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HELLPP!! How to deal with stripped scews on front forks

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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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HELLPP!! How to deal with stripped scews on front forks

So I have my front forks off to replace the seals, but I've run into a problem. Some one before me decided to strip out the allen head bolt on the bottom of the forks that drain the oil. If I put any torque on this thing the allen wrench just spins in side of it.

Is it possible that I can replace the seals and replace the oil without removing this bolt?
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 03:45 PM
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It's fairly unlikely that it's actually stripped... More likely that the internal cartridge is spinning along with it, since if stripped you would have no oil left in the forkleg... Are the forkleg still assembled? Or have you started the disassembly? If you did, did you break that bolt loose first?

Two way's of fixing the problem... One is an impact wrench, preferably a pneumatic to get the bolt loose with the leg intact... Two is to dismantle the forkleg to the point where you can clamp the internals... But at that point you risk damaging stuff... Best bet is number one, or full reassembly to then use number one...

But yeah, you can get most of the oil out without removing that bolt... You will likely need to hang it upside down and pump it several times (wear clothes you can dispose of, you will get dirty...) As for seals, well... No, not all of them, so it depends on which you need to replace...
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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Its not the threads that are stripped its the head of the bolt that has been rounded out. So my allen wrench will just spin inside of the bolt head. I tried an 1/2" impact wrench on one of them that was less rounded than the other but it didnt break the bolt. I didn't do it too much in fear that I would completely strip it out like the other.

But I'm trying to replace the first seal after the dust cap. Is it possible to replace this without taking out that scew?

How many seals are in the forks to my knowledge these are the only seals? I would get left over oil on the forks after they were compressed. Replacing these will fix my problem right?
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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Even if you drill and get an extractor to bite into that screw, I don't think you could get the cartridge to not spin. Maybe you could cut a slot in it for a big flat head.

There's a dust scraper seal on the top of the fork bottom, then under that an inch or two is the oil scraper. There's a bushing under that oil seal, but those are the only two seals that make contact with the fork leg (stanchion). If you get crazy on it you might be able to get it out, but you might fubar your stanchion in the process.

Something you should try is the old dirt biker trick, use a playing card to slip past that seal and clean out any dirt that's built up. If you don't have a deck of cards laying around you can use a business card, but you cant put as much force on them.

Hope this helps
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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By the way, when trying to get that bottom screw out, adjust the preload all the way down on the top of the fork, and try to compress the fork as much as you can. You need that spring to put as much force on the cartridge as you can to stop it from spinning.
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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The trick is to drill just a tid bit larger than the threads of the bolt. When the head is drilled thru, it will start to spin. You will then be able to separate the two pieces of the bolt with the two parts of the fork. This is exactly how we do it at the shop I work at.
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MAB
So I have my front forks off to replace the seals, but I've run into a problem. Some one before me decided to strip out the allen head bolt on the bottom of the forks that drain the oil. If I put any torque on this thing the allen wrench just spins in side of it.

Is it possible that I can replace the seals and replace the oil without removing this bolt?
Before you resort to drilling the bolt out try a trick I learned years ago.
With the lower fork leg supported in a vise by the brake caliper lugs take a flat punch and 'walk' it around the bolt head while tapping it with a hammer.
This will do two things:
1. It will forge material inward towards the hole and
2. loosen the threads of the bolt.
Once you've worked your way around the bolt head several times take the best allen wrench you have, if necessary take your allen wrench to a grinding wheel and get rid off the rounded edges at the tip, and tap it into the allen bolt. This should end up being an extremely tight fit because of the forging process. Now take a hand impact wrench, preload it and give a hard whack with a good sized hammer. Hopefully this will break the bolt loose.
This method also works well on rounded out phillips screws.

Hope the above makes sense, if not, pm me and maybe I can explain it in more detail.

Drilling out the bolt should always be a last resort. Broken off drill bits are a bear to remove, and drilling off center doesn't work well either....

Just realized you're in LA, I'm in Long Beach, if you can't get the bolt out bring me the fork and I'll give it a go.

Last edited by kai ju; Aug 9, 2010 at 11:22 PM.
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 11:26 PM
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It is a socket head bolt, drilling off center is awfully difficult
Old Aug 9, 2010 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by autoteach
It is a socket head bolt, drilling off center is awfully difficult

You're right, starting it is easy. Keeping it straight is a different story all together.
And like I mentioned before, broken off drill bits are a bear to remove.
Old Aug 10, 2010 | 12:21 AM
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Thanks everybody for the replies and tips. My dad and I went at it. we ended up drilling it so we could fit a flat head into it. It took 4 drill bits, a huge wrench on the scewdriver, and alot of patience. I got lucky with the other and I was able to get it out with an impact wrench.

Originally Posted by kai ju
Before you resort to drilling the bolt out try a trick I learned years ago.
With the lower fork leg supported in a vise by the brake caliper lugs take a flat punch and 'walk' it around the bolt head while tapping it with a hammer.
This will do two things:
1. It will forge material inward towards the hole and
2. loosen the threads of the bolt.
Once you've worked your way around the bolt head several times take the best allen wrench you have, if necessary take your allen wrench to a grinding wheel and get rid off the rounded edges at the tip, and tap it into the allen bolt. This should end up being an extremely tight fit because of the forging process. Now take a hand impact wrench, preload it and give a hard whack with a good sized hammer. Hopefully this will break the bolt loose.
This method also works well on rounded out phillips screws.

Hope the above makes sense, if not, pm me and maybe I can explain it in more detail.

Drilling out the bolt should always be a last resort. Broken off drill bits are a bear to remove, and drilling off center doesn't work well either....

Just realized you're in LA, I'm in Long Beach, if you can't get the bolt out bring me the fork and I'll give it a go.
Dam I wish i read this before I started to hack away at the bolt. I completely get what you're saying. I may need to use this technique on every other bolt on this bike, Whoever worked on this bike before thought it would be fun to nearly round out every allen head bolt and torque them to about a million foot pounds of torque.

Good to know I got some one close by willing to help.Just to let you know, I saw your bike on ebay when I was looking to buy a motorcycle. Awesome bike, would have bought it if I had the money.
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