throttle, just remove the 2 screws that hold the cable stay to the carbs themselves as it is a bit easier.

 

Disconnected Carb Bodies

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqzkIywVPT0&hd=1

Throttle Position sensor long view


Throttle Position sensor Close up say cheese!


Coolant line, I disconnected this to drain excess fluid. Be sure to put a pan beneath this


This is the boot that connects the front carb to the engine. You only need to loosen the top one. Its 8mm btw


Coolant line (front), be careful while removing these


Fuel enrichment plunger Rear. 10mm open wrench. Pull the boot back first.


Look Ma no carbs!


Time to drain

 

Inside the carbs

Spring is here! and oh christ is it hard to get back in


Boing!


This is a serious needle.


Chamber with butterfly valve below.


This is where the Needle and slide go


I threaded one of the diaphram cap screws and wiggled this assembly side to side until it came out.


Chemtool, this got really murky with the second set.


Floats


This is what happens when you run chemtool and seafoam through your carbs every few tanks.


Spring checks out.


If you dont use chemtool regularly this is why you should.


Butterfly


Open, I cleaned up the carbon deposit ring around the valve.


Maybe this is my problem? What does this say to yall?



Maybe this is my problem? What does this say to yall?

 

Space reserved and next

 

Sapce reserved Front carb

 

space reserved rear carb

 

This is the sync mod I made.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxbaoHRJ6Hs&hd=1

 

Space reserved re assembly

 

space reserved Sync (fingers crossed)

 

I have a kinda important question. Do I really need to replace the drain plug o rings? It says to, but I dont have any.

 

If they are not cracked it's fine to reuse them.

 

The two small hoses that are zip tied in between your carbs... those are better off not woven into the frame of the carbs. Something about a plugged vent under heavy braking or something. Just pull them out and aim them down into the bike when you re-assemble.

 

That was on early models and the problem was that the holes in the carb stays were a little small and pinched the vent lines slightly which caused the rear carb to puke fuel into the front carb under heavy braking.

So I'm not sure if it has any bearing on later bikes, as it was supposedly fixed though I still route the lines straight down on any bikes I work on.

Though it is nice to see you have been paying attention Ian

 

Well I ran into a problem.
The needles are realtively clean I have them chilling in some B12 right now with some flakes having developed at the bottom, problem is that the pilot screw is not a screw but a funky shaped circle with a portion taken out. I really wanted to clean out what was underneath there. Now I am worried all this work and I wont correct the problem I was having at all.

YouTube - ‪06-22-11 Carb problems? You decide‬‏

all of the needles were screwed all the way down. is this correct?

I will let this sit for a bit re assemble and move to the rear carb.

 

Which needles were screwed all the way dawn?

As for the pilot screws, that is the Honda "D" shaped screw head. You can either make your own "D" driver out of a piece of brass tubing and then flatten one side or take a dremel and cut some std. screwdriver slots in them.

 

I am talking about the main jet and the pilot jet. I was under the impression that they needed to be tightened and loosened a certain amount. I guess not.

 

No they should be screwed all the way in, just don't crank down on them or they will never come back out. Just seat them lightly and you are good to go.

 

I've never drained any coolant when pulling my carbs, and I've never lost more than a few drops when removing the hoses from the carbs.

Did you remove the jets and emulsion tubes? Those should be soaked then blown out with carb spray, followed by compressed air, if possible.

And like 8541Hawk said, go easy on tightening the jets, brass is very soft.

Patience is important when reinstalling the "choke" cables too. Very fine plastic threads...use light finger pressure to start the threads.

Isn't this fun?

 

I just uploaded the inside the carbs section. Emulsion tubes? Im not sure what that is. you can see all the things I took out in the pics above.

 

So I made a huge effing mistake. I broke off the threads on the rear cylinder choke plunger! its made of plastic btw. I am not sure what to do now. I think it might possibly still work but am not sure. oh boy.



Oh Snap!

 

Am I going to need number 11 on this page to replace that part?

Xtreme Powersports' 2000 Honda Street Bike VTR1000F SUPER HAWK Parts List

any Ideas on how to get the threaded collar out? the plunger portion is stuck inside beyond the threads so I have to wirk with the circuit partially inserted. gah I feel so stupid. it snapped off when I was getting the wrench onto it to loosen it so I could seat it better. It is very delicate.

 

Well that's you lesson on never crank down on any carb parts......

 

Lol it was hand tight and I was loosening it. damn such a silly part to break after going through so much other stuff.

looks like it happens often too

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...50/#post199309

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ng-carb-25462/

I need to figure out how to get it out.. hmm

 

The assy. is a lot cheaper here: Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts $22.38

 

And if it was hand tight and you were loosing it, you win the hamfist award for the week.....

 

Oh neato thanks! the only thing would be shipping. The place I linked to is bicycle distance from my house and has no shipping fee if it goes to the store. I am going to call them up on monday to see if they have it in stock. I am stopping for the day. now that I know the proper sequence for getting the carbs off I can take them out much faster tomorrow. I woke up early today and purposely took my time. it is really only a 1.5 hour job if I get all the tools out and prepped before hand. This was a great learning experience and now that I have done my first carb job I feel like a man LMAO.

I hope this doesnt take too long. If I go awhile without riding I turn into a whinny little bitch.

 

lol I know right! didnt even twist it. I was mounting the nut with the open ended wrench and it just suddenly snapped. it was the damnedest thing. Like I had barley even touched it.

 

If it felt hand tight, the PO probably over tightened it and broke it part way through. You just happened to be the lucky one to follow him.

Use a small Easy-out, it should come out with no problem. Or even a small screwdriver blade might work, if you jam it in there by hand.