Just finished installing my new TBR full exhaust with aluminum cans and a Dynojet kit (Friday)
All I can say is WOW !
I can't believe it made such a difference

Bike works really well now and it's a great performance improvement.
Much better at low RPMs from 2k up.
No hesitation or stumbling just good smooth fast acceleration all the way to redline.

Thanks to all on the forum for the tips to make it work right.

Install & tuned in this order:
Install jet kit per Dynojet instructions (jetted for stock air filter)
Reset TPS to 500 ohms (required slotting the shear off bolts with dremel tool cutoff wheel removing with a screw driver, & replacing with 5mm alllen head bolts)
Removed complete PAIR system. Blocked reed valves with rubber stoppers(Home Depot) then covered with 1/2" vacuum cap plug & secured with small hose clamp & plugged airbox hole with 3/4" radiator cap plug (Auto parts store)
FYI - Removing the PAIR system gives better access to the carbs from the right side of the bike
Removed PAIR vacuum line (T connector) source on carb & replaced with single vac line
Replace complete stock exhaust with TBR full system
Syncronized carbs
Fine tuned idle mixture adjustment.

Did a 418 mile day tour on it yesterday & it's running GREAT !
Was following my buddy on his '04 R1 when he did a 70-130 mph (indicated) rolling WOT run along a no traffic smooth several mile long straightaway.
The VTR was keeping it's own with the R1 only very slightly pulling away!
I was really impressed with my bike's performance!
Those R1's are damn fast!

Gonna take it in for a dyno run when I can.

Once again, many thanks to all those forum members who posted their tips on performance mods. It really helped me.

Bill

P.S.
Ordered RC51 PAIR Reed Valve block off plates from Kyleracing.com.
I'll let you know if they work on the VTR1000F

 

Did you install headers too?

 

Yes, it was the TBR full system.
Everything from the heads to the slip-on cans.
The pipes are beautifully polished stainless steel.
It was the last set TBR had. In fact it was in their display case.

 

Awesome man. I have the same exact system on my bike. I love it too.

 

lets see some pics!!!!

 

If you haven't, you really need to try a gearing change next. You might even initially pull the R1 for a bit. You'll never match top end, of course, but that region is of no use on the street, so who cares?

 

Pictures ?
Let's see if I can figure out how to post pics.....



Yes that's a small ding in the header pipe in the above picture...due to poor packing....was damaged during shipping but they have no more pipes to replace it

 

I was thinking of going to a 43 tooth in back with the original 530 chain. Will that help much?

 

BTW.... when we were at the antique tractor pull in De Leon, TX Saturday I weighed the S'hawk on their scales.
It weighed in at 455 lbs with the gas tank on the 2nd mark from empty . (my tank bag was removed & tool kit was still on bike)
They said their scales were accurate within a couple of pounds....but who really knows?

 

Dude, I just put 43T on the rear and I have no idea why the bike came with a different sprocket. I like it a lot. I can wheelie the bike whenever I want now in the first 2 gears and I am not what you call light. If you haven't done it yet, I strongly recommend it. I am glad though I didn't go down one tooth up front, that would have been too much and it would be hard to keep the bike on the ground under hard acceleration.

 

Congrats! on the full system. I put the C2 aluminum slip ons on mine (was all I could afford) and noticed more power in the midrange for sure. It sounds great but was louder than I thought it would be. Better a little too loud than buying a system and wishing it was louder.

The volume on your full system should keep the local wannabe's at bay with their drag pipes. I considered the Jardine street cores RT-1's but if I had bought those I would probably be sitting here wishing it was a little louder. Superhawks sound great with a set of pipes.