I managed to let this one slide since it came out, but, as Wolvy said, 'Everyone's got an opinion'

High RPM's and heat are 2 of the worst elements that distroy oil. If buying the 3$ a liter(quart) oil is smart, well think again. This is a sports bike, that cruises an average 4500rpm's and can spin to 9500 no problem. If you think for one moment that the thin layers of metal that sit between the rod and crank that act as the bearings can resist to heat producted by high revolutions with cheap oils, well, chances are no. Short term, yes they will. But tens of thousands of miles down the road, no.

I see it everyday in my business with cheap skates that try and squeeze a few extra dollars out of their budget on cheap oils. They all come back to see me with nice engine rebuilds. If you can't afford the money to buy the right oil to put in these racing machines, then you can't afford to own a bike. I don't mean to be a prick about this, but this is not your run of the mill car that cruises at 1500rpms, and never see's 3500rpms, but just once in a while.

My 0,02$, you may do as you please. ;)

NOTE TO SELF: Don't buy any of these bikes !

Whoa there! You've really gone and done it this time! :rolleyes:
5W30????

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...763325&alt=web

I heard this is a great way to reduce friction and binding. Also only have to use a third compared to other manufactures. Rumor is it even smells pleasant.

Side note I would not recommend this or using 5w30 in any performance engine. Personal preference of me and my bike.

It lubricates the clutch really well and I get better gas mileage because it's a thinner oil.
I was told to add a Pint of Coolant to help keep the transmission gears cool. I'll let everyone know how that goes

Please post picture of the guy who told you, probably I´ve never seen such an expert.

I tried Rotella once - shifting immediately got clunky and stiff. Use Honda HP4 semi-synthetic 10w-40 - shifts nice and smooth for about the first 1500 miles, then gets a little clunky until I change it at 2000 miles. It does cost $23 for a gallon, but oh well.


Had a friend who tracks an R6 experience the same when he tried Rotella. He then believed the hype about Mobil 1 15w-50 not having friction modifiers because the little circle doesn't say energy conserving - boom - slipping clutch on the track! Changed his oil to Mobil 1 with the picture of the motorcycle on the bottle - no more slipping clutch.


My advice - use 10w-40 oil with a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle, and you will be a-ok. Synthetic will last a little longer, semi-syn not as long, 100% dino not as long as that.


Change it shortly after you feel the clunky shifting arrive.