bike just died, complete loss of power/electricity
 

Currently on the side of the road, waiting for triple a to rescue me. While riding, bike just completely died. No warning. Even tried to beep for my buddy ahead of me, no horn. When I turn the key to on, there's nothing. No lights, gauges, horn.
Prior history is clean. Nothing acting suspicious. Ridden almost daily.
My question?
WTF!? Where do I start? First bank of fuses are good. Nothing visible like torn, ripped or frayed wires...

First check battery connections as they can vibrate loose.

Check the main 30amp fuse and also R/R + Battery.

OK kewl man thanks...another note I tried to pop start it, an nothing. So no spark...an good lookin wicky, that was fast!
I'm suspecting, from what all I've read on this site...it may be the reg rec...it doesn't look stock, or like the nice ones..

Like said above,first check battery connections,can com loose.
Next,you wanna check your starter relay connection and fuse.If that fuse blows,nothing will work.
If that is fine,check wire connectors for corrosion.this can cause problems too.
Check R/R for burning and corrosion.
If all this checks out and are confident everything is fine,check and play around with the starter button.This can cause bike to shut off or headlight not to work.This happened to me with the headlights.
It is possible the starter relay is failing,it will work on and off,my bike would shut off and have no power.I would knock at the starter relay with a screw driver and it would come back on.
Most likely,it's the starter button or Starter relay

Those are all possibilities, but the most likely culprit by far is the regulator. The 30 amp main fuse will be blown. If you are not too far from home, less than 100 miles, and your battery has been working well, then you need to first unplug the RR. Then replace the 30 amp main fuse at the starter solenoid. If you ONLY stick a new fuse in, it will likely blow immediately or withing a short time, and other electrical things will be damaged. Also unplug the headlight to conserve electricity. The bike should start right up and run until the ignition system drains the battery.

When my r/r went out my tachometer stopped working then my speedometer then my lights went dim then it died this all happened in a matter of ten fifteen mins it rode till the battery died. Just my experience

Thought it was just my battery put a good battery in. Rode the bike and did the same things. And when battery was drains bike died

Talked to my buddy and he said the same thing when the r/r goes lights dim and electrical just looses power after the battery dies.said that if lost complete power most likely stater relay or button.but beerhunter has helped me a lot so maybe he knows something about it that I don't so not trying to over rule his answer just letting you know my side hope this helps

Thanks for all the help! Yeah it just kina died. All at once, while riding. I'll look into all the possibilities tomorrow, for now I just swapped it out for the bandit...its still too nice out to start wrenching!

There is a spare 30a fuse in the rubber boot around the starter relay, it is on the bottom

Alright an update guys...

So I have a blown 30 amp fuse..Beerhunters predictions are coming true! LOL
Attachment 24503

And heres a pics of the Reg/Rec...looks like those ones on fleabay for thirty bucks..

Attachment 24504

My poor Hawk!!! NOoooooo....I thought this only happened to my Bandit! LMFAO!!

Attachment 24505

Damn those pics are big...sorry anybody with a crappy connection...I reduced the size to 400x400...live an learn I guess.
So yeah. I'm thinking Reg/Rec at this point. Any sure way to test it? like ohms from pin 'x' to pin 'y'?
And you stand correct aja, there is a spare right in there underneath it all in the rubber boot. I wonder what for...if only to blow again?
All the support is very appreciated guys...

It's the r/r. I wouldn't bother testing it. The one you have looks like a newer stock unit, which can still fail. You will most likely need a new battery also.

You can test them, I'm not sure exactly how though.

I tested might r by setting the meter to make a soil d when it grounded out. Did you put a new fuse on it to see if it would pop again.. mine popped right when I plugged the r/r back in. Get a 08zx6r r/r. That's what I did and my bike charges perfect now.

Instructions
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14380

List of MOSFET r/r's
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=25117

Bandit400man, glad you and your bike are O.K. Thank goodness it didnt' happen as you were passing the worlds 2nd largest winnbago while approaching the worlds largest winnabago. If it does turn out to be your R/R, welcome to the club. Been there, done that. Glad you are O.K.

+1 on aja freeby links for you. Saved a search, but sometimes help for a fellow rider at the time is more important than--give me a fish I eat for the day, teach me to fish and I live for a life time? Learn to fish, after you have the STRENGTH to fish. Just my 2cts.

Sorry for the Jack...

It's all good thanks for all the help guys...

I did put in the new fuse an simply turned the key...everything lit up..headlights, gauges, ect. So maybe my battery isn't fried? I'm assuming I could simply test the voltage? Or would it still like, be screwed up somehow?
So a new reg rec...hmmm...lots of good reading here on that topic.
Thanks again everyone! I'll keep everyone posted on my progress...

When mine went bad I replaced the fuse and everything worked. I couldn't get it started without jumper cables, and once off the cables it would die in a few seconds.

Test your voltage with key off, then with it on. That should give you a good idea of the battery condition. I wouldn't run the bike though as it may cause further damage to the battery.

Cool, thanks...yeah I hadn't planned on actually starting it until I got the right model rr figured out..still reading that long ass post Haha...thinkin on a sing ding dong pn fh012aa...am I on the right track?

yes,you on right track,what bites is that you might have to get new battery.its a maybe,the R/R could have ruined the battery,which in turn,could ruin a new R/R when you put it on.but you haven't been running it since,you you might have saved it.
if the battery is old,than you do want a newer battery,old technology wont work good with newer technology.

Oh an a quick search on fleabay turned up an FH020AA as a updated version of the aforementioned FH012AA? Any EE's out there have any insight?

Thanks saige...the battery looks newer..which doesn't say much lol...I'll just have to test it like aja said...but like I said it just cut right out cold..so I'm hoping minimal damage was done...

Sorry I was away this weekend at a youth retreat with no technology or I would have chimed in. This same thing happened to me a week ago. Doing about 70ish on the highway and suddenly, nothing. All power gone. Got it towed, got home, did some t-shootin and found the fuse on the ignition relay was blown. Two days later I had to bump start the bike because the battery was to low to start it. Ordered a new R/R, changed it out in my work parking lot and now it is running like a champ. I got a new one, aftermarket, shipped it two day from regulatorrectifier.com. Super huge heat sink and over sized to handle the power better. Seems to work well, will have to see the longevity. At $89 I may buy another one just to have around.

Got a part number to share?

You spent @almost 90bucks. Mine was 50 bucks with free shipping. OP look for a 08 Kawasaki zx6r r/r and go from there. You can first d them cheap

Went from there...TONS of options...just crazy to see the price spread...like $20 to over $100...
And funds are tight now (well, all the time LOL) so I'm trying to stay away from the 'get what ya pay for' mantra...

Stay away from regulatorrectifier.com, they sell junk and over price it.

Do a search for local motorcycle salvage yards, you may find it cheaper there

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=64346908180

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=00189070842

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=98880765773

Just a few that were cheap. Sorry about the mobile links.

Don't be sorry about the Mobil links lol I'm on my phone too, while I pretend to work ;)
LOVE the smart phones lol

How about this one?
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=11101823807
That's one of the few that explicitly state FH instead of SH...

UPDATE!!

So I tested the battery...
Key off, at the terminal- 12.55VDC
Key on, lights on, all that- 12.0somethinVDC

So this is telling me my battery may have been spared? 12V seems spot on for a 12 volt battery...

Also, I may spring for this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-SHIND...624e04&vxp=mtr

It's pricy, but would give me a warm fuzzy knowing it would work AND look sexy doin it...

AJA, couldn't you have said I was stupid and wasted my money in a nicer way? ;) Have you had experience with them before? Like do they have a shorter life then the OEM units?

Did you notice if the voltage dropped consistently with the key on? I personally wouldn't waste the money on the r/r when I could get a unit that would work just as good for half the cost, and not to mention its hidden so looks wouldn't matter. I'm cheap though.

Jeremy, I don't like calling people out directly over the internet because it starts senseless arguments, so I tend to passive-aggressively make my point without knowing it. My cousin bought a r/r from them for his Dyna, it was inferior quality and a cheap China knock off, they wouldn't accept a refund or exchange, so that gave me my opinion on them. If you have good luck with yours maybe its hit and miss with that company.

aja- I can check that soon...but since I copied it from fireblades.org already...

"From my service manual for a '97 CBR 900:
(number on OEM part is SH633-12)
To check the regulator with a meter, looking at the reg/rec connector with the three pins on top, they are the yellow wires, the bottom right is the green and the bottom left is the red/white. Ohms between the red/white and each yellow should be between .5k and 10K Ω with the positive lead on the red/white. It should read open with the negative lead on the red/white. Between the green and the yellows, should be the opposite, negative lead on the green = .5k to 10k Ω, positive on green, = open to yellows:"

On mine using that test, the lead on the far right is open. (others @1.5ohm) No resistance. And coincidentally thats the same lead on the connector that looks burned and brown/black...fried Reg/Rec if I ever saw one before LOL

That said i'll now check for voltage drop...

Well I don't know why you have such a bad opinion of them.... I've had one of their R\Rs in my bike for about 5 yrs now with no issues.

Everyone should know ANYthing you buy is hit or miss...if you look hard enough there's somebody that dislikes/loves just about everything ;)

SO!...checked for voltage drop over a thirty second time period (long enough?) and 'key off' was a steady 12.60~.61. 'Key on' was steady 12.04~.05...over thirty seconds.

I just bought a Kawi ZX10 reg/rec off fleabay for $60 and free shipping last month. Now I just have to mount that mother it's huge!

IMHO, holes/vents/slots covertly put into the side fairing near the seat would look sick...put some mesh/screen from the back or even have the heat sink exposed (would you burn your leg??)...though I'll admit I'd be scared to cut up the beautiful blue paint job just to have it look like poop.

So whats the verdict on the battery? any other way to test it?
Want to make sure: 1) that I dont have to buy another one and 2) that when I get another Reg/Rec I wont fry anything by using a possibly faulty battery.

If that battery was mine, I would keep using it.

The battery sounds like it's fine. I would continue to run it. What happens is if the r/r goes bad it either starts sending A/C voltage to the battery if the rectifier goes bad and if the regulator goes bad it quits charging and runs the battery dead deep cycling it which is really hard on it, or it overcharges it and burns it up which could be potentially dangerous.

As far as replacing the fuses and testing you can go to most any autoparts store and get a reseting circuit breaker. This way you can replace it and if it pops again you're not going through a ton of fuses trying to diog the issue.

Like the others said, if the battery was bad you would notice an immediate drop in voltage, when mine went bad it dropped around 1 volt per second.

When you replace it be sure to replace the burned connector, you may need to cut the wire back a little too.

Sounds like you got lucky, but keep an eye on lamps and lights once you get it replaced. My headlight and dash lights were blown as well and I didn't realize until I went to ride home and had nothing up front but the cyclops light haha