Golan Fuel Filter
 

Hi!

Just wanted to pass on the sucess story of installing a re-usable Golan fuel filter on a Storm.. Any owner will quickly realise the lack of in-line filter on these bikes. Yes we all know the tank has an integrated one but does that comfort you?
Most would so no, you cant see what its picking up and you have no idea of its condition or even how fine it is...

Solution- Inline filter!

This Golan product comes in a $53 AUS and is reusable. The 10micron mesh is fine enough to pick up all the nasty's and its fits in nicely on the bend in the fuel line.
Easy install, easy service, piece of mind.. WIN!

Nice piece of kit. I can only look on in envy. You've got a 19 litre tank. Canada and the U.S.A. only got the 16 litre version which has the fuel tap attached to the tank.

It is an '05 with the 19lt tank your right.. but we also get the carby restrictors on both cylinders limiting us to 100Hp :(
That's the next trick.. a full carby rebuild with Factory Pro 1.1Ti :cool:

Why?

If it's the same as the European version of it, it's just a "D" shaped metal inser in the carb rubber... Grind it out to a circular ring, and set the jetting accordingly... Never mind the "jet kit", most of them are less efficient than using OEM parts of the right sizes...

Slightly off topic....
 

:iagree:

This is true enough and a big part of why I subscribed to this and pretty much every other VTR forum on the web, to get ideas of what works, whats good and more importantly what not to do!
Your very own experiences and posts Tweety have been on the reading list.. :kneel:

To go slightly off topic of fuel filters and into the general discussion of whats in store for my Storm (of which better flowing and clean fuel is a part of).

Its already got an aftermarket Remus exhaust which I've done a bafflectomy on. But I went one better and did the grind job on the cross-over from 2-1-2. = More air out, that alone created a quicker rev response but also a flat-stop.

Most recently I did an Air-box 0.5-Mod on the OEM air-filter and box by removing the snorkel and baffle plate in both the element and box.. more air in = Enlarged that flat spot.

TPS mod helped smooth things out a little..

So whats next..
Next is to remove that 'D' shapped section in the inlet and replace the OEM short V-stack with another long stack (two OEM long V-stacks).

- And so to the jetting to cure all (he says wishfully)..
From my research, plan is to go up to 48 mains (50 come with the FP kit so have purchased 48's separately) and 185-190's accordingly, then begin the 'tweak'..

You may have noticed Im running another post right now on the virtues of Air Fuel Monitors as initial tuning tools. This is to gauge some public opinion on their usefulness..

As to the 'why'... I think every member here has their own motivations. Search of more HP, A racing edge, refinement, the love of making something 'better' or just cos the idea of being indoors with their partner is less appealing that being out in a freezing garage tinkering..

My 'why'... I just wanna see something be all it can be.. put my stamp on it and and call it 'my own' :lol:

In my experience, the baffle plate helps control airflow (I'm assuming you're talking about the long wall on top of the air filter itself). In fact, it slightly improved the K&N I was using when I made one for it.

The tuning is somewhat theoretical, but higher flow above the filter element doesn't necessarily translate into usable air for the carbs... some suggest that it gets very turbulent when it rushes through the filter which makes it hard to tune for an even fuel/air setting. This is why people like mikstr have tried to make a larger volume air box below the air filter element. It's just a thought, but you may want to play with attaching a plate back on your filter as one of your variables (it could be there to control and smooth out the incoming air).

Cheers for the added info 7moore7.. always good to get the more experienced guys such as yourself putting in their 2c worth.
Luckily I've kept the airbox baffle somewhere. Will defiantly add back in if I don't get consistant airflow into the carbs.
What do you think about the two long V-Stacks? Im in search of better mid-range and was told the longer lengths improve venturi effect in that part of the rev range.