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-   -   HID recommendation (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/modifications-performance-29/hid-recommendation-18938/)

finepooch 06-23-2009 04:34 PM

wait a minute... why would the hid harm my stock wiring? doesn't the fuse protect it? i haven't blown a headlamp circuit fuse.

Tweety 06-23-2009 05:30 PM

Because the HID needs about 90-100W or more depending on your ballast when turning on... When it's on it typicly runs at 35W... But that short burst is needed to create and ignite the gas in the bulb...

The stock wiring is supposed to handle 60W as that is what a stock H4 bulb is... But it's seriously under dimensioned for that... Too thin wires and a switch with thin copper contacts and springs to pass on the power isn't optimal...

Long before I even started thinking of a HID I ran a relay and dedicated cables from the battery to power my stock bulb... Why? Because the stock cable's dropped about 4V on the way...

Put in about 14,5V at the battery while running/charging... And out at the bulb I got 10,5V... Since a normal H4 bulb drops more than 50% of its light output once it gets below 12V I got a gloomy yellow light... (Sounds familiar... Right?)


Light output, or luminous intensity drops off faster than the voltage drops because of the relationship between the two.

100% voltage = 100% intensity
95% voltage = 83% intensity
90% voltage = 67% intensity
85% voltage = 53% intensity

A H4 bulb is designed to operate near the 14V your alternator puts out. If you are only getting 12V from the battery when the lights are on, you will only be producing 1/2 of the possible light output.
And then how it can hurt your wiring? Well for one thing the handlebar switch gets a lot of heat from passing the current... Sooner or later it's going to say "bye bye" and yes, then the fuse will blow... But once that happens the swith is already toast and it won't really help standing in the middle of no-where with no light... Especially since swapping the fuse makes no difference with a toasted switch...

And since the HID ballast is supposed to run on a fuse of the same type as a normal bulb, no the fuse won't blow from normal operation... That means nothing in this case as on a car that's built for a HID they put wiring dimensioned for it... And usually relay's in there as well...

Second, right now your HID is getting around 11-12V or so at the best... And it's designed for 14,5V... So you will increase life span on it as well as it is now struggeling to keep the voltage to the bulb up with less than optimal power in... Plus the bulb isn't very happy with the failed starting attempts... It seriously decreases bulb life... And those aren't really cheap...

finepooch 06-23-2009 05:58 PM

well, i think the change could only help - and cannot hurt.

why not put the delay relay in the first time? i know you're saying i don't need it, but would it hurt things?

Tweety 06-23-2009 06:06 PM

Nope... Won't hurt... ;)

Go for it...

minispeed 06-23-2009 06:07 PM

If you're really worried about blinding people pay close attention to your colour temp.

4300k will be the most blinding. 3000k will be slightly yellow, amazing in fog and less blinding. 8000k + will not blind that much but will be very blue or purple. 6000k is the best ballance, from the front less intense and a little blue but looks white and almost the same as 4300k from the drivers perspective. Most stock HID systems use around 4300k.

uchi 08-17-2009 12:13 PM

this is all great info. ive been interested in a light upgrade and almost bought a silverstar for my firestorm last night, but the light output is such crap that im not even sure a silverstar will make a noticeable difference. although a projector sounds like a great winter project for when i need to get away from the wife for a few hours at a time :D


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