Satisfying to take that first ride right? The quicker steering is due to front ride ht lower relative to rear. Do you have the tubes down as far as they will go in the triples? Are you running a rear spacer or aftermarket shock?

Its a geometry thing. Did you measure the old forks compared to the new ones? That would be a starting point.

Yeah, very satisfying. Thought I'd never be done.
Took a measurement before the swap and I am a bit higher now, 6-8mm. I am questioning if I am taking the measurement the same way. I would have expected it to be less.
Using a top triple from a 954. The forks are through about 50mm, which is the height of the clamp on the clip ons. I'm going to set the preload first, then play with the fork height. Had a wise old moto head give me some pointers on what to do.
The shock is a Fox TC and I have it somewhere less than the 11mm max that is recommended as the limit. I'm not at my garage so I can't check my notes on either of those numbers.
Still have the front fender to paint and deal with the positioning of the brake master. Most likely will have to ditch the micro switch for the stop lights and go to a banjo bolt switch. The length of the clip ons need to be shortened, and then back bored to allow bar ends to fit.

looking good sir i have to say..

Wait, you have usd forks up past the triples? Enuff to put clip ons? That's waay too far up. Stockers can do that but youre gonna have to do something like I did and get riser bars that mount under the triples if you want reasonable geometry. That would explain you on its nose handling which really would be borderline dangerous at that angle.

Not so sure about that. Remember the 954 top triple is gull wing. It also does not explain the almost same measurement from floor to the bottom on the frame at the steering head. Both stock forks and the SP1 forks are very close in length. Not currently where I can look at my notes. I think that others can verify that.
The bike does not feel unstable at all. In fact it feels more stable than before the swap.

Yeah my cbr forks have the gull wing too. What is your measurement from bottom of bottom triple to axle center? (bike at rest no rider)

I ask as much to get a reference for my setup since I am still tweaking the geometry.

I can get you that measure tomorrow AM.

Joe, from the bottom of the bottom triple to the center of the axle is 18 11/32”

Hmmm, mine is 19 1/8 both stock and now. That would explain the difference. Pretty sure your number is substantially shorter than stock. I could be wrong as always but for sure my number stock is this one.
I don't think the RC51 mounted the bars above the triples.

You're right, but the triple on a RC is flat.

SP1 forks,https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...dc68cbce37.jpg
and stock clutch master converted to use a remote reservoir.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sup...e532b3e211.jpg

Right so if they are flat, that would mean extending them above the triple would mean even less tube extended below the bottom triple. Thus the much shorter forks.

I get what you are saying. If the forks are at a position where the top is flush with a flat triple, and swap in a gull wing, with out moving the forks, there would now be fork tube above the triple by the amount of the gull wing offset.
What is needed is a measure from a completely stock setup. Say, on the side stand, floor to bottom of the steering head just behind the bottom triple.

Yes but it would be more accurate to have the bike at rest balanced upright which would be static sag. This would be the at rest unaided length of the forks. That is what the 19 1/8" was on my stock forks. That's the number.

Agreed. But I think that if the static positions are the same, how ever it is, the measurement will be comparable. Also I was hoping to make this as easy as possible so to entice someone to take the measurement for me.
Sp1 forks are longer than any of the CBR forks. A bit longer than even the SP2 forks, maybe.

After two tanks of gas, I can say that the new forks are something the bike should of had right from the factory. The front went from smoke signal vague to fiber optic clarity.
A little fine tuning, soften compression a bit, maybe a 1/2 turn more pre-load, drop the rear height a couple of mm and I think I'll be done, for now.
Still have a front brake lever position issue due to the micro switch. Planning to take final measurements for new custom brake lines to rid myself of the dual lines (never like them) and go with a banjo bole switch. Then the micro switch can go into the spares box.
Wish I had a radial master I could use to check for interference. Would rather have a radial, but if I commit to new lines for the current master (954) I'm unsure if the new lines would fit (mounting orientation of banjo) a radial master.
The HRC throttle is certainly a surprise. The access the power curve is astounding. If I had to ride in traffic all the time I think it would get very tiring. As I don't commute, I'll just enjoy the new instant power the engine has.
Was it worth it? It cost a lot, more that my naivety budgeted amount. For me, this is how all my projects go. I should be used to it by now. Short answer, YES.

Agree, a complete front end replacement is the best mod for this bike, it is the biggest and most noticeable upgrade for the VTR by far.

Soooo, if anyone is interested in a complete bolt-on cbr1000rr front end, hit me up!!

Weakness revealed
 

Received some base line settings for SP forks from a very experienced source. Compression at mid point, rebound 1 1/2 turns out. Much more pleasant to ride on bumpy pavement. I need to find an LEO free road that I can make repeated runs and see if I can get the rebound a bit better
The much stiffer forks have revealed the lack of rigidity in the swing arm. So it's now time to finish the swing arm brace that's been sitting on my bench for a few years.

So xeris at your raving about the handling I decided to lower my front end .75".(raise the tubes in the triples. Its way better now. I feel like the fork oil I changed is too thick and maybe too high a level so will remove some soon.

The lower front seems to put more weight on the front so bumps are absorbed better. May go even lower.

The quest never ends.

Xeris,
Do the braced swinger.
It is a worthy mod and settles the bike down heaps, especially when lent over in the corners on the gas. It also works well with the USD front end.

I have found with this bike that if you do one mod it necessitates another.

I am waiting on a Jamie shock and hopefully that will take care of the running gear.( Famous last words)'
I would like like $100- for everytime I have said that over the last 6 years or so. Let us know when you get the brace on and what you think ..

Yup, that's the issue now.

Hopefully I can report on that sooner than later.

WOW! That's a huge change. I went in increments of 3mm to find the hot spot.

Least you forget, that's Joe your talking about. You know, the guy for whom winter doesn't exist.

So what are/is the best tires and oil ??? bahahhaaa

The "whole front end" as in basically keep the brakes, bars, levers, "EVERYTHING as is when doing a fork swap; so essentially having to get 'those particular' bike parts when doing brake jobs, etc?

Hey guys, when giving suggestions about places like "Daugherty Motorsports" and "RaceTech", etc, please provide contact or business info/link for us to contact or research them [unless against a forum rule I'm not aware of]. I think that'd be pretty swell haa. thx

Great info on your experience...could you clarify a bit more? I'm in position to be doing a front swap as soon as I get my insurance money together.
Shit, I'd very much appreciate anyone/everyone's .02 on the front swap scenario. Bc if I'm about to get paid for a OEM VTR1000 front fork, I may as well do the upgrade people suggest, whether it be the whole front end from a CBR600 or can/should I try to get ahold of a dif front end? THANKS GUYS, and any gals out there on the on these awesome birdbikes.

And how did that work out for you? Why taking it off? What going to replace with?

So will pm you eventually but xeris what is your measurements on
1. Full fork length top of tube to bottom (whilst on stand like you said)
2. Distance from bottom of triple to axle center (rt leg on stand again)

I just want to see how close we are but also, we need to establish rear ride ht (if you care to) since its all relative. I have a Penske shock and one spacer @ 3mm on the shock mount.

Help would be.....helpful..Thanks

And yeah guys, .75 in is the MINIMUM change on an ATTACK motorcycle. I want quick turn in and I want it yesterday. Intuitive steering is mandatory.

Also, here in NYC we have roving biker gangs that zoom the streets on totally illegal quads & dirtbikes at night with no lights, etc. Just saw one last night. I don't condone it but it is cool to ride around with them for a minute. Very mad max. Some of the groups from the Bronx and Harlem are like 50 bikes strong.

All the more reason to fit a Gatling gun to your ATTACK motorcycle.