Rear Shock Alternative? Don't kill me...
09-14-2015, 07:09 PM
#31
Led Sled
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 34
Thanks James for the input. I'm currently trying to find out what the factory setting is or what it looks like. I really appreciate all the help.
09-14-2015, 08:12 PM
#33
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
What I'm trying to figure out is how the person I got the bike from stated that he initially got the VTR because of his 6'4 stature and how the bike didn't make him feel cramped while riding. Those numbers don't equate: a person 6'4" with a bike that's been lowered to that height. Shims are on the way... woo hoo!
I don't think that the front end adjustment was done to lower the bike, what it does is steepen the fork angle, and that makes the bike steer more quickly. If you shim the back, and return the front end to the stock position (with the circlip on the forks pulled down against the top of the handlebars) then you will have raised both ends but kept the faster steering.
09-15-2015, 01:55 AM
#34
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
09-15-2015, 02:59 AM
#35
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
You need to lift those forks. If the springs are stock that front end is in a dangerous condition. Once that is done get the correct springs for your weight.
Then you can play with shims. And maybe the Roger mod for the forks.
Then you can play with shims. And maybe the Roger mod for the forks.
09-15-2015, 04:31 AM
#36
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
She it mate,
That is the most radical set up I have ever seen!
Raise the forks, fit the shim, measure the static sag, do a search on here it's all there.
Whoever owned this bike before you had some funny ideas !
Bloody thing would be downright dangerous.
Make it a priority, otherwise you'll regret it.
That is the most radical set up I have ever seen!
Raise the forks, fit the shim, measure the static sag, do a search on here it's all there.
Whoever owned this bike before you had some funny ideas !
Bloody thing would be downright dangerous.
Make it a priority, otherwise you'll regret it.
09-15-2015, 04:56 AM
#37
Led Sled
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 34
She it mate,
That is the most radical set up I have ever seen!
Raise the forks, fit the shim, measure the static sag, do a search on here it's all there.
Whoever owned this bike before you had some funny ideas !
Bloody thing would be downright dangerous.
Make it a priority, otherwise you'll regret it.
That is the most radical set up I have ever seen!
Raise the forks, fit the shim, measure the static sag, do a search on here it's all there.
Whoever owned this bike before you had some funny ideas !
Bloody thing would be downright dangerous.
Make it a priority, otherwise you'll regret it.
You guys rock...! I've got my work cut out for me this weekend. Can't wait for the shim to come in first. The bike is not registered yet so I'm having to quench my V-Twin addiction to just neighborhood riding to keep her warm. When I rode the bike home she felt awesome and seemed to love leaning on the turns. Point and she goes...
09-15-2015, 02:40 PM
#39
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
I did not receive any instructions but to be honest it should be self-explanatory. You just need to undo the nut on the clevis where it passes through the frame just at the back of the tank. If you pull the seat off you'll see it easily, a 17mm nut from memory. Once that is off, you need to lift the back of the bike while leaving the wheel resting on the ground. I put a piece of wood under the sidestand foot so the bike is closer to vertical, then put a car jack under the right hand exhaust where the pipes split to the mufflers. Crank the jack up and keep an eye on the gap between the top of the clevis and the underside of the frame cross-member. This is in the gap just behind the rear cylinder head, there should be a rubber flap in this spot that you may need to lift out of the way to see. When you've got a big enough gap, slip the shim into place, then lower the jack and the weight of the bike will hold everything in place while you re-tighten the top nut (44 N-m from memory).
Hopefully the diagrams below will help, I have no photos, sorry. You don't need to disassemble to this extent to install a shim!!!
Hopefully the diagrams below will help, I have no photos, sorry. You don't need to disassemble to this extent to install a shim!!!
Last edited by Cadbury64; 09-15-2015 at 02:42 PM.
09-15-2015, 06:49 PM
#40
Led Sled
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 34
I did not receive any instructions but to be honest it should be self-explanatory. You just need to undo the nut on the clevis where it passes through the frame just at the back of the tank. If you pull the seat off you'll see it easily, a 17mm nut from memory. Once that is off, you need to lift the back of the bike while leaving the wheel resting on the ground. I put a piece of wood under the sidestand foot so the bike is closer to vertical, then put a car jack under the right hand exhaust where the pipes split to the mufflers. Crank the jack up and keep an eye on the gap between the top of the clevis and the underside of the frame cross-member. This is in the gap just behind the rear cylinder head, there should be a rubber flap in this spot that you may need to lift out of the way to see. When you've got a big enough gap, slip the shim into place, then lower the jack and the weight of the bike will hold everything in place while you re-tighten the top nut (44 N-m from memory).
Perfect... shim is on it's way from the UK. Gonna follow everyone's advice and start with that mod before tackling the fork issue. Again, you guys rock...!
Hopefully the diagrams below will help, I have no photos, sorry. You don't need to disassemble to this extent to install a shim!!!
Perfect... shim is on it's way from the UK. Gonna follow everyone's advice and start with that mod before tackling the fork issue. Again, you guys rock...!
Hopefully the diagrams below will help, I have no photos, sorry. You don't need to disassemble to this extent to install a shim!!!
09-15-2015, 08:59 PM
#41
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
I'm with the consensus here, the shim is nice to have but the forks look like they are too low for safety; as I stated before I reckon if they are that far through the clamps, when you brake hard over a bump the top of the sliders will collide with the bottom clamp and lock the fork the fork up, which won't help your braking. Shifting the forks will take all of about 10 minutes, you only need a 14mm and 12 mm socket and a 6mm allen key, do one leg at a time. If you want to do this correctly, re-torque the lower bolts to 49 N-m, the top clamp and bar clamp are 23 N-m.
09-16-2015, 12:56 AM
#42
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
This Vid may help with the concept of just dropping the clamps on the forks and why it doesnt really work. Swingarm angle gets messed up for a start.
Triple Clamps Explained By Richard Stanboli of Attack Performance | OnTheThrottle.com
Triple Clamps Explained By Richard Stanboli of Attack Performance | OnTheThrottle.com
09-16-2015, 12:11 PM
#44
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Fran Freako
Posts: 393
Disclosure: I have little experience in this matter. I do not wish to disrespect a contributor of this forum and provider of fine retrofit shocks. This is merely academic.
It looks to me from the list...
http://www.customfighters.com/forums...ad.php?t=12827
posted by Scottieman (the link is worth visiting if not for the original poster's signature photo alone)
that the 2000 Yamaha YZF shock would be close.
VTR shock length= 346mm. VTR stroke= 60mm
1996-2000YZF 1000 shock length=340 (+12/-0). YZF stroke =69mm
So I got to looking at Ebay and found this:
Yamaha R1 YZF 1000 YZF1000 Swingarm Rear Suspension Shock 98 99 Y13 | eBay
and started to envy the Yamaha all plate swingarm also. It looks strong as well.
But I know little of the Yamaha rear shock spring rate . But you can buy a different spring , right?
It looks to me from the list...
http://www.customfighters.com/forums...ad.php?t=12827
posted by Scottieman (the link is worth visiting if not for the original poster's signature photo alone)
that the 2000 Yamaha YZF shock would be close.
VTR shock length= 346mm. VTR stroke= 60mm
1996-2000YZF 1000 shock length=340 (+12/-0). YZF stroke =69mm
So I got to looking at Ebay and found this:
Yamaha R1 YZF 1000 YZF1000 Swingarm Rear Suspension Shock 98 99 Y13 | eBay
and started to envy the Yamaha all plate swingarm also. It looks strong as well.
But I know little of the Yamaha rear shock spring rate . But you can buy a different spring , right?
Last edited by Hangfly; 09-16-2015 at 12:23 PM.
09-16-2015, 06:55 PM
#46
Led Sled
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 34
Disclosure: I have little experience in this matter. I do not wish to disrespect a contributor of this forum and provider of fine retrofit shocks. This is merely academic.
It looks to me from the list...
Shock Swap Chart - Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum
posted by Scottieman (the link is worth visiting if not for the original poster's signature photo alone)
that the 2000 Yamaha YZF shock would be close.
VTR shock length= 346mm. VTR stroke= 60mm
1996-2000YZF 1000 shock length=340 (+12/-0). YZF stroke =69mm
So I got to looking at Ebay and found this:
Yamaha R1 YZF 1000 YZF1000 Swingarm Rear Suspension Shock 98 99 Y13 | eBay
and started to envy the Yamaha all plate swingarm also. It looks strong as well.
But I know little of the Yamaha rear shock spring rate . But you can buy a different spring , right?
It looks to me from the list...
Shock Swap Chart - Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum
posted by Scottieman (the link is worth visiting if not for the original poster's signature photo alone)
that the 2000 Yamaha YZF shock would be close.
VTR shock length= 346mm. VTR stroke= 60mm
1996-2000YZF 1000 shock length=340 (+12/-0). YZF stroke =69mm
So I got to looking at Ebay and found this:
Yamaha R1 YZF 1000 YZF1000 Swingarm Rear Suspension Shock 98 99 Y13 | eBay
and started to envy the Yamaha all plate swingarm also. It looks strong as well.
But I know little of the Yamaha rear shock spring rate . But you can buy a different spring , right?
Thanks for the heads up Hangfly. I'm gonna look into obtaining measurements to see if it would somewhat fit. I think James may be correct though. I checked the gap between my battery box and current shock and it does seem pretty close...
09-16-2015, 06:58 PM
#47
Led Sled
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 34
Disclosure: I have little experience in this matter. I do not wish to disrespect a contributor of this forum and provider of fine retrofit shocks. This is merely academic.
It looks to me from the list...
Shock Swap Chart - Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum
posted by Scottieman (the link is worth visiting if not for the original poster's signature photo alone)
that the 2000 Yamaha YZF shock would be close.
VTR shock length= 346mm. VTR stroke= 60mm
1996-2000YZF 1000 shock length=340 (+12/-0). YZF stroke =69mm
So I got to looking at Ebay and found this:
Yamaha R1 YZF 1000 YZF1000 Swingarm Rear Suspension Shock 98 99 Y13 | eBay
and started to envy the Yamaha all plate swingarm also. It looks strong as well.
But I know little of the Yamaha rear shock spring rate . But you can buy a different spring , right?
It looks to me from the list...
Shock Swap Chart - Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum
posted by Scottieman (the link is worth visiting if not for the original poster's signature photo alone)
that the 2000 Yamaha YZF shock would be close.
VTR shock length= 346mm. VTR stroke= 60mm
1996-2000YZF 1000 shock length=340 (+12/-0). YZF stroke =69mm
So I got to looking at Ebay and found this:
Yamaha R1 YZF 1000 YZF1000 Swingarm Rear Suspension Shock 98 99 Y13 | eBay
and started to envy the Yamaha all plate swingarm also. It looks strong as well.
But I know little of the Yamaha rear shock spring rate . But you can buy a different spring , right?
The Shims are already on their way.
09-16-2015, 07:08 PM
#48
Led Sled
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 34
I did not receive any instructions but to be honest it should be self-explanatory. You just need to undo the nut on the clevis where it passes through the frame just at the back of the tank. If you pull the seat off you'll see it easily, a 17mm nut from memory. Once that is off, you need to lift the back of the bike while leaving the wheel resting on the ground. I put a piece of wood under the sidestand foot so the bike is closer to vertical, then put a car jack under the right hand exhaust where the pipes split to the mufflers. Crank the jack up and keep an eye on the gap between the top of the clevis and the underside of the frame cross-member. This is in the gap just behind the rear cylinder head, there should be a rubber flap in this spot that you may need to lift out of the way to see. When you've got a big enough gap, slip the shim into place, then lower the jack and the weight of the bike will hold everything in place while you re-tighten the top nut (44 N-m from memory).
Hopefully the diagrams below will help, I have no photos, sorry. You don't need to disassemble to this extent to install a shim!!!
Hopefully the diagrams below will help, I have no photos, sorry. You don't need to disassemble to this extent to install a shim!!!
I eyed the bolt coming through the subframe and was wondering if it would be long enough once I slip the shim in to bolt on the nut...?
09-21-2015, 02:28 PM
#50
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Fran Freako
Posts: 393
Someone buy this. Before I do.
It states the length is 13.5".
Honda VTR1000 Superhawk Penske Racing Shock Absorber with Eibach Spring | eBay
It states the length is 13.5".
Honda VTR1000 Superhawk Penske Racing Shock Absorber with Eibach Spring | eBay
09-30-2015, 11:28 AM
#51
Led Sled
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 34
Yes indeed it is. IMO the VTR spring is already over pre-loaded so I would not be adding any more preload unless the shock is bottoming out. I ran mine on the lowest setting (I'm 190 pounds). You should be able to buy a shock adjusting spanner on ebay, bad people use a hammer and a punch. The original tool kit has a shock adjuster if you have it. A bit of CRC or similar sprayed on the adjusting collar helps it turn a little easier but it is pretty hard.
For more ride height you are better off slipping a shim between the top clevis and the frame. I have one that is 1/4".
Honda 6mm Rear Shock Shim Spacer VTR 1000 Firestorm CBR 1100 XX Blackbird New | eBay
To install you need to loosen the top nut which is at the back of the tank through the frame, then lift the back of the bike up (I use some wood under the sidestand and a car jack under the exhaust joint on the right) so the clevis bolt drops down just enough to slip the shim in. Then drop the bike back on its wheels before tightening the top nut.
One side effect of this is that your sidestand will now be too short and the bike may lean over further than you'd like. A 2004-6 CBR1000 sidestand bolts right in to sort that.
By the way, as far as I can tell your rear suspension looks all stock to me.
For more ride height you are better off slipping a shim between the top clevis and the frame. I have one that is 1/4".
Honda 6mm Rear Shock Shim Spacer VTR 1000 Firestorm CBR 1100 XX Blackbird New | eBay
To install you need to loosen the top nut which is at the back of the tank through the frame, then lift the back of the bike up (I use some wood under the sidestand and a car jack under the exhaust joint on the right) so the clevis bolt drops down just enough to slip the shim in. Then drop the bike back on its wheels before tightening the top nut.
One side effect of this is that your sidestand will now be too short and the bike may lean over further than you'd like. A 2004-6 CBR1000 sidestand bolts right in to sort that.
By the way, as far as I can tell your rear suspension looks all stock to me.
Shim finally arrived from he UK. Looking forward to wrenching this weekend to get her ready for the road...
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