best mods for performance?
#35
Making a VTR perform comparably to a GSXR is a long road even for guys who know the bike inside-out. Know that you will do a lot of work on a bike that will not be 'right' without several rounds of disassembly for tuning/re-jetting (since you're looking headwork/pistons/unknown combinations).
If you want to build more than ride then enjoy, but if you want to ride and smoke your buddy, sell the SH, buy a modern I4 1000, slap a dull paint job on and no loud muffler (sleeper, right?) And avoid spending $1,000's more and missing a ton of riding.
If you want to build more than ride then enjoy, but if you want to ride and smoke your buddy, sell the SH, buy a modern I4 1000, slap a dull paint job on and no loud muffler (sleeper, right?) And avoid spending $1,000's more and missing a ton of riding.
#36
I hate his comment "my stuff looks better and is always faster than yours" well challenge accepted for I will build it to be faster mainly bc he is a dumb ads and I want to prove him wrong. Speeds expensive how fast do you wanna go? My answer Fast
#37
Search for Moriwaki VTR Firestorm Revolution Racing and Roger Ditchfield.
VTR1000F Stage 1A to 3 110 – 150 BHP. A truly great riding experience. The Stage 3 was raced by Mark Ditchfield and “guest” raced by Gus Scott in British Superbikes. This was reported in Performance Bikes as ‘a fantastic ride’. This is truly a great bike.
Last edited by Wicky; 11-25-2013 at 07:23 PM.
#38
Get a better racing platform to begin with. You'll be a happier man. ;-)
#40
I know this is off topic, but Wicky, in that first picture, when you zoom in, there is what looks like clear tubing with a valve of sorts running from the tail to under the gas tank. Is there a fuel tank in the tail?
Edit: I just noticed what looks like a fuel filter in the tail in the third picture. Is that what that is?
Edit: I just noticed what looks like a fuel filter in the tail in the third picture. Is that what that is?
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 11-25-2013 at 11:07 PM.
#41
Why take the bait? Of course his bike is faster, it was built to race. You're banging your head against a wall trying to build a VTR into something it wasn't meant to be (that race bike above probably only lasts a track day or two between engine rebuilds..).
Get a better racing platform to begin with. You'll be a happier man. ;-)
Get a better racing platform to begin with. You'll be a happier man. ;-)
Ie 135 plus at the rear wheel, and 50k miles... A bit more than just a trackday, huh?
#42
FWIW, going to a larger header (ie. 2.25") unless your engine is heavily modded, will likely result in a drop in performance. At the very least, you can kiss your low-end and midrange goodbye.......
#43
Indeed it is. I would have expected an engine that was engineered for ~105hp with 9:1 compression to be more problematic (crank, mains, trans, etc.) at that state of tune. How much did it cost to get there?
#45
Lightened flywheel?
Is there an exchange service or is there a recommendation on shops in SoCal that can lighten my stocker. I'm just looking for a little more "Pep" I'm an old dude that doesn't need more top speed I just want to get up to speed a little quicker.
P.S. According to the California Highway Patrol, Yellow is faster!
P.S. According to the California Highway Patrol, Yellow is faster!
#47
Well... At an output in that range mentioned my engine is on it's fifth season of daily riding, averaging around 10k miles each year (to and from work apart from the icy months, plus a fairly decent trip each year...) So I see no reason why it shouldn't be possible to squeeze around 150 out of it, and have it last close to indefinitely...
Ie 135 plus at the rear wheel, and 50k miles... A bit more than just a trackday, huh?
Ie 135 plus at the rear wheel, and 50k miles... A bit more than just a trackday, huh?
as to thread topic...
SS brake & clutch lines
HH+ pads
F4i calipers & SP2 MC
Proper jetting & calibration
fuel filters
decent slip-ons
ZG DB or eq
Tommaselli 3-way bars
Manual CCT
regular valve lash adjustment
direct connect mosfet VRR
12~14 gauge wire headlight feed
Chevron Techron every 5th tankful & Stabil Marine
Shell Rotella syn 10w-40
track days
ATGATT
heated vest & grips
lowered pegs & heel guards
Sargent saddle
gel grips
#48
As far as motor, lightening the flywheel IMO is the best bang for the buck. And really dialing the carbs (not just throwing a kit in there, but actually tuning them).
Everything else gets much more costly for the performance, and is best done in conjunction with each other (overbore, aftermarket cams, full exhaust, etc).
Everything else gets much more costly for the performance, and is best done in conjunction with each other (overbore, aftermarket cams, full exhaust, etc).
#51
Is there an exchange service or is there a recommendation on shops in SoCal that can lighten my stocker. I'm just looking for a little more "Pep" I'm an old dude that doesn't need more top speed I just want to get up to speed a little quicker.
P.S. According to the California Highway Patrol, Yellow is faster!
P.S. According to the California Highway Patrol, Yellow is faster!
#52
Personally I lyk the +4 ignition advancer & I would say proper tuning & im talking carbs & jetting adjusting tps & pair removal helps also my next upgrade will b the flywheel mod it sure seems lyk ev1 is happy w theres any1 no were I can get mine machined at?
#53
Blowing hot air at this thread.
This bike isnt getting any younger. I looked at the specs of newer bikes and was not happy with the bike style I liked. I forgot the name PC is being slow and im lazy. That being said.
Did you get 150 out of it? Im ripping the engine down this winter to make sure my clutch is indeed the noise I hear. I want to do the full 9. I never neded a flow bench to do my ports had a real machinist check and all was good.
Some good rods. CP carillo maybe? Specs anyone? Been searching tweety in the box.
Some slugs hypothetic possibly and what ever brand tickles my fancy. Suggestions?
Crank to match.
Have my bike shop get that flywheel skinny.
Replace all bearings. ( Felt I had to say it.)
EFI is on the dream list.
I have a huge fear of compression. btw
If its cheap compared to a car I bet it is. I want to o ring the head. Then again I dont know what the head looks like.
I know there might be a big breeze coming from my rear but I am trying to net 150 reliable pump gas h.p.
Please help the stupid kid. (ME) Gasoline and noise are crack to me.
Did you get 150 out of it? Im ripping the engine down this winter to make sure my clutch is indeed the noise I hear. I want to do the full 9. I never neded a flow bench to do my ports had a real machinist check and all was good.
Some good rods. CP carillo maybe? Specs anyone? Been searching tweety in the box.
Some slugs hypothetic possibly and what ever brand tickles my fancy. Suggestions?
Crank to match.
Have my bike shop get that flywheel skinny.
Replace all bearings. ( Felt I had to say it.)
EFI is on the dream list.
I have a huge fear of compression. btw
If its cheap compared to a car I bet it is. I want to o ring the head. Then again I dont know what the head looks like.
I know there might be a big breeze coming from my rear but I am trying to net 150 reliable pump gas h.p.
Please help the stupid kid. (ME) Gasoline and noise are crack to me.
#54
I have not gone down this road but from what I recall from reading others' experiences I believe 130 hp is the max the crankshaft can be reliably expected to handle due to being a pressed asssembly... but my back end gets breezy too, so I could be wrong about that.
#55
I may just
This winter I may not go full tap as it may be mild this year. I may just do slugs rods and a balance with the flywheel for now. I want efI but Might be stuck making parts. cheap lathe here is 1000 usd. 1000 on postons or efI.... pistons. Ill post in this thread after I pull the engine. 2 months to go so no breath holding.
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