Replacing the rear 41 with a 43
01-17-2006, 03:40 PM
#1
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Replacing the rear 41 with a 43
I am adding the 43 tooth to the rear without changing the front..My question is how far up do I need to move the rear tire?? Just enough to do the job, or all the way??? Any other tips or tricks will be appreciated....
Also, with the speedo being 5 to 7 % off already, what do you think it will be off by doing this??
Also, with the speedo being 5 to 7 % off already, what do you think it will be off by doing this??
01-17-2006, 03:49 PM
#2
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Keeping every thing else stock? If so just adjust it to where it's got the right amount of slack. Speedo will probably be off 10 to 15% or somewhere close to that. It will read faster than what your doing.
01-17-2006, 06:42 PM
#9
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Re: Replacing the rear 41 with a 43
Your supposed to get a new chain and other sprocket when you buy a new sprocket or chain.
Can't imagine it being a big deal unless its got a lot of miles on it but thats what they tell me.
Can't imagine it being a big deal unless its got a lot of miles on it but thats what they tell me.
01-17-2006, 06:54 PM
#10
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Re: Replacing the rear 41 with a 43
Well it's a 99' with 5500 original miles, chain looks darn good. I thought about doing the conversion this spring, but I may be happy with just adding the 43 t to her.....
01-17-2006, 08:34 PM
#11
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O.k. 1st things 1st, you have to take off the caliper before the wheel 2 bolts, with the low mount exhaust 1 can be a bitch. There is a shim that sits on the mount for the caliper make sure you don't loose it or the brakes will rattle. You don't have to take the line off just put the caliper off to the side. The mount will come off later when you take the wheel off.
Loosen the axle but don't take it off just yet. You may need something to tap the axle to slid it out I usually use a 1/2 inch ext. Tap it lightly and make sure you don't miss and hit the threads. You'll be looking at the back of the bike tapping from right to left. As you tap it out when the axle is far enough out slide the spacers free, the order matters. First the caliper mount then a spacer, I like to keep everything that comes off the right in a box on the right and vice versa.
When you put it back together do in reverse order somtimes it can be a bitch to line it up. I like to raise it up just enough so I can slide my foot under the tire to lift it into place. Some say that the chain adjustment lines on the swing arm aren't very accurate so they measure from the swing arm mount to the axle till they are even on both sides. I've done it both ways and the lines on mine are off a bit but I think it depends on how far off the lines are and how **** you are. When you tighten the axle nut tighten it with the wrench level with the swingarm and rotate foward stopping about 90 degrees so it doesn't move the wheel. You might have to push the piston back in the caliper to mount it. Don't forget to pump the rear brake before riding it or you won't have a rear brake until it's too late. I think that's it but if you run into any problems let me know.
Don't forget to loosen the bolts for the sprocket first unless you've got an air compressor these suckers are on TIGHT.
Loosen the axle but don't take it off just yet. You may need something to tap the axle to slid it out I usually use a 1/2 inch ext. Tap it lightly and make sure you don't miss and hit the threads. You'll be looking at the back of the bike tapping from right to left. As you tap it out when the axle is far enough out slide the spacers free, the order matters. First the caliper mount then a spacer, I like to keep everything that comes off the right in a box on the right and vice versa.
When you put it back together do in reverse order somtimes it can be a bitch to line it up. I like to raise it up just enough so I can slide my foot under the tire to lift it into place. Some say that the chain adjustment lines on the swing arm aren't very accurate so they measure from the swing arm mount to the axle till they are even on both sides. I've done it both ways and the lines on mine are off a bit but I think it depends on how far off the lines are and how **** you are. When you tighten the axle nut tighten it with the wrench level with the swingarm and rotate foward stopping about 90 degrees so it doesn't move the wheel. You might have to push the piston back in the caliper to mount it. Don't forget to pump the rear brake before riding it or you won't have a rear brake until it's too late. I think that's it but if you run into any problems let me know.
Don't forget to loosen the bolts for the sprocket first unless you've got an air compressor these suckers are on TIGHT.
01-17-2006, 08:50 PM
#12
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Now, keep in mind you are going to be adding a good amount of torque with this mod. I don't want to see you pulling any wheelies like those crazy people out there when we rode last weekend. Wheelies are bad mmmkay?
01-17-2006, 09:28 PM
#14
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Re: Replacing the rear 41 with a 43
I will try and control the inner-child....and the devil on my shoulder....hell they both speak to me in language that I have to translate from time to time....oh was that too much info....I am really not crazy...sometimes....
OK, so let's recap----pound the crap out of the rear wheel til she pops like a cheap date, then add wheelie sproket, throw the wheel back on, hoping she is straight, do a bong hit, then check out the texas skies with that beautiful view from the pavement....that should about round it out...oh yeah do a little dance make a little love get down tonight, get down tonight....shew....I must get to work on this mod now...or Thurs....
Hey, Superhawk22 thanks for the info will let ya know how it goes.....
OK, so let's recap----pound the crap out of the rear wheel til she pops like a cheap date, then add wheelie sproket, throw the wheel back on, hoping she is straight, do a bong hit, then check out the texas skies with that beautiful view from the pavement....that should about round it out...oh yeah do a little dance make a little love get down tonight, get down tonight....shew....I must get to work on this mod now...or Thurs....
Hey, Superhawk22 thanks for the info will let ya know how it goes.....
Well at 3am any way.
01-27-2006, 10:20 PM
#19
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As far as the speedo goes think of it like this. 41/43 x indicated speed for the current mod. If you take it one step further with the one tooth down in the front think 41/43 x 15/16 x indicated speed. To account for the 5% its off from the factory multiply your product by .95
I'm doing the same gearing mod this week. Let me know how much it helps.
I'm doing the same gearing mod this week. Let me know how much it helps.
01-28-2006, 04:29 AM
#20
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Re: Replacing the rear 41 with a 43
Here:
http://www.jahlmandesign.com/gear_calc_mph.htm
Type in all the correct values and this will tell you how fast you will be going at what rpm in any gear. The wheel circumference they have listed is very close, my 190 Dunlop 208 came out to 6.458.
At least you can see how far off your speedo is.
http://www.jahlmandesign.com/gear_calc_mph.htm
Type in all the correct values and this will tell you how fast you will be going at what rpm in any gear. The wheel circumference they have listed is very close, my 190 Dunlop 208 came out to 6.458.
At least you can see how far off your speedo is.
01-28-2006, 01:16 PM
#21
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As far as the speedo goes think of it like this. 41/43 x indicated speed for the current mod. If you take it one step further with the one tooth down in the front think 41/43 x 15/16 x indicated speed. To account for the 5% its off from the factory multiply your product by .95
I'm doing the same gearing mod this week. Let me know how much it helps.
I'm doing the same gearing mod this week. Let me know how much it helps.
01-28-2006, 09:43 PM
#22
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You've got four choices.
1) Speedo healer
2) Sigma BC800 bike speedo that is dead accurate for $10. I have one on my KZ and it works great.
3) Tape coversion info to speedo for popular speed limits like 25, 35, 55, 70 or whatever for your area.
4) Remember the difference at 10mph and multiply by the first digit of your indicated speed to figure the difference or first two digits for triple digit speeds.
1) Speedo healer
2) Sigma BC800 bike speedo that is dead accurate for $10. I have one on my KZ and it works great.
3) Tape coversion info to speedo for popular speed limits like 25, 35, 55, 70 or whatever for your area.
4) Remember the difference at 10mph and multiply by the first digit of your indicated speed to figure the difference or first two digits for triple digit speeds.
01-29-2006, 03:50 AM
#23
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Re: Replacing the rear 41 with a 43
The speedohealer is the easiest. You will have an accurate speedo and odo. If you use the other methods your odo will be way off and racking up miles faster than you really are.
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