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Just read "wiring harness " under parts explained on the TRS site. Looks like I guessed correctly (even a broken clock is right twice a day!)
I'll be calling at 8:30. If mine was bad others could be too. Suggest everyone check functionality before sliding the fairing back on. Also it seems the orientation issue taskmasta found is the same on my bike too. Guess I'll use the extra time TRS gave me to bake open the light housing and adjust. The reflector structure is cast so I expect everyones will be identical. Just a heads up here |
Hey thisdude. I applaude you ingenuity. My question is are you hinging you entire lighting system on the kickstand switch.
I ask because I have my headlight on a toggle. When I first did it, the toggle failed far from civilization and I had no lights. I have since only toggled it so hi beam means off but a failed toggle will leave low beam. You may really miss the lights when they arent there. |
The kickstand switch was actually one of my buddies ideas I just did the wiring and made it work. I was looking to use an original switch on the bike, the hi/low beam switch was the easiest solution except the bi-xenon setup actually makes full use of that switch.
I have a toggle switch for my tail lights hidden under my seat on the rear subframe (for those special moments) which had a terminal come loose and basically failed...toggle switches depending on quality will fail if not sealed well and such, the sidestand switch has been good for the last 45K miles on my bike and everything is soldered up and shrink-wrapped...running an amp meter on the kickstand wire it was drawing 0.02 amps and the highest I saw was 0.03 for a split second... the ballast gets power from the battery via the relays, the ground from the stand is just to turn the relays on...if anything its the relays that will go bad but this kit uses 2 relays together as a safety precaution in case one goes bad... but in case the sidestand switch fails out in the middle of nowhere...all I have to do is pop the seat off and take that wire from the sidestand and ground it. the bigger concern I had was if the bulb burnt out, I then don't have a low or high beam to get me home so that would require carrying a spare bulb. |
Originally Posted by Tweety
(Post 329877)
The question is can you get smaller ballasts that work well and are relaible longterm... And the answer to that one is unfortunatley no...
thanks tweety, ill have to find a way to make it work... the headlight on the kz is dreadful |
I'm up and running. It was a reversed diode so I swaped the orange and blue in the H4 connector and am running the Blue to the ballast.
BTW where did everbody put the wiring? I put the relays on the left in the spot where the front coil used to reside and the ballast in basically the same spot on the right. Did anyone else have problems with the bixenon relay wires for the high beam? In with the wiring kit was a hollow connector shell that the spades slid into, but it works like crap. They did not provide wire seals and the spades don't line up well so they get pushed back when plugging into the wiring harness. Seems odd like they forgot to pack the right connector, plus I got an extra orange and black pigtail for some reason. |
Originally Posted by ThisDudeHere
(Post 329971)
The kickstand switch was actually one of my buddies ideas I just did the wiring and made it work. I was looking to use an original switch on the bike, the hi/low beam switch was the easiest solution except the bi-xenon setup actually makes full use of that switch.
I have a toggle switch for my tail lights hidden under my seat on the rear subframe (for those special moments) which had a terminal come loose and basically failed...toggle switches depending on quality will fail if not sealed well and such, the sidestand switch has been good for the last 45K miles on my bike and everything is soldered up and shrink-wrapped...running an amp meter on the kickstand wire it was drawing 0.02 amps and the highest I saw was 0.03 for a split second... the ballast gets power from the battery via the relays, the ground from the stand is just to turn the relays on...if anything its the relays that will go bad but this kit uses 2 relays together as a safety precaution in case one goes bad... but in case the sidestand switch fails out in the middle of nowhere...all I have to do is pop the seat off and take that wire from the sidestand and ground it. the bigger concern I had was if the bulb burnt out, I then don't have a low or high beam to get me home so that would require carrying a spare bulb. |
Got the projector installed and the headlight back in the fairing just have the wiring left.
Where is everyone mounting the ballast and relays? I have everything mocked up but not for sure on it yet just looking for ideas. Thanks, |
anyone else done theirs??
ill hopefully be getting mine apart early this week and tackling the project, what can i use to really clean the lens of the headlight? mine has some grime and probably even some dirt flecks. can they be refurbished or just clean with windex to the best of my ability and call it a day.
also, if i dont have a heat gun what else could i use to get the headlight apart? i might be able to find a gun but who knows... |
Turn the oven on its lowest setting, place the headlight on a piece of cardboard in the oven for 5 minutes. It will pull right apart. Reassemble the same way.
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Originally Posted by kbyers
(Post 331210)
Turn the oven on its lowest setting, place the headlight on a piece of cardboard in the oven for 5 minutes. It will pull right apart. Reassemble the same way.
awesome, that will work great. has no ill effects on the oven? i share with two women in an apartment... |
Or use a hairdryer......
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hey guys, took the headlight apart tonight and mounted the projector, not a bad job at all, granted my "glue" job doesnt look factory but noone will see it :)
just a quick question. the wiring harness has TWO ballast outputs one orange/black and one blue/black the 3five ballast i have only has the plug for 1 output. which do i plug in there and what do i do with the two wires ( red and black) running out of the projector setup? i read as much as i could on TRS already but didnt find the answer. if anyone has some input that would be great! |
I'm not at home right now so I can't check but the easiest way to figure it out is to hook up the wiring, except the plug for the ballast and the high beam shield. Power up the system with the low beam on and look for the relay with the green led on. That is the relay with the plug for the ballast. The other relay is for the high beam and that is the one that plugs into the plug coming out of the headlight.
If this doesn't make sense and no one else helps you out I will look at my bike when I get home, probably this time tomorrow. Good luck. |
What is your 3Five ballast? I think the extra wires are just for another projector if you're running two (say for a car or a yamaha r1)
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1 Attachment(s)
Maybe this pic will help, if your package is the same as mine:
Attachment 24849 The two large question marks are unused for the reason that I stated above. |
ours are quite different, i will post pics shortly
kbyers, your explanation made some sense, i THINK one of the connectors goes to the ballast, then the other i hook up with the supplied end and that goes to the solenoid (wires coming form the projector itself) the others are all self explanatory.
Originally Posted by 7moore7
(Post 331300)
Maybe this pic will help, if your package is the same as mine:
http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/a...re7/wiring.jpg The two large question marks are unused for the reason that I stated above. |
Ok I suspected that from the way you were describing it... but couldn't be sure. I ordered mine before they were really doing motorcycle kits...
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ah that makes sense, the quality is great on this harness and i THINK i have figured it out, how did you write on the picture with the arrows and such?
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...5843295269.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...5843272901.jpg |
im pretty sure the blue/black is for the projector and orange/black is for the ballast, not 100% sure though
they supplied a connector that will mate with the one of the two, and i can use it on the two wires coming from behind the projector setup and then plug it into the blue/black connector...thats what im thining anyway |
I cheated and used Adobe Illlustrator, which is kinda like using a Bugatti to deliver pizzas...
Is one of the plugs for hi and one for low beam? I love the look of projectors inside of stock housing... nice work getting it in there! |
hahahaha ok i was just wondering it really helps to be able to specify what you are talking about. I think thats what it is one of the plugs just runs the solenoid that moves the projector for HI...
i am really pleased with how it turned out, my one concern is that i didnt use any glue or anything to hold the shroud on... its just a pressure fit, and AFTER i had the light back together i realized that it may come off with all the vibrating the hawk does. we will see i guess i just cant wait to see the light difference :)
Originally Posted by 7moore7
(Post 331307)
I cheated and used Adobe Illlustrator, which is kinda like using a Bugatti to deliver pizzas...
Is one of the plugs for hi and one for low beam? I love the look of projectors inside of stock housing... nice work getting it in there! |
SPEEDMETAL HID Light Kit check Cycle Gear - Motorcycle Gear and Motorcycle Accessories - Cycle Gear
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My bike had the HID light kit that just used the factory housing. Just as it seems most HID's set up this way do it seemed bright right around the front of the bike and any signs that were out a ways looked blue and lit up, but it just didn't seem to put a lot of light straight in front of you. I switched it out with a Sylvania Silter Star bulb tonight and man it's WAY better! The light actually goes where it's supposed to. Would be interesting to see how the HID's look with the projector housing but so far I'm likin my Silter Stars!
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You like your silver stars better because they are putting out the light the way it was meant to be done. Dropping hid bulbs into the stock reflector is dangerous. It provides poor light quality due to the fact that the stock reflector scatters the light instead of aiming it. But more importantly it is dangerous to the other drivers on the road. There is not a cut off like the hid projector housing has. These drop in bulbs need to be made illegal.
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Originally Posted by kbyers
(Post 331323)
You like your silver stars better because they are putting out the light the way it was meant to be done. Dropping hid bulbs into the stock reflector is dangerous. It provides poor light quality due to the fact that the stock reflector scatters the light instead of aiming it. But more importantly it is dangerous to the other drivers on the road. There is not a cut off like the hid projector housing has. These drop in bulbs need to be made illegal.
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I agree with you guys totally. All the a-holes on the road running their HID's in factory headlight buckets piss me off because I get sick of getting blinded by them. I've always said I think they like them better because with the disbursement of light directly around you but not projecting out in front of you makes them seem brighter and better when they actually aren't. Just now I've got to experience it for myself.
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well i got it all hooked up and running on my bike tonight, im not 100% happy with the angle of the beam though... i did dremel the rings notches about half way but its still slightly tilted... maybe i just need to find a way to keep it in place once i have it level (superglue???)
its pretty crazy how bright it is, its funny but i dont quite remember what my old light was for brightness... http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...5931054775.jpg http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...5931028945.jpg just for reference that building is about 50 yards away... give or take |
wow man that looks GREAT! I definitly have to do this mod. Im going to paint the inside reflective surface gloss black to complete the look.
Thanks for posting! Definitly on my to do list :D |
HID Kit
Hi, i was looking through this thread and it seems like they have several options on their website as far as shrouds go anyone know which one fits best ie less trimming? Would like to order one this week and get a head start on a winter project.
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All done.
3 Attachment(s)
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Here is a look at mine complete with angle eye.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...69574023_n.jpg |
Originally Posted by Tweety
(Post 330055)
Like others,I applaud your ingenuity... But there is a simpler solution... Just buy a Euro spec switch, and keep the headlight turn off until after cranking... ;)
Anyone have a Honda PN for this "Euro spec switch," Tweety mentioned? Im not finding it in any of the Online parts sites I've looked at (perhaps because none of them are in Europe :D ) Thanks |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Tweety
(Post 327511)
Sportbike Stage III Kit - Complete Retrofit Kits from The Retrofit Source Inc
The projector in that kit is designed to be drop in.. Those of you that purchased this kit... can you tell us what options you choose in the various drop down menus for ordering? Projector? Bulb? Ballast? Shroud? Halo? Thanks |
Originally Posted by E.Marquez
(Post 367414)
Those of you that purchased this kit... can you tell us what options you choose in the various drop down menus for ordering? Projector? Bulb? Ballast? Shroud? Halo? Thanks The bulb, I'd recommend 4300K for visibily, the others are just for looking fancy, and actually gives less light the higher the Kelvin rate are... As for 35W or 55W, match it with the ballast option, same wattage as the bulb... (3five = 35W, 5five = 55W) Other than that it's up to you but 35W is plenty, 55W will only draw more power and get slightly warmer on warm days, no real benefit in actual usable output (there is a difference, but it's very small in real life IMHO)... It's also slightly more bulky to mount, so on a bike, I'd choose 35W, and leave the 55W to cars... Shrouds, I have tried Apollo and E-46, the "old" versions not the extended and such, and both work fine, and look decent... None will cover the projector 100%, and none of them come with mounting, that's up to you to figure out, since you aren't using any stock "cage" to mount the projector in... I'd actually recommend making your own "shroud" really, but that's not for the faint of heart... Halo... Meh... Not for me, so I'll give no opinions... |
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