MC Leather

So I talked to my Honda mechanic. He said to replace the CCT with a APE all I had to do was find TDC comp, calmly remove the stock CCt and replace with the APE. No need to pull covers or any of that mess. Is it true, the KB info makes it sound much harder.

Thanks.

cliby

there are 2 TDC per 4 stroke cycles. One, the cam is under tension, one is not (compression tdc when both valves are closed), vs exhaust when one or both are partially opened). One is safe, one is not. You can search and read all the why's for yourself or get a 4 stroke book to understand it more.

.......Now, if you need a new top end and your mechanic wants to do it the 'easy way', you could let him.

MC Leather

When I wrote "TDC comp" I meant Top Dead Center compression. I know the difference, I know he knows the difference. Thanks. And no, I don't want him to buy me any new parts.

SlowHAWK

Yes it can be done... most people pull the covers to insure they get it right as the results can be painful if you make a mistake.

I looked at it as a good time to check the valve clearances, so I did a few things at once making it worth the effort to remove the covers. At a minimum the rear cover is really easy to remove... try that one first, then if you good to go, do the front.

J.

cliby

and I didn't want to imply any shorting of knowledge. its just been hashed over so many times. Short of measuring pressure I just am not sure how to verfiy which TDC its at - let us know what you had in mind to shortcut that.

RCVTR

If you don't want to remove the valve covers, I agree that it is not necessary.

Remove the plugs from the left side cover. Put a socket on the bolt head to rotate the crank. When coming up on the compression stroke you can hear the gas bypassing the rings, making a hissing sound. TDC comp on the rear is 270 degress later. The alternator rotor has timing marks on it. It doesn't have to be exact because the cams are not near acutation.

If you get it wrong it goes sprong and the valves go shut. It won't damage anything unless you reinstall the chain tesnioner and try to turn the crank. At that point, you have a lot more work, because you have to take the chain off the cam gears and time the whole thing.

It's only a shortcut, if you do it right, and you've already inspected the valve clearances recently...

FL02SupaHawk996

+1 check my valves while I was in there too
RC

MC Leather

Rear was easy, getting to the front valve cover was a PITA due to the 3rd rad mounted on the front valve cover, but it's off. All valves were in spec, second CCT is being installed as I type. Is it hard to get in to adjust the front CCT with the tank and the airbox on?

ThisDudeHere

There is an easy way to figure out which TDC stroke you're on, w/o pulling valve covers.
I start with pulling the plugs, I set crank to FT or RT depending which cylinder you'd like to work on. I have a compression tester kit w/ different fittings...I attach a 3/8" hose to the fitting and screw it into the front or rear plug hole(depending which you set) and blow compressed air into the cylinder. If the airbox top cover is off, I fully open the throttle and while blowing air into the cylinder, if you are at TDC EX. then you'll get air blowing past the carb. slides or out the exhaust pipes b/c the valves are open, otherwise at TDCC you'll quickly fill the chamber w/ air and since valves are closed the air will just rush back out the hose/plug hole you're blowing into.
This has worked for me on numerous occasions when changing out the tensioners or when I had to do an adjustment.
I think this should work w/o a fitting at the end of the hose, but would require a second person, one to hold the hose in the spark plug hole while blowing air in and the other to feel for the air at either the airbox or the pipes. Feeling for the air is not that necessary as you can hear if the air is rushing past the open valves or filling chamber and pushing back out at you.
Anyways, I hope this is somewhat understandable, and if anyone has any questions or additional comments, feel free

lazn

Well the rear valve cover comes off very easily, 4 bolts and you are already in that far to get to the front CCT.

So, I removed that one to verify TDC comp, then went the additional 400 whatever degrees (one full rotation of the engine till you get to the FT mark again) and then you know the front is at TDC comp, and don't need to remove that cover.

Simple, and only remove the easy cover.

opsmgr

Even simpler is to remove the front spark plug, and leave the rear one in. When you feel compression, (turning engine anticlockwise) you know you're on the rear compression stroke, then it's just a matter of waiting for the RT mark to come up shortly afterwards, then do your degrees rotation count (450) to get the front compression stroke.

If you're not confident, then by all means remove the cam covers, but this isn't necessary if you're careful, and slow about the crank rotation.

Cheers,

Paul.