and +1 for headlight direct-wired relay
12-07-2009, 07:01 PM
#1
Senior Member
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 143
and +1 for headlight direct-wired relay
Just wanted to comment for anyone out there who hasn't added a direct wired headlight circuit yet, that it's worth it's weight in gold. If you're thinking about any kind of headlight change, HID or higher wattage, don't waste another second even considering it until you have installed a heavy duty direct wired circuit w/ relay for your stock headlamp.
I used the eastern beaver harness, I believe it's described in this thread. Install was incredibly simple, and light output was easily double as promised. Before this I was considering an HID solution, and I can honestly say that at this point I can't imagine it being worth either the hassle or the downsides.
From the research I've done, you either have to give up high beam or you have to custom-fabricate a housing to hold a bi-xenon projector solution from a car. The latter is the ultimate of course but a lot of work. I did not even change my bulb, it is the factory bulb, but the increased voltage from the direct wiring harness+relay really does have the doubling effect of light output compared to the stock wiring harness.
Note that I did elect for the "single dual-beam" solution, i.e. the one that runs both the low and high filaments simultaneously when you turn on the high beams, as opposed to shutting off the low filament when you turn on the high beam, which is what the factory harness does. But even the low beam alone is so effective now that I think I'm going to have to re-aim my lamp so I don't blind people (I think I had it over-high unintentionally compensating for it's weak factory effectiveness).
I used the eastern beaver harness, I believe it's described in this thread. Install was incredibly simple, and light output was easily double as promised. Before this I was considering an HID solution, and I can honestly say that at this point I can't imagine it being worth either the hassle or the downsides.
From the research I've done, you either have to give up high beam or you have to custom-fabricate a housing to hold a bi-xenon projector solution from a car. The latter is the ultimate of course but a lot of work. I did not even change my bulb, it is the factory bulb, but the increased voltage from the direct wiring harness+relay really does have the doubling effect of light output compared to the stock wiring harness.
Note that I did elect for the "single dual-beam" solution, i.e. the one that runs both the low and high filaments simultaneously when you turn on the high beams, as opposed to shutting off the low filament when you turn on the high beam, which is what the factory harness does. But even the low beam alone is so effective now that I think I'm going to have to re-aim my lamp so I don't blind people (I think I had it over-high unintentionally compensating for it's weak factory effectiveness).
12-07-2009, 07:54 PM
#3
Senior Member
Back Marker
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 143
Uh, no, it's not that it doesn't use relays. It's that it uses substandard wiring. The relay kit uses sufficient gauge wiring to carry almost 100% of alternator voltage directly from the battery to the headlamp. The relays just shut it off based on when the headlamp would normally be off so it's not always on.
12-08-2009, 06:18 AM
#5
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
The issue as it is on all bikes and most cages.. Is low voltage at the bulb.. The system loses a few volts going from the source to the bulb though lots of wire, switches, connections and sometimes a relay.
If you add a 12ga wire from the battery to a quality relay, then a 12 ga wire from relay to light.. Trigger the relay off the OEM headlight circuit. You will bring true battery voltage 14v or so to the headlamp bulb. Light output will greatly increase,, And in all the trucks, cars and bikes I’ve done over the years, I’ve never noticed a decrease in bulb life. Use quality wire, properly crimped connections or if you do not have ratcheting crimpers and access to good crimp connections then soldier then on. Use some 3M polyfin heat shrink tube, and a quality relay. This is a very simple cheap mod that is something you will SEE instant improvement from.
If you add a 12ga wire from the battery to a quality relay, then a 12 ga wire from relay to light.. Trigger the relay off the OEM headlight circuit. You will bring true battery voltage 14v or so to the headlamp bulb. Light output will greatly increase,, And in all the trucks, cars and bikes I’ve done over the years, I’ve never noticed a decrease in bulb life. Use quality wire, properly crimped connections or if you do not have ratcheting crimpers and access to good crimp connections then soldier then on. Use some 3M polyfin heat shrink tube, and a quality relay. This is a very simple cheap mod that is something you will SEE instant improvement from.
12-08-2009, 06:31 AM
#6
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 1,216
I've put this in 2 other threads I believe.
For $55 shipped to your house from Japan, the Eastern Beaver (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Pr...s/h4_kits.html) kit is unbeatable. The quality of his work is undeniable. All of his materials are listed on his site so you can check their quality independently. The heat shrink that he uses has glue inside to; 1. provide a small amount of water resistance and 2. it provides strain relief.
The Eastern Beaver kit is truly plug and play.
In one of the other threads, Tweety posted some stats from the Hella site. The significant one was that at 12V, a halogen bulb is only outputting about 51% of it's ability.
This kit and home-made ones will provide close to 14V, which will increase the bulbs output to nearly 100%.
The reason we lose so much is that all the voltage is traveling through the wiring harness to the actual switch then to the headlight, through small gauge wire.
Like TXSuperChicken said, this kit uses the stock headlight switch to trigger the new relays in the kit.
Now if you really want to up your light output, I went with a Osram 80/85W bulb that I purchased from www.rallylights.com for $21 shipped to my door. Cheaper than at any of the auto stores and higher output.
Combined, that's $76, very bright and less expensive than a HID. Not that I wouldn't mind having a HID. There are people on here who have built some very nice bi-xenons and installed them in their bikes.
For $55 shipped to your house from Japan, the Eastern Beaver (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Pr...s/h4_kits.html) kit is unbeatable. The quality of his work is undeniable. All of his materials are listed on his site so you can check their quality independently. The heat shrink that he uses has glue inside to; 1. provide a small amount of water resistance and 2. it provides strain relief.
The Eastern Beaver kit is truly plug and play.
In one of the other threads, Tweety posted some stats from the Hella site. The significant one was that at 12V, a halogen bulb is only outputting about 51% of it's ability.
This kit and home-made ones will provide close to 14V, which will increase the bulbs output to nearly 100%.
The reason we lose so much is that all the voltage is traveling through the wiring harness to the actual switch then to the headlight, through small gauge wire.
Like TXSuperChicken said, this kit uses the stock headlight switch to trigger the new relays in the kit.
Now if you really want to up your light output, I went with a Osram 80/85W bulb that I purchased from www.rallylights.com for $21 shipped to my door. Cheaper than at any of the auto stores and higher output.
Combined, that's $76, very bright and less expensive than a HID. Not that I wouldn't mind having a HID. There are people on here who have built some very nice bi-xenons and installed them in their bikes.
12-08-2009, 06:51 AM
#7
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
I've heard good things about Eastern Beaver products.. If you’re short on time, skill, materials or tools, they are a trust worthy place to go.
It's about $11 in materials (when bought in bulk), to make this set up. BUT you need a quality pair of crimpers at $140 or so, quality connections,, 3M polyolefin heat shrink tubing (Yes, this is the stuff that has glue in the inside to help seal and protect), and a source for a quality relay. I buy most my stuff from http://www.waytekwire.com/sitemap.htm
if you’re only going to do this once, and electrical work is not a common thing for you,, Buy the kit from Eastern Beaver. If you’re interested in making your own set up and have the ability, time, and desire,, you can do this easily.
It's about $11 in materials (when bought in bulk), to make this set up. BUT you need a quality pair of crimpers at $140 or so, quality connections,, 3M polyolefin heat shrink tubing (Yes, this is the stuff that has glue in the inside to help seal and protect), and a source for a quality relay. I buy most my stuff from http://www.waytekwire.com/sitemap.htm
if you’re only going to do this once, and electrical work is not a common thing for you,, Buy the kit from Eastern Beaver. If you’re interested in making your own set up and have the ability, time, and desire,, you can do this easily.
12-08-2009, 08:11 AM
#9
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 1,216
I've heard good things about Eastern Beaver products.. If you’re short on time, skill, materials or tools, they are a trust worthy place to go.
It's about $11 in materials (when bought in bulk), to make this set up. BUT you need a quality pair of crimpers at $140 or so, quality connections,, 3M polyolefin heat shrink tubing (Yes, this is the stuff that has glue in the inside to help seal and protect), and a source for a quality relay. I buy most my stuff from http://www.waytekwire.com/sitemap.htm
if you’re only going to do this once, and electrical work is not a common thing for you,, Buy the kit from Eastern Beaver. If you’re interested in making your own set up and have the ability, time, and desire,, you can do this easily.
It's about $11 in materials (when bought in bulk), to make this set up. BUT you need a quality pair of crimpers at $140 or so, quality connections,, 3M polyolefin heat shrink tubing (Yes, this is the stuff that has glue in the inside to help seal and protect), and a source for a quality relay. I buy most my stuff from http://www.waytekwire.com/sitemap.htm
if you’re only going to do this once, and electrical work is not a common thing for you,, Buy the kit from Eastern Beaver. If you’re interested in making your own set up and have the ability, time, and desire,, you can do this easily.
I love DIY stuff, and if you have the means and materials, I am jealous.
I'm also a supporter of the little guy/little business. For the fee, I will happily buy it from him, same as the shock and shifter from Jamie, and Velocity stacks from Tony.
Thanks for the links TX, that will make it easier for the guys who want to attempt it.
Erik
12-08-2009, 08:13 AM
#10
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 1,216
Adam, make sure to look around his site. Lots of cool little well-thought-out electrical stuff. Ways to add power to your tank bag, Power Outlet stuff. Lots of stuff that has had user input, the kind of stuff that you wish someone would make.
12-08-2009, 08:54 AM
#11
Always Learning
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 148
2 questons, "add power to your tank bag"? and with all of this wiring talk about how the stock wiring is inferior, I see so many of the guys on here that are tearing their bikes down for some reason or another, wouldn't it be ideal to at that time just replace the wiring? I haven't even SEEN the wiring on my bike as I am used to my custom Vtwin which has less than a dozen. But how hard is it, if yo uhave the bike stripped down to just replace it?
12-08-2009, 09:17 AM
#12
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
2 questons, "add power to your tank bag"? and with all of this wiring talk about how the stock wiring is inferior, I see so many of the guys on here that are tearing their bikes down for some reason or another, wouldn't it be ideal to at that time just replace the wiring? I haven't even SEEN the wiring on my bike as I am used to my custom Vtwin which has less than a dozen. But how hard is it, if yo uhave the bike stripped down to just replace it?
With modern OEM wiring, I’d stick to replacing or repairing only what has shown a need.
Head lights show a upgrade capability,, So do that. The RR has proven a weak spot on the SH, so change that.
On other bikes there are other areas that can be addressed.
12-08-2009, 09:18 AM
#13
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,132
2 questons, "add power to your tank bag"? and with all of this wiring talk about how the stock wiring is inferior, I see so many of the guys on here that are tearing their bikes down for some reason or another, wouldn't it be ideal to at that time just replace the wiring? I haven't even SEEN the wiring on my bike as I am used to my custom Vtwin which has less than a dozen. But how hard is it, if yo uhave the bike stripped down to just replace it?
A new set of wires isn't heavy enough to matter, and far easier to do.
edit: The power to tank bag is just adding a cigarette lighter plug on a wire so that you can charge cell phones etc, usually carried in a magnetic tank bag.
12-08-2009, 09:46 AM
#14
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
Lots 'o discussion here but another +1 on the eastern eager beaver guy. The headlight is WAY brighter. I am curious how this compares to the new HID conversion for moto lights, as they should use less power and run cooler. I may try it on my SV for comparison
12-08-2009, 03:33 PM
#15
Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Menifee, CA
Posts: 51
The issue as it is on all bikes and most cages.. Is low voltage at the bulb.. The system loses a few volts going from the source to the bulb though lots of wire, switches, connections and sometimes a relay.
If you add a 12ga wire from the battery to a quality relay, then a 12 ga wire from relay to light.. Trigger the relay off the OEM headlight circuit. You will bring true battery voltage 14v or so to the headlamp bulb. Light output will greatly increase,, And in all the trucks, cars and bikes I’ve done over the years, I’ve never noticed a decrease in bulb life. Use quality wire, properly crimped connections or if you do not have ratcheting crimpers and access to good crimp connections then soldier then on. Use some 3M polyfin heat shrink tube, and a quality relay. This is a very simple cheap mod that is something you will SEE instant improvement from.
If you add a 12ga wire from the battery to a quality relay, then a 12 ga wire from relay to light.. Trigger the relay off the OEM headlight circuit. You will bring true battery voltage 14v or so to the headlamp bulb. Light output will greatly increase,, And in all the trucks, cars and bikes I’ve done over the years, I’ve never noticed a decrease in bulb life. Use quality wire, properly crimped connections or if you do not have ratcheting crimpers and access to good crimp connections then soldier then on. Use some 3M polyfin heat shrink tube, and a quality relay. This is a very simple cheap mod that is something you will SEE instant improvement from.
12-08-2009, 04:35 PM
#16
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: thorold ontario
Posts: 1,978
i made my own relay setup when i installed my hid, theyre very very simple to do and can be done in about 10 minutes and for probably 10 - 15 dollars for parts depending on where you go 
but well worth it, the stock light is crap, id occasionally put the switch between lo and hi but i hear that causes issues so it owuld only be a last resort while hitting corners on streets with no lights. but the hid upgrade made a huge difference and i cant wait to see it through a projector
but well worth it, the stock light is crap, id occasionally put the switch between lo and hi but i hear that causes issues so it owuld only be a last resort while hitting corners on streets with no lights. but the hid upgrade made a huge difference and i cant wait to see it through a projector
12-12-2009, 11:17 PM
#17
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,132
So I just did this today in "roll your own" style. I must say it does seem to have helped quite a bit, I also added a 6A diode to the mix so that when my high beam is on so is the low beam. (though that limits my low beam to a max of ~72 watts I am running standard wattage Sylvania Ultra Stars, brighter than stock, but same watts so unless I upgrade my bulb I don't expect problems)
12-14-2009, 05:32 AM
#18
Always Learning
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 148
Anyone try this LED style bulb? They are a bit pricey so b4 I purchased one I was curious on feedback, 
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...afCatId=&mmyId=
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...afCatId=&mmyId=
12-14-2009, 05:59 AM
#20
Always Learning
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 148
12-14-2009, 07:47 AM
#21
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: N. Ireland
Posts: 162
thats not a headlight bulb
you would only use that kinda bulb for the sidelight (your "third eye") or the tail light not dipped or main beam
so anyway ive got a pair of loud *** horns to fit to my bike too, should i get a relay kit for them and wire them the same way as you would wire a relay to the headlight or what? obviously using the horn button instead of the headlight switch
cheers
you would only use that kinda bulb for the sidelight (your "third eye") or the tail light not dipped or main beam
so anyway ive got a pair of loud *** horns to fit to my bike too, should i get a relay kit for them and wire them the same way as you would wire a relay to the headlight or what? obviously using the horn button instead of the headlight switch
cheers
12-14-2009, 09:02 AM
#22
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 427
OK, with the help of this thread, I realize now that I can't live without the Eastern Beaver set-up. I'll be getting the Heavy Duty Single Headlight Relay Kit with the Ceramic Socket. There is also an optional Heavy Duty Dis-Connector (sic). Is this a worthwhile option? It may not have been available when some of you bought and installed your kits.
Lemme know guys. Thanks.
Lemme know guys. Thanks.
12-14-2009, 10:50 AM
#23
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: N. Ireland
Posts: 162
im going to order the H4 kit as well and the dual horn relay kit too.
im gonna get those posi lock things where you chop off your H4 connectors.
whats this about a ceramic socket?
i take it he is ok with shipping to the uk then
im gonna get those posi lock things where you chop off your H4 connectors.
whats this about a ceramic socket?
i take it he is ok with shipping to the uk then
12-14-2009, 11:16 AM
#24
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,132
Originally Posted by Forde
i take it he is ok with shipping to the uk then
Originally Posted by nekkid
There is also an optional Heavy Duty Dis-Connector (sic). Is this a worthwhile option?
12-14-2009, 05:04 PM
#25
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
OK so that led bulb MIGHT work as a tail light. But you can get them that shoot all the light strait back for about 5 times less. I used them until I did the LED retro fit tail light job as outlned on this forum which is way better than anything else and I think it costed 30 clams. Well worth it. The eager easter busy beaver stuff is a 10-15 minute plug & play & we all know how suceptible headlights are to water & vibration. Seems a no-brainer fot the cheap money. You zip tie the relays to the cage & go on with your life. When you flash someone the hi-beams they think aliens are landing & get RIGHT out of your way. Sure they may have 3rd degree skin burns but sometimes I am in a bit of a hurry to be sitting behind tourists.
12-15-2009, 06:55 PM
#28
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 1,216
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...=led+taillight
That's the thread. Ridiculously simple. Ridiculously bright and effective. Ridiculously inexpensive. Wonderful mod. This is one of my favorite inexpensive mods, the other being the relay kit from Eastern Beaver in this thread.
Cheers
That's the thread. Ridiculously simple. Ridiculously bright and effective. Ridiculously inexpensive. Wonderful mod. This is one of my favorite inexpensive mods, the other being the relay kit from Eastern Beaver in this thread.
Cheers
Last edited by Erik S.; 12-15-2009 at 06:57 PM.
12-15-2009, 08:30 PM
#29
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
Yeah, thats the mod. Wonder how I lived without it. I gotta take some pics/vids of the rest of my tail light setup. 2 red LED running lights in each turn signal give a wide profile & a strobe 3rd brake light in the givi case that flashes 5 times then goes steady. Oh yeah, & double turn signals so no one can ignore me.
12-15-2009, 08:37 PM
#30
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
Hey Erik; please dont get so technical..."thingies"? Whoa, slow down there! I also dont understand why you are taking a drill to your front fender while putting in a headlight relay. You didnt drill right into the tire did you? Air gets out if you do that & the bike handles way worse than before. (just a tech tip)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
CentralCoaster
Modifications - Performance
12
08-21-2009 06:40 AM
inderocker
Classifieds
6
07-31-2009 05:01 PM
