Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

So what’s involved in putting them on and what are the positives and negatives? It’s not quite a simple “bolt on” affair but its something anyone can do in no time at all.

Bad news first, the stock brake lines don’t reach the new bar’s higher position by about 2”, so you’ll need after market steel braided lines. Most people already have these, or are going to get them so this is not a big deal. I went with Goodridge because they had an option to go +1 or +2 inches on their order form. I went +2 which turned out to be totally unnecessary as my lines are now +2 inches too long :P Better long than short hehe

So assuming you have after market lines on, take all the shit off your old bars and plop on the new naked ones. You will note that the little male sticky downy thingy on the bottom of the new clip-on (where it fits into the triple clamp) is on the opposite side of where the stock one goes. This doesn’t matter as it clears the top of the triple tree mount, but just not quite enough, so you need to shave a little off the inside of it with a hand file or dremel -easy as pie. Now the clip on will sit flush on the fork tube top/triple tree.

When you begin to bolt on your throttle, kill switch and turn signals you will notice that they have nipples inside that fit into holes in the clip-on’s. Well they don’t match up anymore. I filed off the tabs on my turn signal mount and my kill switch but I didn’t on the throttle as it really needs to be there. Just mock it up, mark where the hole goes and drill it out with the same diameter drill bit as the male tab. If the hole’s too big your throttle could wiggle. If the hole’s not in the exact spot, forward or back, then you may not be able to open your throttle wide open without readjusting your hand on it and if the hole is too far left or right then you might show too much bar or bunch it up against the bar end.

Once you have all your stuff on then crank your front end over to the left and set your left clip-on as close to the gas tank as possible. The horn button will touch first. Tighten the bar up then set the right bar accordingly.

So the other bad news, which is dick all imo, is that the right bar clears the fairing and tank by a mile but the left bar slightly nicks the bottom of the fairing where the hi-beam switch is. This means that unless you either, shave off a bit of the bottom of your fairing OR, put a bushing in between where your fairing meets your mirror mount to push the fairing out a bit, whenever you crank your bars all the way to the right, your gonna flip on your high beam switch…big deal.

The good news: I’m 5’9” and with my stock bars the palms of my hands would ache horribly, eventually go numb and throb. I couldn’t ride far and even though I loved my bike, I dreaded the riding position for any distance. People say you get used to it. Well I rode all last season and I kinda did by the end of it. The day after I installed these new bars I rode from 9:30am till 8:00pm taking short stops for gas, lunch and a beer in complete comfort. I couldn’t help but notice all the other riders around me shaking out their hands during the day.

If you compare these VFR bars with Heli bars you will see that they are much more robust and WAAAY cheaper. Also I’m sure they’re higher and angled as far back to the rider position and you can possibly get, as well as angled more horizontally to the earth. They polish up great as you can see in my pics.

After doing this mod, along with my Sargent seat and Puig double bubble style windscreen, I can honestly ride in complete comfort for hours on end and concentrate on having fun and riding better.

Re: Installing VFR 750 bars
 

Last pic

Re: Installing VFR 750 bars
 

Do you know if they are the same as the VFR 800 bars? Thanks for the install help.

Re: Installing VFR 750 bars
 

No I don't but other people in this forum do. Thats one thing this thread needs is a list of VFR years that will fit. I'll ask in the main forum.

Re: Installing VFR 750 bars
 

AFAIK, all VFR bars from 1990-2001 will fit. The only real differences that I know of are styling and the method of end weight installation which is typically different than the SuperHawk. If they are from an 800, you need to find out if they are 98-01 (will fit) since 02 to present will not work because they are 43mm.

Re: Installing VFR 750 bars
 

Thanks Superbling :D

I'm pretty sure the bar end changes from '95 -> '96 to use a larger bolt as it becomes a heavier bar end so you need to verify the year your using. Don't assume you can use your Superhawk bar ends.

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Bars:
600 F2/F3 will fit, similar height to stock, weights like stock (stockers should mount dependent on year)
CB1 (400F) will fit, higher than stock (clearance issues w/tank), weights like stock
Hawk will fit, WAAAAY higher than stock (serious clearance issues), stock weights bolt up
CBR1000F will fit (similar to CB1 height), weights stock
VFRs from 90-2001 will fit.
90-93 are medium height (similar:CBR1000 & CB1), weights should fit.
94-96 are medium height with different weights (stock WILL not bolt up), solid aluminum and very pretty.
98-01 are slightly higher than others, weights like stock; not solid, but pretty.
NOTE: Throttlemeisters for stock VTR work for 600F2/3, Hawk, CBR1000, CB1, VFR800 (to 01); all these end weights should be direct bolt-ons.
Height can be a major issue allowing limited adjustments, and contact the fairing. Mounting holes for switches, master cylinders, throttle housings, etc. may need to be drilled/relocated. I've also had to grind various parts of clutch & brake MCs to allow clearance for fork adjusters. I've had F2, Hawk, VFR (2 yrs) and older Heli bars mounted on my '01 SHawk with varying success.
I now use 98 VFR bars, with a Throttlemeister, and like where they "put my hands" for commuting/corner carving. I'd consider older (96) VFR bars, if I could replace the Throttlemeister cheaply. I use them on my 88 Hawk, they're the best I've found for my "Jr Hawk".

Just my 2 cents...

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

:?

What did you pay, on average, for your bars? I assume you didn't by them new unless you got some serious bank!!!

I am still struggling to find bars at my local (within 150 miles from me) salvage yards.....man, it isn't so easy.

I'm 6'2 and I'm looking at getting a double bubble or touring windscreen and I want to raise the bars for sure to make the bike more sport touring oriented. I think I'm just to tall and rode motocross / off road bikes for too long to get into the sport riding position. :oops:

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Let Ebay be your friend. Finding matched unbent pairs will certainly be harder but if you don't mind mismatched styling singles are more common. They are a very worth while mod. If you just can't find them, then pony up for some gen-mar risers.

Because of your dirt bike background, you might also want to consider going with superbike bars. NOTE: this is the land of no return as you will need to trim the upper fairing for clearance but it will give you that position you're really looking for. Add the db screen and corbin/sargent seat and it's nirvana IMO. :) I have a write up on it in the mod's section somewhere.

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

So, my local salvage shop came back with a pair of 94 CBR1000 bars $70 each. What do you think????

I will also look for the superbike bar modification.

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

I think the most expensive set was $100 (yes, set).
I personally feel anything over $50 per side is pricey. If you're patient, you can get them cheaper on Ebay. I recently got an old set of Helibars, for an SH, for about $75. I've studied them awhile, and know what all of them look like. I can tell you what they're off just by looking. Most people don't even know what they're selling, let alone what it'll fit.
I'd go back w/ $100 cash for the CBR bars, and see what they say? Cash sometimes talks. CBR bars are kinda tall, though. About like VFR 750 bars (remember, all require minor modifications).
BTW, are you in northern Virginia? I live in Hagerstown, MD and occasionally get into DC. Want to arrange a meet? I have the higher bars, DB screen, and Sargent seat setup already; I'm only 5'11", but I prefer the upright position also. You could have a sit and see what you like?
Andy
8)

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Hey Andy,

Sure man, lets get together for a ride some time. I responded to another post for delmarva riders but nothing ever came of it. We gotta do it quick before it gets cold man!!! :)

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Which part of VA do you reside?
Thanks

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

outside of Leesburg Va. I work near Dulles airport.

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

What keeps the VFR bars from turning? The tab that is a safety against rotation on the stock bars is not used. Proper torque would be critical I would think. Anyone know proper torque figure?

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Here are some that are on Ebay....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-...spagenameZWDVW

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Since you don't have the locking tabs you can set them where ever you like. The only time they touch the tank is walking it around the garage if I let it.

As far as worrying about them wiggling around because there are no locking tabs, I wouldn't. I had a pretty heavy low side and not only did they not move but they didn't bend either.

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Torque value isn't VERY important. I just make sure they don't move by hand.
I do make sure they move when you tap them with a rubber mallet. I've saved many a clip-on when a bike fell over with this trick. If they're snug, they'll move and save the bar, although they may hit the tank ($$ replacement).

Just my 2 cents.

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Thanks for this post it helped a lot in deciding what to do for bar ends. I ended up buying a set of notched (hollow) bar ends and cutting the tab off, then drilling it out. I actually only needed to do one beacuse I picked up a throttlemiester off ebay for $1.99 last year not even knowing what it would fit. Low and behold, it fits the 94-96 "big hole" VTR bars! I may set the other bar end up in case I want to take the miester off, but that's another project for another day.
All said, about an hour of modification to the bar end, including making a wood holding tool so that I didn't scratch it up while using the sawsall to cut it down. I'll tell you what though, Cliffhanger was right, these buggers are hard. I think they'll still be around when the frame has oxidized into dust!

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Greep,
I'm glad this helped. $1.99 for a Throttlemeister that fits those bars?!?!?You bum.
I have a HawkGT, and VFR bars are the hot setup for it also. I especially like the solid bars (less vibrations). I'd like a cruise for it, but TMs are $100 a piece, and it doesn't get enough miles now that I have the SHawk.
If you're selling, let me know.

Andy
:cry:

Re: Installing VFR 750/800 bars
 

Well, if it makes you feel better I spent a little more than necessary for the bars. I got them from CNIDAWG, and he had just had them powder coated black so they matched the bike closer to a stock look. It was worth every penny!

Guys, Quick question for a Clip On newbie. How do you get the thingy out of the clip on? I got a brand new VFR800 bar of e-bay and it doesn't have anything to screw the weight into. My thought is to take out the inside of my VTR throttle clip on but I don't want to hack it all up trying to do it when I don't know how!

Any advice?

Oh, by the way, I finally grew a set and hack my fairing. I'll post some pic's tomorrow. It is just the initial cut with some finish work to come, but, no high beams when making a hard turn! :P

Also the VFR bars are only Temp. until I do Blings SUperbike Bar mod. I'm just waiting until I find the right risers and get braided lines! :P

My VFR clip on experience
 

Well, I am following in the steps of my great mentor, Superbling! This mod to my bike is a stepping-stone to the Superbike bars modification. As you will see in the pictures, I've already trimmed the fairing to accommodate the Superbike bars and risers. But I think it wasn’t so bad for the tall VFR bars either. So, now that it is done, I have no guilt. I just need to take it out for a spin and see what damage I really did! :P

VFR 800 1998 bars, one was used and one new, both off ebay. I stole the bar weights from my stock clip on for the new VFR clip on. That was easier than I thought!

Awesome
 

Okay, here is my 2 cents worth. I think the difference from stock to the 98 VFR bars in strictly a must do! Bigger difference than I expected. If you thinking about doing it......DO IT! :) I don't regret it one bit. And, the faring had no problems at all, just like Bling said in his superbike bars mod thread. Since the cut is above the mirror bolts there doesn't seem to be any ill effects. At least none that I have noticed yet.

If you really want big change, go fo the superbike bar mod. I'm still going to try it!

Off topic
 

Norrth;

What is the Nexxtech device on your top triple clamp?

My guess is that it is a clock. :)

Ya its an illuminated large digit covered clock that broke after 3 weeks :(

I see. I googled nexxtech and found their site but couldn't find that device. I though maybe it was something for an MP3 or the like.

Ok NOrrTH,
I picked up a set of '00 VFR bars from a VFR forum for $40.00!! I'm stoked. I have to get the aftermarket lines now and if I understand your original post (& 102dals) I will probably need the +2" Goodridge lines as these are a little taller than your bars. Please, someone, confirm. They also came with the bar ends but nothing to screw them into. Will the ends from my stock bars work?

TIA,
Chilly

VFR Bars question
 

Well, I am running with VFR bars (98 or 2k, cant remember right now). I am using the stock lines currently. So, all I had to do was remove the junction point from the lower triple to gain the extra line I needed. I've been riding like this for months now with no problems. So, you should be able to save the money from the braided lines if you want to. But, if you want the braided lines and are not planing og going for the full superbike bar modification then you should not need anything longer than the standard kit length. (I'm not 100% sure since I dont have it....but I'm making and educated guess based on other threads I've read.

I also used the stock weights with the VFR bar inserts. I bought my bars from two different people (e-bay :P). One was brand new...never installed therefore no inserts either. The other appeared to be off a salvage bike as the bar ed weight screw was bent but everthing else was in good shape. I yanked my insert out of the stock VTR clip on and slammed it into the new VFR bar. Installed the stock VTR bar weights and installed them on the bike. Oh yeah, I hacked my fairing before...but I knew this was only an intermediate step to the superbike bar mod. If your not going full superbike..you can most likely get by with shimming the fairing at the mirror mount to avoid any contact issues (you'll see what I'm talking about after install if you don't alrady know).

Feedback after some riding time
 

Okay, just some observations (not complaints) to pass on.

Since I have set my VFR bars up I have noticed a few funny things.

1. It really seems harder to turn/lean the bike over. I find that it feels like I am using much more force to do so. I really notice it in long stretched out / weeping turns, not really the tight twisties.

2. The headlight was going out when parking the bike. Well this was really a no brain-er once I was parking my bike and didn't have my earplugs in. I was hitting the starter button when pulling the right bar in tight for parking maneuvering. Important to note is the starter was hitting my tank bag not my tank. So moral of the story is, when your setting up your bars keep in mind not only tank clearance but the other stuff too.

3. Same situation on the left side, hitting the horn! :P Kind of not cool to do when coming home late and alarming the folks next door of your presence! :P

4. The VFR bars are made in such a way that the VTR clutch and front master cylinder prevent the levers from being adjusted lower (more downward). This may be just an issue for me but I found with the new height I wanted my levers facing down more and I cannot unless I use a dremel to hack into the bars. I don't want to do this since I think I will unload them soon anyways! =)

5. I guess this should have been as point 1 or before but... I was able position my bars (after cutting the fairing so I don't know if it would work other wise) so that they do not hit either the fairing or the tank (of course without tank bag).

Over all, I am very glad that I tried it out. Thanks to the guys who figured it all out and passed the knowledge on to us!

Feedback
 

Thanks Besucher98,
1. So you're just leaving the junction point from the lower triple hang to gain the extra length needed to keep stock lines? That would be great. Braided lines don't quite fit the budget yet :oops: , but at least I could proceed with the change over.

2. As far as turning/leaning in, most of my hard driving days are over. I'm too old for that, most of the time. I'll ease my way into that problem as needed since most of my riding is commuting or road trips. Track days and canyon racing are not in my future.

3. I have no problem modding the fairing as someday I may go with the Superbike setup as well. 'Bling just makes it sound so great, how can I resist?:-D

4. Thanks for the heads up on the tank bag. I never had one before on any of my bikes and now can't see not having one.

5. Lastly, you mention adjusting the levers downward. Do you mean tilting them? I'll probably figure this out when I make the change but taking all the questions out are why we're here right?

Thanks again. This site is great. Most everyone's willing to share their info without making you feel like an idiot.

Go with the standard length SS lines. +2 are way too long as I found out the hard way.

With regards to tilting downward your clutch lever, your right, it only goes so far without touching. A dremel is an easy fix if it bothers you. Are you a "two finger clutcher" or do you use your whole hand cause it fits me perfect and I'm pretty tall in the saddle.

Another thing for anyone else considering this mod, you do not need to trim the fairing. I didn't and yes the high beam switch hits the bottom of it but only at nearly full lock and there's plenty of flexibility in the fairing so its no prob at all imo.

Yeah, if you really like the VFR bar mod, the superbike bar is even more of a good thing. I sold that "kit" a couple of months ago in preparation for selling ol' superbling. I miss that bar kit so much that I started assembling another one to use until I sell the damn bike (just can't seem to place the ad)! I've found another source for the mounts that are cheaper than the moose racing units. They should be in another day or two and I'll post more info and pics then.

Since the VFR bars place you further back but are about the same width as stockers, you have less weight on the front with the same amount of leverage. That's probably why some feel a difference in steering. You will NOT have this issue with superbike bars as they are much wider. I had to trim them some. When I went back to the current stock setup, it felt like I was driving a truck!

FWIW

What Mounts
 

Bling, what mounts did you get?

I bought mine from e-bay. They are for CRF 50 risers. I just dropped the upper triple. Drilled and tapped a center hole and I was good to go. I will take some pic's of the mounting once the brake lines get in.

Installed 96 VFR bars
 

I just installed mine this weekend, and haven't had a chance to ride it yet (no insurance till next week). The solid aluminum bars are very pretty and look nice on the Shawk. I got a complete set with switches, master cylinders, grips, and end weights from Ebay for $27! I had to drill new holes for the throttle and kill switch to line up correctly. I used Russel SS lines in stock length, and the length was just about perfect; the left line could stand to be a tad longer, but it worked out o.k. I do hit the high beam switch on full lock (no big deal since my HB is always on anyway) and the throttle housing also hits under the fairing on full lock. Other than that, the only clearnace issue is the vista cruise hits the tank and locks on at full lock, but it did that with the stock bars too.

maybe a dumb question....
 

Hi guys

I'm new to the forum. I'm considering buying a 2002 Superhawk, but I'm concerned about the ergos being a bit too extreme for me. This thread is just what I was looking for, but, here's my dumb question - how do I get the photos that are attached to the thread to display?

Also, any advice on the hawk would be much appreciated.

Thanks

thebeav

We had a server crash earlier this year and some of the photos in the threads were disassociated. This may find itself worked out at a later date but for now they are lost. You may contact the thread's originator and ask them to repost the pictures to the thread.