Bafflectomy, Backfire, and PAIR Removal Question?
 

Hello,

This weekend I did the Bafflectomy on my 03 stock exhaust. Immediately after completing the job and riding I noticed a small backfire issue that sounded like it was coming from around the carbs. I suspected detonation and started searching on here for related issues. I came across the PAIR removal thread and it seems like similar symptoms.

Upon digging back into the SH today I came across the PAIR valves and took some pics. This is a CA bike and the CA system has been removed. It looks like someone already capped off the valves:

Attachment 25023


Now, I am wondering a few things:
1. Did they do the job correctly? Is this tiny screw broken? If not how in the hell do you get that out?! I don't have any tools that small.
Is this flap that moves down supposed to be flipped so it will not open downward?

Attachment 25024

Attachment 25025





2. What do I do now? My slapping/popping issue has been ongoing since removal of the baffle. It is under steady throttle. Mostly noticeable between 25-40mph in 1st and 2nd gear. There is a hesitation that comes with each pop.

Any help would be great. The bike was running perfectly fine until removal of those baffles.

That entire unit surrounded by Orange will come out if you give a little force. There is a Phillips screw on the other side to remove the stopper, I chose to flatten the stopper instead of flip it.

But it shouldn't matter if the end is capped and there is no hose. Flipping the stopper won't change, it sounds like your carbs are lean.

James. I would install one #4 (washer) shim under each carb needle and set mixture screws at 2 1/2 to 3 turns out. If your carbs are all stock. Plus a quick balance of the carbs. I'm sure your notice a big improvement.
If you want to, your more than welcome to ride over to my place and I'll help you do it. I've have the carbs of Superhawks many times in the search of carb perfection!
It's a real smiple job, also we can check that all the EPA stuff has been removed correctly and everything has been capped off.

I'm sure your skilled enough to do it yourself though.

AJA. Thanks I found that out once I took the second one off. Talk about feeling like a dumb ass! :-)

Steve. I may need to take you up on that. I flipped the stopper and so far it seems to have helped but not 100% solved the problem. When it comes to carbs I know Nothing so some supervision would be great.

Ill keep an eye on it for this week and then see how it is running more toward this weekend.

Thanks

James, Your more than welcome to come over. I even have a whole bunch of shims. The carbs on our bikes are very sensitive, and work best when set up well. I have a home made carb balancer than works great. Once you see how easy it is to remove the carbs. Your see its not a big deal. Stock our bikes come too lean, down low from the factory. This causes most of the carbs issues you and everyone else have when installing aftermarket pipes or a baffle-rectomy! Flipping the reed blocks should not really make any difference since the pair valve is capped anyways?

Even in stock form, like my bike, its needs a carb shim to remove the down low flat spot. Plus mixture screws adjusted to suit.

Good luck. Steve

You are definitely leaner after the bafflectomy. Look in the FAQ section for the stock carb tuning steps. Until you can do the jetting, you can richen up your mixture two easy ways. Lay a couple of 2" wide strips of duct tape across the full width of the air filter, side by side. Then while cruising at slower engine speeds, pull your choke knob out a bit. Made my lean stumble go away, and made the bike much more ridable after doing a bafflectomy gave me the sane trouble you are now having.

Thanks