back to garage (lost both sparks)
 

hi everybody
need an advice please

3 day ago i opened front cylinder lid to check if the bolts are in place and tightened for i have replaced exhaust valves 500km ago. everything seemed ok so i reassembled it. than i rode it for a while but the rain caught me so i had to return home. but yesterday when i started it i sensed kind of a strange smell kinda like overheated plastics or isolation. i assumed its oil burning cause i have touched exhaust with dirty hands, so i went for a ride. after few km's i felt briefly engine choking . strange but still working. pulled over for traffic lights rev it few times every thing seemed ok so i continued the ride and after a while jolting started and than it went dead. i tried to start it again but no success.

today i have opened it checked the fuel everything fine and than i found out that there is no sparks on both cylinders.

could it be because of the humidity, cause i have ridden it for 20km's in rainy weather?

does anyone had a similar problem. any kind of tip would be helpful

thanks

Your regulator/rectifier is probably toast. Take off the tail piece and you can get a good visual.

but isn't that device part of a battery charging system? i have problem with sparks not battery...

Go look at the RR. Mine wasn't burnt, kept blowing the main fuse, no spark. It was the RR.

i expect that'll be the next thing to fail when i finally finish with the cyl-head pull and valve inspection and get this bike back on the road... i only have experience with Hondas. my NT650 will be running strong long after i'm dead and gone. but the Superhawk is another story. is this a relatively high-maintenance bike?

I am a new guy (my registration has been hosed for 4 months now, sorry but it was just fixed yesterday), but I have had a Reg Rec already melt through itself...
I doubt this is the issue. I replaced the battery even with the smoked reg rec and it still started right back up.

Sounds to me like you need to check your fuses first. Then start at the ignition system and work your way back. You would have had to pull the plugs and wires when doing your work. Start at the plug and work backwards.

Not once you fix what the manufactures saw as "quirks" of the bike =)

Replace your R/R and OEM CCTs then you've got a gem!

And as for OP, if you can crank and still no spark then use a multimeter and check against the service manual for what could be going on, it's free somewhere on the knowledge base if you don't already have it. If the main fuse would have blown you'd have a completely dead bike but there's no harm in checking it anyways =) if you see corrosion on any electrical parts then grab some QD and steel wool.

Other than that, check the main pulse generator connector, it's behind your left side radiator and right against the engine, if at one point when you were changing your valves and moved this so that it's fried itself against the engine than that could be your problem. They're pretty heat resistant but weirder things have happened.

It's not likely that it it's because you haven't ridden in the rain unless you left your rear fender off and all those little electronical-like pieces needed a bath!

Check fuses first.

I also think a bad R/R fried some fuses..

guys you were right it was R/R. negative wire that goes on R/R was fried .
however the part was not original from sh i think it's cbr's it has a pretty big heat sink but still managed to burn itself.
so now i'mm considering to replace it with r1 R/R like someone suggested on this forum does anybody have any experience with that?

that's what i was afraid of. replaced R/R and still no spark. checked side stand switch, kill switch, clutch switch, checked main fuse and all other fuses everything is in place but still no sparks. what else can i check, in other words what else can bad R/R damage.
how can i check ICM
i also checked the pulse generator with my multimeter and i got no voltage at all but i cant tell whether it is because low impedance of multimeter or the pulse generator is faulty

please help me... any suggestion

Sounds like you need to dig into the FSM and start troubleshooting.

yes i know... i already did that and imm going to continue with troubleshooting i just wanna know if someone had the same problem to tell me is there some particular part that i should check related to R/R failure

Thats kind of a loaded question. If your R/R went out, it could have sent WAY to much voltage to many different components, and fried a number of things.

ripped black/white wire on converter unit.
maybe that is the reason why R/R failed.

now i have new from yamaha r1 2005 i think its mosfet not sure.

one more question with engine not running i have 13.3v on terminals with running engine 13.8v is that enough?

Yeah. A tiny bit low (by about .1/.2 volts) but it's enough. Max would be about 14.4 running, and min would be about 13.8. Was this at idle or at RPM. It makes a difference. And thats a GREAT voltage for your battery.

at idle its about 13,6 and at 3000 rpm its 13,8 and i noticed that my headlights are much brighter

thaks to everybody. another problem solved
cheers