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-   -   CBR1000 fork legs; what triples (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/modifications-performance-29/cbr1000-fork-legs%3B-what-triples-21012/)

smokinjoe73 12-13-2009 08:45 PM

CBR1000 fork legs; what triples
 

OK so I got the tubes but cant seem to find a real answer on what triples will actually fit. Do the 954 triples fit the tubes? Same diameter right?

inderocker 12-13-2009 09:39 PM

As far as I know, yes. RC52 SP1 triples should work too.

VTS 12-13-2009 09:45 PM

Check out Hawkrider's bike, I believe he has 1000RR forks with 929/954 triples...

8541Hawk 12-13-2009 11:32 PM

954 lowers are the easiest to use as you don't need to trim the fairing as you do with the SP1 lowers. The SP2 has a different diameter stem so don't try that one.

For the upper you need to decide if you want a flat or gull wing plate and use either a 954 or SP1 to suit your needs.

JamieDaugherty 12-14-2009 03:39 AM

The best choice is CBR929/954 triples. I think others, such as the 05+ CBR600RR or CBR1000RR, are the same thing but I can't say that for sure.

inderocker 12-14-2009 08:29 AM


Originally Posted by JamieDaugherty (Post 246708)
The best choice is CBR929/954 triples.

+1

CBR1000RR has provisions for the Honda steering stabilizer... kinda ugly and the CBR600RR's run 48mm forks.

mikstr 12-14-2009 08:34 AM


Originally Posted by inderocker (Post 246732)
+1

CBR1000RR has provisions for the Honda steering stabilizer... kinda ugly and the CBR600RR's run 48mm forks.

48 mm uppers, with 41 mm tubes (as opposed to 50/43 on the others)

woodster 12-30-2009 10:14 PM

i've been reading these posts and they have alot of valueable info my question is what do you think about sending suspension to race tech to have them revalved because i like the stock look

lazn 12-30-2009 11:10 PM


Originally Posted by woodster (Post 248499)
i've been reading these posts and they have alot of valueable info my question is what do you think about sending suspension to race tech to have them revalved because i like the stock look

Send them to either Greg (Hawkrider) or Jamie (JamieDaugherty) and have them revalve and respring them.

They both use RaceTech parts, and are the experts on our exact bike they can do the best job. (and for a reasonable price too)

JamieDaugherty 12-31-2009 07:52 AM


Originally Posted by woodster (Post 248499)
i've been reading these posts and they have alot of valueable info my question is what do you think about sending suspension to race tech to have them revalved because i like the stock look


Absolutely, there is a lot of performance to be gained by upgrading the internals of the stock parts, bot front and rear. A complete front end change takes that up another notch, but I understand that it's a lot of work (and $$$) so it's something everyone would be interested in doing.

mikstr 12-31-2009 10:33 AM

once re-valved and re-sprung, adding a brace adds a lot too

woodster 01-04-2010 03:49 PM

well that is what im going to do for as hard as i ride it will do the job and i have used fork braces on my dirt bike and harley and they work great james i'll send you a e-mail when i get ready thanks

woodster 01-04-2010 03:59 PM

i apologize i mean jamie

Hawkrider 01-05-2010 05:28 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by lazn (Post 248501)
Send them to either Greg (Hawkrider) or Jamie (JamieDaugherty) and have them revalve and respring them.

They both use RaceTech parts, and are the experts on our exact bike they can do the best job. (and for a reasonable price too)

To clarify, I do not use Racetech parts. I use modified stock parts with my own shimstacks. Our stock Showa 4-port valves are very similar to Ohlins valves, which also work very well. Honda uses mostly the HMAS stuff now, which has three larger ports. See the below pic for differences.

lazn 01-05-2010 07:57 PM


Originally Posted by Hawkrider (Post 249013)
To clarify, I do not use Racetech parts. I use modified stock parts with my own shimstacks. Our stock Showa 4-port valves are very similar to Ohlins valves, which also work very well. Honda uses mostly the HMAS stuff now, which has three larger ports. See the below pic for differences.

I hadn't realized that :P I just assumed, and we all know what that means.

smokinjoe73 01-05-2010 08:19 PM

OK, so to jack my own thread, are 100RR lowers compatible with 954 uppers (triples that is). I know someone knows this, share the power.(knowlege)

Hawkrider 01-05-2010 09:04 PM

Yes, and there is only about a 2mm difference between widths on the 1000RR and the 954/929 triples, which means that you can use stock spacers on the 1000RR wheel.

smokinjoe73 01-05-2010 09:13 PM

So if there is 2mm diff in width, how do the tubes allign?

killer5280 01-05-2010 09:23 PM


Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 (Post 249034)
So if there is 2mm diff in width, how do the tubes allign?

+1. Is there enough play in all the tolerances to use a 954 upper triple with a 1000RR lower? Is the 2mm difference too little to be of significance?

lazn 01-05-2010 10:23 PM

HawkRider is one of two that I KNOW are using CBR1000RR forks, and both he and Tweety are using 929/954 triples.

I think what he means is that if you use the 929/954 triples you can use the stock wheel spacers at the bottom of the fork.. However I don't think you can mix a CBR1000RR lower triple with a 929/954 upper triple. I will be corrected if I am wrong though I am sure.

Hawkrider 01-06-2010 02:41 PM

That's correct. You have to use upper and lower from the 954/929. The 2mm difference means that the 929/954 triples place the forks 2mm wider then the 1000RR. Since there is much more than that stock (probably close to 3mm each side) that just means that it will be a smidgen more difficult to get the wheel installed as there is not as much play. Also this will be easier on your fork bushings since the forks are not torqued inward towards each other.

Hawkrider 01-06-2010 02:45 PM

BTW guys, PLEASE read my fork swap thread here for all info: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ight=fork+swap

JamieDaugherty 01-06-2010 06:46 PM


Originally Posted by Hawkrider (Post 249013)
To clarify, I do not use Racetech parts. I use modified stock parts with my own shimstacks. Our stock Showa 4-port valves are very similar to Ohlins valves, which also work very well. Honda uses mostly the HMAS stuff now, which has three larger ports. See the below pic for differences.

Correction: the Honda HMAS valves are the ones that use the small 4 holes. On newer models Showa has been going back to the old style 3-port valves, which I feel are superior. The RaceTech valves are a high flow type similar to those valves.

For those who are not asleep by now, please note that Greg does not leave the HMAS valves stock but adds some modifications. There are limitations to what the stock valves can do, that's why a change makes an improvement. The way it's done really depends on what you are after, which is why getting together with an experienced suspension tuner with data on your particular bike is really helpful.

VTS 01-07-2010 08:38 AM

Greg or anyone else.....what do you think about me changing out my front forks from 954 to 1000rr?
I don't ride hard enough on the street to think the 1000 forks will do anything for me. The only things I can pick out is...

-The radial brakes for cool/modern factor
-smaller rotors for less recipricating mass, slightly better handling.
-1000RR forks are shorter, slightly quicker handling as well.

I have a friend that road races in the open vintage class, 96 900RR.
He switched out to 1000RR forks and found it made the bike a little too twitchy for his liking. He went back to the taller 954 forks. 17" front wheel whole time. I clearly understand the SH is entirely different than the old 900RR, (wheelbase, weight distribution, chassis stiffness, so on...) Greg doesn't seem to complain of how his SH handles with the shorter forks.
For me these might just be enough to switch. Anything else I am overlooking?
My 954RR forks,brake calipers,front wheel might be up for grabs soon.:cool:

JamieDaugherty 01-07-2010 09:27 AM

I'd say you should be ok. Just remember that you should always check your chassis dimensions (front ride height, in this case) before and after making a change like this. That way you can ensure that you are making only a small change in geometry. Big changes are bad and can cause you to chase your tail trying to figure it out. Knowledge is power!

Tweety 01-07-2010 09:36 AM

I'm not complaining either...;)

As far as them being shorter, the amount is minimal, in reality even less than measured in rest, as the 1000RR's are heavier sprung and therefore have less static sag than the 954RR's...

So unless you are either very light or have the 954RR's resprung to your weight the actual lenght of the forks should end up about the same...

I kind of doubt the change from a 954RR to 1000RR forks in terms of lenght was the reason for them being twitchier, I'd say there was some other setup problem that caused that behaviour...

VTS 01-07-2010 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by Tweety (Post 249235)
I'm not complaining either...;)

I kind of doubt the change from a 954RR to 1000RR forks in terms of lenght was the reason for them being twitchier, I'd say there was some other setup problem that caused that behaviour...

I would have to agree with you on this, very much a possibility.

Testament that you and Greg are riding with them without issue is really enough for me.

My question is if you already had a "good" 954 setup would you still go after the 1000. Thinking about it, I can do it without spending a whole lot at this point because I can offset the cost with the sale of the 954 parts. I guess I'll just have to do it then....:shock:

Hawkrider 01-07-2010 05:30 PM


Originally Posted by JamieDaugherty (Post 249166)
Correction: the Honda HMAS valves are the ones that use the small 4 holes. On newer models Showa has been going back to the old style 3-port valves, which I feel are superior. The RaceTech valves are a high flow type similar to those valves.

For those who are not asleep by now, please note that Greg does not leave the HMAS valves stock but adds some modifications. There are limitations to what the stock valves can do, that's why a change makes an improvement. The way it's done really depends on what you are after, which is why getting together with an experienced suspension tuner with data on your particular bike is really helpful.

Eh, yeah maybe using "HMAS" as a description isn't accurate. Honda has called pretty much everything from the late 90's until now "HMAS". That stands for Honda Multi Action Suspension, BTW. This includes the smaller 4-ports AND the larger 3-ports. The specs on my 1000RR (which have the 3-ports) say HMAS...so sorry about that.

BTW, Doug's (nuhawk's) Superhawk has Showa 3-ports from a GSX-R600. He's very happy with 'em.


Originally Posted by VTS (Post 249221)
Greg or anyone else.....what do you think about me changing out my front forks from 954 to 1000rr?
I don't ride hard enough on the street to think the 1000 forks will do anything for me. The only things I can pick out is...

-The radial brakes for cool/modern factor
-smaller rotors for less recipricating mass, slightly better handling.
-1000RR forks are shorter, slightly quicker handling as well.

I have a friend that road races in the open vintage class, 96 900RR.
He switched out to 1000RR forks and found it made the bike a little too twitchy for his liking. He went back to the taller 954 forks. 17" front wheel whole time. I clearly understand the SH is entirely different than the old 900RR, (wheelbase, weight distribution, chassis stiffness, so on...) Greg doesn't seem to complain of how his SH handles with the shorter forks.
For me these might just be enough to switch. Anything else I am overlooking?
My 954RR forks,brake calipers,front wheel might be up for grabs soon.:cool:

Well, first of all you should be a good technician and a good rider to really need the 1000RR forks, or any USD fork swap for that matter. The differences in suspension action between a fully worked stock VTR fork (w/brace) and the 1000RR forks is surprisingly little. I'd say the biggest difference is in fork dive. The 1000RR forks have a mid-valve which helps control this. Our forks do not, nor would they readily accept them without a different style valve and some additional modifications. What I was really most impressed with was the difference in brakes. I had Galfer waves, EBC HH, 954 master, and braided lines. Still the difference was HUGE. I cannot say enough.

The rotors are larger, not smaller. The wheel is lighter though. I'd say it's a net gain in our favor.

The length should not be considered because the clipons will have to be mounted below the upper triple with the fork swap. That's a pretty big allowance for length. It's all in how you set it up. I had some wierd handling issues until I got things sorted out. I actually raised the forks in the triples because the rake and trail numbers were too far off (forks too long).

Another thing you have to consider during setup is that the completely different forks required completely different sag numbers - ~35mm laden sag vice ~25mm laden sag stock. This is due to longer top-out springs in the cartridge assemblies. It's a long discussion and would rather not go to in-depth right now.

So ultimately, if you're on the fence about sending the stockers off vice doing a front end swap depends on two things: Money and tech ability. The fork swap will be about 2-3 times as much as a revalve and respring after all is said and done. If you're good at this kind of shit and have the right tools, and won't dick it up when you start tearing into things then maybe it's for you.

List of things you'll need for a 1000RR fork swap that cost money:

-New bearings and races (AllBalls)
-1000RR front wheel, spacers, and axle
-929/954 triple clamps
-1000RR calipers, pads, rotors, and caliper bolts (spacers and longer bolts required for 06-07)
-1000RR front fender in your color (or carbon fiber) with hardware
-Ignition switch bezel (depending on year of VTR)
-Adjustable clip-ons with TALL risers (I used Convertibars)
-Wheel weights for spacers on steering lock
-Grinder or Dremel to grind steering stop
-Need to swap tire to new wheel and balance
-Hardware to clamp front brake lines
-Don't forget bar ends since they usually don't come with the clip-ons
-Grip glue (and maybe new grips?)

Do the math, then make your decision.

Tweety 01-07-2010 06:03 PM


Originally Posted by VTS (Post 249244)
I would have to agree with you on this, very much a possibility.

Testament that you and Greg are riding with them without issue is really enough for me.

My question is if you already had a "good" 954 setup would you still go after the 1000. Thinking about it, I can do it without spending a whole lot at this point because I can offset the cost with the sale of the 954 parts. I guess I'll just have to do it then....:shock:

I think the lenght difference from 954 to 1000RR is 10mm or so... And that is about the lenght I have showing above my triples at the moment... With them sitting flush it was a bit unsteady...

Greg is right, on all counts...;) But he's comparing VTR forks to CBR 1000RR...

The 954 has 330mm rotors and the 1000RR has either 310mm or 320mm depending on the year... The wheel is somewhat lighter than the 954 wheel though...

As for the clip-ons... If it's working now it should work then...;)

I'd say go for it...;) You will like the brakes...

Hawkrider 01-07-2010 06:07 PM

Heh, I wish I'd actually READ his post. Yeah, 954 to 1000RR swap. Ain't I a dumbass....

Short answer: probably not worth the time, effort, and money. Maybe a revalve on the 954 forks would be a better value.


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