LED halo? Cool. :cool:

Um hi.....

WHERE THE FUCK DID YOU GO?????????





Nice work BTW looks great, cant wait to see it all functional, I'm assuming the LED's are turn signals?

CrankenFine I see no halo, however Mat if you would like a halo I have a couple laying around (BMW)...

UPDATE

So, I took a bit of a break, because I screwed something up. The bike is back in pieces...and so is my new engine. It has sat like this for several months. Since we have had some fantastic weather lately and we are getting some great thunderstorms to wash the salt off the roads, I got the itch to finish the project. I will be doing regular updates to show progress.

One cool thing I should note, along with my Lincoln Electric MIG setup, I now have a Lincoln Electric Square Wave TIG 200! Man, I really like this machine. My first TIG setup and really like what I can do with it. What does that mean for the Superhawk? Aluminum fairing stay and aluminum subframe for starters.

For those that asked about the LED's in the headlight, yes those are for turn signals. Very bright yellow LED's. Not sure how well traffic will be able to see them, being so close the HID headlight, but I wanted to try it. If they can't be seen well, I am going to fabricate and blend in a small housing into the brake and clutch lever for some SMD LED's.

I'll post an update with pictures soon.

Welcome back Crux,

Hope all is well and am anxiously waiting to see the finished product!

The crux of the matter is.........Welcome back!!

Here Here!

Pics please You Casper. Want to see what it's like

Looking good, keep at it!

All cleaned up and ready for assembly... again.

More pictures to come.

I need to paint the starter again. It looks like crap in that picture. Wondering if I should stick with silver or hit it with gloss black. Hmm...

Attachment 21685

Gold, paint it gold.

Stick a JD can on it like I did!

Oh yeah!

Even the smallest of items aren't getting overlooked on this rebuild.

Attachment 21672

I have a few items (braced swingarm, Ohlins spring and some brackets) out for powdercoating, so I have to tackle the fork rebuild and to be honest, I have never rebuilt a set of forks. I have replaced the odd leaky seal before, but never a complete rebuild. I found someone that kind of outlined what to do with thier CBR954RR forks and from what I understand, my CBR1000RR forks are pretty much identical. I hope nothing is broken, since one fork sits about 10mm lower than the other.

If anybody has any advice, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Here's my workbench at the moment. I need to clean it up in order to get 'r dirty!

Attachment 21673

Those doohickies in the top picture are the fluid tensioning apparatus from your forks.

Hope this helps.

The fork rebuild went smashingly well. I kinda broke that white, totally tubular looking doohickey (more on that below). So, that required yet another parts order from Partzilla.com. Speaking of which, I was curious how much I spent there since I bought my bike. I wish I had never looked. :eek:

Attachment 21669

The fork seals are all installed and all done without having to buy any special tools. No "bullet" and no seal driver. You honestly do not even need them. After reading many, MANY threads of guys doing a fork service/rebuild and watching several YouTube videos, I was confident I could do it myself. And it was very easy. You just have to keep track of all your parts and keep them in order. Oh, and clean everything, which should be a given.
To get the seals off and on, you simply use electrical tape at the end of the tube. To set the seal, I used a chunk of plastic that was the same thickness as the seal itself. Placed the lock ring on top of the seal, and the plastic on top of that and lightly tapped all the way around the fork. And when it stops, the lock ring is set in the groove. Simple. I was suprised it went in that easy. I expected more of an issue, since you're supposed to use a seal driver.

I should see that white, spring topper doohickey in the mail by Saturday, and then I can get the one fork sealed up.

Also, I think I may have figured out why one fork was 10mm taller than the other one. When I unscrewed the top of the fork, the spring was not inside the white plastic doohickey. It was kind of jammed to the side. I'm really hoping that was the issue, because I didn't find anything else wrong with either of the fork internals.

The reason the plastic doohickey broke, was my fault. I made my own spring compressor and the points that go inside the holes of the plastic should've been a little smaller. Since they weren't small enough, it kind of ripped out and did the damage seen in the picture above. Oops. At least it's not a very expensive mistake.

All cleaned up with new seals, awaiting the dang parts.

Attachment 21670

One more "doohickey" to make Steve laugh.

Look, if my help's not welcome around here...

Don't ask questions you surely don't want the answer to :) at least that's what I tell myself

Forks are way easier than folk think. Seen people rebuild motors but scared to open a fork.

Some forks you need a seal driver. Even then its tough,

That was me. I assumed that once open, parts and valves would fall out and roll across the floor. After watching someone else do it, that made me more comfortable in tackling it myself.

I have a set of '98 Superhawk forks that need a rebuild. I want to tackle those to get the experience with regular forks. Then sell them here or use them for my Materium project.

JE high compression pistons are in.

The parts I ordered for the forks will be here tomorrow, so those will get finished this weekend.

Attachment 21664
Attachment 21665

Good work mate,

Be good to have your bike back on the road.

Haha nice biohaz bag

Looks like a standard "holds your pee cup" urine sample one

Haha, well sort of. My wife was in the hospital recently, so I helped myself to a couple dozen biohazard baggies that were in a cabinet in the room. They are nice too. Made of thick material and they have a slot to put a piece of paper.

The baggies kept the timing chains from flopping around when I rotated the engine on the stand and possibly chipping the new paint on the engine. Speaking of which, I am now working on the heads since the fork parts didn't arrive today. I'm lapping the valves and cleaning up the ports a little better.

Rule for biohaz bags is 3mm thick minimum so yes they will be better than regular bags. Hope everything is well!

Thanks. She is doing alright now. The sack around her heart was enlarged and literally squeezing her heart, causing some issues. From what we understand, it was caused by a virus. Apparently anyone can get it, but it's extremely rare.

Looks good man !!, biohazard bag looks familair haha

but being the most curious person here why did the engine need to come apart ? it sounds like deja vu for me haha

i did buy an 1000 gsxr engine thinking some valve seats where making noise, had the whole head done then put everything together and when i was cleaning my oil pan i found copper pieces :eek::rolleyes: so it can some apart :(

After getting my first pair of reading glasses, I realized that I can see things a lot better (like duh!). I honestly didn't know how bad my eyes were. The point of this is I put the engine together before I had my reading glasses and after getting my new glasses and looking at a brand new set of Honda pistons rings, I realized that there was a very small chance that I might have put one or possibly two of the piston rings upside down. The brand new piston rings have some scuffs or light scratches on them that I may have mistaken for the "R" or "RN". It pissed me off, but for the cost of a couple connecting rod bolts, some gaskets, and a little time, I could make sure everything was correctly installed. Turns out everything was installed correctly, but it makes me feel so much better knowing for a fact it was done right. Lesson learned. Sucks loosing your vision.

On the positive side, I am getting very good at building these engines! :)

Nice work!

Also i use plastic (Saran) wrap around the top of the forks before sliding seals on. Thinner than electrical tape so it doesn't expand the seals as much, and i've never had the plastic wrap rip on me... I just put a little fork oil on the plastic wrap and the seal slides right on.

James

Saran wrap! That would work nicely as well. I will try that on the Superhawk forks with the parts you are sending me James. Thanks for the heads up on that!

This project isn't moving as fast as I was hoping. We have fantastic weather here and I really want to ride! The Ohlins spring, braced swingarm and some other little bits aren't done from powdercoating yet. It's okay I guess, since I don't have the heads even cleaned up yet. The heads are bare and waiting for the port & polish work. I should be able to get the heads done and bolted onto the block before the weekend is over. At least, that's my goal.

Attachment 21630

Here's something I really need some help with. I have the '07 CBR1000RR front end with stock brakes and rotors. I don't think the stock Superhawk master cylinder will be right for the new calipers. I did a quick look for brake upgrades for the CBR front end, and all I get is Brembo this and Brembo that. I know Brembo makes good stuff, but that can't be the only brake upgrade. Besides, the Brembo master cylinder is ~$250 used!

The point of this, is I need to get a new master cylinder, so why buy a stock CBR master cylinder? I wish I wasn't brake master cylinder number illiterate. Would another master cylinder from another bike be better than the stock one from the CBR? I don't care if it's an axial or radial master cylinder.

Any help with the master cylinder issue is appreciated. If all else, I'll just get a stock '07 CBR master cylinder (~$40) and be done with it.

Newer yamaha and honda superbikes are known to have very good brake master and the whole brake setup. Normally there is no need to swap for aftermarket ones. I would pick stock honda brake master.