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-   -   Bike won't start any more. (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/bike-wont-start-any-more-30319/)

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 01:56 PM

So an interesting thing just happened...

I just put the old petcock back on and started it up one last time before storing it until the new one comes. Gas starting shooting out of the right exhaust pipe (Not the can, the actual exhaust PIPE underneath the bike) This is the rear cylinder.

Gas was coming out of a little hole thats in the exhaust pipe right below a metal tensioner. I realized this was probably because when I put the petcock on last night it was leaking the whole night and gas probably dripped into the exhaust pipe some how. I started the bike up and it just started spewing gas out of the exhausts. After about 15 seconds of it running it stopped shooting gas and just smoked real bad. I turned it off and took the tank back off because I noticed the petcock was still dripping.

Could I have caused any damage?

8541Hawk 05-05-2013 02:44 PM

The float(s) are sticking or the float valve(s) are bad.

You have more than likely filled the crankcase with gas also.

If so you need to drain it and put in fresh oil.....and filter as you have run the engine.

RWhisen 05-05-2013 02:47 PM

Sounds like your cylinder may have filled up with gas which could be bad if it hydrolocked. You wouldn't have been able to start it if that was the problem. Pull your plugs, put a towel over the heads and crank the motor. Turn off the petcock.

Order the petcock kit and rebuild it properly or you will create more problems for yourself. Drain the oil and change oil filter.

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 03:15 PM

I don't think my carb floats are stuck. When I took the tank off this morning I saw a lot of gas around my petcock. It was clearly leaking the entire time last night. I'm also missing a considerate amount of gas in my tank. I think the gas leaked down into the exhaust pipe. But when my petcock arrives I will check the floats.

Bike didn't hydrolock. Still turned on and it ran for a good 30 seconds before I turned it off. It was having trouble running though. But I think it was having a rough time staying on because my vacuum in my petcock doesn't work at all. I don't think any gas got into my pistons but I am going to flush every thing out and put new oil in when I get the new petcock before I start it again.

When I first got the bike I noticed a strong gas smell the second I turned it on. I think the petcock has always leaked and gas had always been getting into the exhaust pipe. I think that's why it always smelled when I turned it on initially.

8541Hawk 05-05-2013 03:19 PM

So how exactly can the gas go from the tank to the exhaust without going through the float bowl?

E.Marquez 05-05-2013 03:54 PM


Originally Posted by Chrisguilday (Post 354304)
I don't think my carb floats are stuck. When I took the tank off this morning I saw a lot of gas around my petcock. It was clearly leaking the entire time last night. I'm also missing a considerate amount of gas in my tank. I think the gas leaked down into the exhaust pipe.

Again still.... You can not have THIS and not have THAT

The only way for gas to get from tank to exhaust is through the carb. Sitting still over night .... the carb floats, the needle seat o ring, or needle and seat allowed gas to flow from tank to cylinders.... That can happen with a leaking O ring, bad needle / seat with or without a working petcock .. but with a bad petcock..... it's a for sure.

RWhisen 05-05-2013 04:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is extremely difficult.....

Attachment 23625

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 04:45 PM

Ah that makes more sense now. For some reason I was thinking you guys were assuming the petcock had nothing to do with it. I was positive the petcock was the culprit which was why I argued it. It didn't occur to me that the float bowls overfilled because of the petcock lol. Was having a dumb moment there.

By the way the gas can get into my exhaust pipe without going through the carbs / engine etc. There's a hole where a bolt used to be. That's why I thought maybe it dripped in there.

RWhisen 05-05-2013 05:03 PM


Originally Posted by Chrisguilday (Post 354319)
Ah that makes more sense now. For some reason I was thinking you guys were assuming the petcock had nothing to do with it. I was positive the petcock was the culprit which was why I argued it. It didn't occur to me that the float bowls overfilled because of the petcock lol. Was having a dumb moment there.

By the way the gas can get into my exhaust pipe without going through the carbs / engine etc. There's a hole where a bolt used to be. That's why I thought maybe it dripped in there.

We are saying the petcock is the FIRST thing that needs to be fixed. If there is no vacuum (bike not running), fuel should not flow if the petcock is working as it is supposed to work.

The second part is that if there is vacuum the fuel should flow but the floats should meter it and not let it overfill the carburetors. When the carbs overfill, fuel flows into the engine filling it up. You'll have to trust us on this one, it does happen.

If you don't check this and what we suspect is true, ALL sorts of bad things can happen and you'll be walking or bumming rides for a considerably longer time.

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 05:07 PM


Originally Posted by RWhisen (Post 354320)
We are saying the petcock is the FIRST thing that needs to be fixed. If there is no vacuum (bike not running), fuel should not flow if the petcock is working as it is supposed to work.

The second part is that if there is vacuum the fuel should flow but the floats should meter it and not let it overfill the carburetors. When the carbs overfill, fuel flows into the engine filling it up. You'll have to trust us on this one, it does happen.

If you don't check this and what we suspect is true, ALL sorts of bad things can happen and you'll be walking or bumming rides for a considerably longer time.

Yeah I understand and agree. I was just not seeing the whole picture before. It makes sense. I had a dirt bike that did the same thing with a faulty petcock which caused the bowls to overflow.

E.Marquez 05-05-2013 05:25 PM


Originally Posted by Chrisguilday (Post 354319)
By the way the gas can get into my exhaust pipe without going through the carbs / engine etc. There's a hole where a bolt used to be. That's why I thought maybe it dripped in there.


What?? Huh??

You have a hole in your exhaust header that a bolt is missing from and gas can leak into it????

Are you talking about an exhaust clamp?

Or?????? Where on the header is this hole? Almost sounds like a threaded bung for an OT sensor to read air fuel ratios

Picture please

RWhisen 05-05-2013 05:31 PM


Originally Posted by E.Marquez (Post 354323)
What?? Huh??

You have a hole in your exhaust header that a bolt is missing from and gas can leak into it????

Are you talking about an exhaust clamp?

Or?????? Where on the header is this hole? Almost sounds like a threaded bung for an OT sensor to read air fuel ratios

Picture please

Stop acting surprised....LOL

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 06:07 PM

I can't tell if hes being serious or not lol. There's a hole where it looks like a clamp used to be.

RWhisen 05-05-2013 06:16 PM

Please post pictures. He's serious.

E.Marquez 05-05-2013 06:23 PM


Originally Posted by Chrisguilday (Post 354328)
I can't tell if hes being serious or not lol. There's a hole where it looks like a clamp used to be.

And with that Im out of here.

Best of luck with your bike.. Hope you find the help you desperately need.

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 06:30 PM


Originally Posted by E.Marquez (Post 354331)
And with that Im out of here.

Best of luck with your bike.. Hope you find the help you desperately need.

Alright, thanks for your help.

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 07:14 PM

For any one who still cares, here is the picture of the hole. This is where gas was squirting out of.


http://i43.tinypic.com/dcuav.jpg

RWhisen 05-05-2013 07:35 PM

OK If you remove that clamp you will see that the "hole" is actually part of the cut out for relief to clamp the pipe. It shouldn't be able to leak air much less gas and I assure you the gas did not go in that way.

You need to get on Ron Ayers website and look at the parts drawings that are on the site. It is up to you to learn about your bike and no better time to start than now.

Look at this to identify which gasket on your pipe is leaking:
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1998>VTR1000F>MUFFLER

You might as well order a new bolt and clamp because I doubt you'll be able to get yours free of the threads without breaking it off.

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 07:39 PM

Yeah I thought it might be that. They are like flaps right? So the metal can bend a tiny bit to make a more secure fit? I just saw gas literally dripping on that part of the exhaust when I first took a quick glance and thought maybe it had made its way in there some how. But the carbs over flowing defintely makes a lot more sense.

It isn't actually a hole, the exhaust pipe slides past that "Hole" but gas was still managing to squirt through it some how. Maybe its not tightened enough.

Chrisguilday 05-05-2013 07:50 PM

I don't see a gasket for the that part of the pipe. #8 says rubber, but I don't see anything else.

Also, how important is the gasket / bolt / clamp? I paid $1600 for the bike. I just put $100 into it, and I have about $200 left in savings haha. $120 of that goes to a new front tire, and the rest to new fluids / possibly break pads etc. I understand bikes cost money, and some times a lot of money. But if it is some thing that is not going to kill me to wait a week or two then I'd rather get it after I buy every thing that I "must" have.

VtrInMtl 05-06-2013 04:38 AM

You should go find the guy that sold you that thing (that we tried to talk you out of buying in your other thread....) and see if he will give you (some or all of) your money back.

E.Marquez 05-06-2013 05:40 AM


Originally Posted by Chrisguilday (Post 354344)
I don't see a gasket for the that part of the pipe. #8 says rubber, but I don't see anything else.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/oem...MBB4F1800B.gif

The gaskets are number 6, and yes a leak free exhaust system is important if you want it to run right.

Chrisguilday 05-06-2013 09:51 AM


Originally Posted by VtrInMtl (Post 354352)
You should go find the guy that sold you that thing (that we tried to talk you out of buying in your other thread....) and see if he will give you (some or all of) your money back.

I may not have gotten the best deal in the world, but at least I bought a bike that was relatively cheap and I'll also learn a thing or two.

I don't mind buying a bike that's say $1600 and putting $1000 into it and also learn a bit about it, rather then buying a bike that's $2600 that needs nothing and never learning anything.

7moore7 05-06-2013 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by Chrisguilday (Post 354376)
I don't mind buying a bike that's say $1600 and putting $1000 into it and also learn a bit about it, rather then buying a bike that's $2600 that needs nothing and never learning anything.

Great way of approaching it. Also, you'll take some hits from some of the people on here as you do, but it's a tough love kind of thing and a great way to lean; much better than to have everything sugar coated.

Chrisguilday 05-06-2013 10:11 AM


Originally Posted by 7moore7 (Post 354377)
Great way of approaching it. Also, you'll take some hits from some of the people on here as you do, but it's a tough love kind of thing and a great way to lean; much better than to have everything sugar coated.

It's alright, I'm young and stupid so I'm sure I'm not as easy to deal with as some one that is over 30.

Also, I didn't buy this bike with the intention of it being in perfect, or even good condition cosmetically. I probably won't get my moneys worth if I were to put a bunch of money into it making it look new. I just wanted a bike that I could ride around and have fun / get to and from work. I paid $1600, and I think after a few hundred more, it will be more then good enough to ride.

7moore7 05-06-2013 10:18 AM

Best thing I did was buy a junker. But like you said, you won't get a financial return on investment, just a huge amount of knowledge. You can clicky on the picture in my signature to see my project if interested although some of the images got lost in it somehow??? I just realized this, haven't updated that one in awhile ;)

Chrisguilday 05-06-2013 11:04 AM

Wow! Just went through your whole build thread and I honestly haven't seen a bike I liked as much as yours in a long long time. Wish I had the money to do that with mine haha.

Maybe some day...

smokinjoe73 05-06-2013 11:05 AM

The reality is that the one that "needs nothing" will need something in 2 minutes. So there is less disappointment this way.

"all bikes run on used parts" is a sign I saw at a junkyard once.

Just be methodical, bikes dont give you alot of second chances if you install something wrong like a car.

And forget about getting money back. Just move forward.

Chrisguilday 05-09-2013 01:08 PM

Changing the oil / fluids and repairing the petcock as i type this! we will see what happens...

Chrisguilday 05-09-2013 06:27 PM

Good news! Runs great. Rode it about 20 miles today. It is definitely running rich. Previous owner had idle set to 2300 rpm... Put that at 1500 rpm but I think it needs to be at like 1200-1300. The bike makes popping noises on deceleration and some times makes a little backfire when I start it up.

Also, I hear a clacking / ticking noise. Is this normal?

matt365 05-10-2013 08:04 AM

The popping: is the PAIR system still hooked up? Check on that. If its long gone, then yeah, its running rich.

Like you said, put the idle down to 1200rpm.

They all click, if the tensioners are switched for manuals, just try and ignore the ticking.

Chrisguilday 05-10-2013 10:36 AM


Originally Posted by matt365 (Post 354624)
The popping: is the PAIR system still hooked up? Check on that. If its long gone, then yeah, its running rich.

Like you said, put the idle down to 1200rpm.

They all click, if the tensioners are switched for manuals, just try and ignore the ticking.

Not sure if I have manual / new ccts. Any way to check?

I don't think the pair system is removed. This thing in the picture below would be gone if it was right?


http://i42.tinypic.com/ifweav.jpg

smokinjoe73 05-10-2013 11:08 AM

Yes that would be gone. Also, a little cam chain (or whatever) tick is fine or expected cold. Does it make the same sound when warm? They usually dont.

Chrisguilday 05-10-2013 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 (Post 354643)
Yes that would be gone. Also, a little cam chain (or whatever) tick is fine or expected cold. Does it make the same sound when warm? They usually dont.

Definitely louder when cold. Need to do some more testing to tell for sure though.

RWhisen 05-10-2013 02:21 PM

Take a picture of the right side of your engine and post it please. Include both cylinders.

What's up with the gloves? Afraid to get your hands dirty?

Chrisguilday 05-10-2013 07:19 PM


Originally Posted by RWhisen (Post 354649)
Take a picture of the right side of your engine and post it please. Include both cylinders.

What's up with the gloves? Afraid to get your hands dirty?

Not my picture. Will post some pics tomorrow when theres light outside.


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