Get over it ...Do you not understand no one cares......8541Sparrow

Well can I ask which density is used in these parts?

As there is quite a range....
Dense compounds can have hardnesses from approximately 25 to 99 Shore A (60 Shore D), tensile strengths over 5000 psi (35 MPa) and DIN abrasion values as low as 30-40 mm³ loss.

Now what are the stock parts?

Any testing to determine which compound to use or just a guess?

Why do the cush rubbers wear? Is it because they take the shock load?

Now if you use a harder compound. won't that load be transferred to someplace else?

Now will that transferred load cause damage? Will the seller cover the costs of repairs if something like a gear dog gets damaged?

So once again, I wouldn't recommend running them on the street.
A race bike, no problem as you don't shift from neutral very often.

So I guess because I have an opinion, I'm just a know it all or some kind of expert...... just like you.....

Once again I just stated some facts. When you shift the bike into gear and you get the jump or clunk, that is a major shock load. The rubbers are there to take up the shock load.

If you change them out for something denser or harder, yeah they may last longer but they will not be able to absorb the same amount of shock. Thereby it will be transferred to somewhere else in the drive line.

If you want to take the chance of running these fine but is it such a bad thing to point out that there can be a problem?

What engineering or testing was done to choose this material?

A lot of chances to take on a part that costs a whole $25 and lasts a good 20K miles or so.

Seems you care enough to post a whole thread about it.....

Now try a little harder with the name calling....

Research it a little more.....Sparrow.......If you read enough on the internet, you too will become enlightened........

How would i know, i didn't make them. I don't recall saying you were an expert, but if you claim you are then you must be, right.

So you are saying that I can research, on the net, what density you chose, what research and testing, if any you have done and if you would stand behind what you sell and would cover any damage caused by your parts.... ummm ok

Oh and for you immature little name calling, well I've been called a lot worse by a lot better people than you, so keep trying, and it's Mr. Sparrow to you.

all I care about is durometer. What is the difference stock to your urethane ones?

Well I apologize then as that is what it seemed you were implying.

So let me ask you this, are these questions out of line and don't you think the answers might be important?

Sure they are valid question and maybe they might be important, but man you are like attacking other members if they even slightly disagree with your opinions. Same crap you did to me the other day with the filter discussion. You want facts from us, but you have no facts to produce either to back up all of your statements. I mean this is a site to share and discuss what each of us are doing to our bikes. But to me (an maybe i am wrong) it seems like you are sitting and waiting to pick a fight with whom ever the next poster is if its something you disagree with.

I know i am not always right, but neither are you. lots of guys over the years have done some pretty kewl stuff to these bikes and yes some of it is cutting edge. Does that mean its better than stock, maybe or maybe not sometimes.

Heck i run a CRF405R on the street with Excel wheels and no cush drive. It is all rigid, i run the crap out of it on the track jamming gear down and up without issue. Same bike runs in the woods with OEM wheels and no cush drives, no problems either. does that compare to the VTR, heck no, but that is not to say that a guy that comes up with something different may not be better than Honda. Comon they make these bikes for mass production and not cutting edge. I would be fair to say that nearly everyone on here has modied their bike in some form or fashion from stock. Some products may be backed by a company and some may be stuff like fork brace, mirror extrenders, Manual CCT's, Shock Shim, so on and so on. Does that mean that all mods have to be backed by a company, heck no. At least in my book they do not.

I don't want to continue to argue or fight about crap like this. I enjoy looking at what others are doing to their bikes and sometimes the stuff is damn kewl.

Well I guess you are entitled to your opinion and if you actually look at my posts, yes I do provide the facts to back up what I am saying in the majority of them.

Sorry I don't have a stack of dyno charts for the carbs stuff..... I guess the other members that disagreed with you but didn't have the dyno charts are in the same boat as myself.

Also a 250 lbs bike that makes under 50hp doesn't really compare to a SuperHawk or the loads they each put on the drive line but that doesn't matter much either.

So sorry if I have offended anyone but after 14yrs of owning one of these bikes I have seen and tried most things that can be done.

Yeah I like to see new stuff but also try to point out the downfalls of some ideas...... I guess I'll just keep quite, like many of the older members here from now on as it really isn't worth it on this end either....

Wonder if you will get an answer.....

Well here it goes for those that want to know.......Autoteach if you are asking me what the Durometer is on this cush drive dampers, I can't tell you. What I can give you is the company name where we had them made. If you are so inclined give them a call and ask them. All I know is we sent them a cush drive damper, and asked duplicate it with the same characteristics, with a longer lifespan. Here is the name of the company.
(Esco Plastics Company - Houston, Texas 281-443-3710)

Although at some point this was explained to me I had to look the definition up so I could pass on accurate information. Here is the most commonly used definition for Durometer.

Durometer is a measure of hardness used for polymers. For a given polymer a higher durometer frequently indicates a stronger material and possibly other properties.

Most types of rubber and other polymers are specified using the Shore "A" or Shore "D" scales. In comparing hardness, be aware of the scale being used for the material in question.

The hardness of rubber compounds is measured by the Shore A durometer; the higher the durometer, the harder the compound. 70-durometer hardness should be used whenever possible as it offers the best combination of properties for most O-Rings applications.


Softer compounds stretch easier and seal better on rough surfaces. Harder compounds offer greater abrasion resistance and resistance to extrusion. Extrusion must always be considered where high pressure is used. The proper hardness may be selected from this chart by matching the fluid pressure with the maximum extrusion gap.

60 Shore A is softer than 70.

70 Shore A is the standard.

90 Shore A is very stiff.

I hope this has been helpful.

So, all you guys feeling the Christmas spirit, or what? Remember, the Baby Jesus cries when we don't all get along.

yeah, and baby jesus probably cries when his diaper needs changed too, so what........and it seems that we're doing a fine job of appropriately utilizing the SH forum's rant section.

the christmas spirit is great for kids of all ages who are hoping to get their gifts as well as for those who profit from all the spending therof, i just wish they'd stop broadcasting those stupid xmas songs everyplace you go. All i want is some millathane for my cush drive and some real spirits with a little bob dylan howling in the background.

Bob Dylan? Are we now picking on him? lol