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-   -   VFR bar mod and adjusting the bar radius "stops" (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/general-discussion-30/vfr-bar-mod-adjusting-bar-radius-stops-17753/)

andy9743 Mar 4, 2009 06:51 AM

VFR bar mod and adjusting the bar radius "stops"
 
another possibly "dumb" question, but i'm throwing it out there anyhow...did the VFR bar mod, slightly trimmed my upper fairing & everything turned out excellent (much better position easier on my wrists etc...) with the stock bars there are some sort of stops to keep the stock clip-ons from bashing the tank. the VFR bars are at a different angle so the stock "stops" do not work. it's not a huge deal i just have to be careful on full lock turn arounds etc not to bump the horn or starter...is there a fairly easy way to add some sort of stop? any direction as to how to do this?


thanks again guys!


andy

SlowHAWK Mar 4, 2009 07:21 AM

Andy...

There are a few options....

First.... when I had the bars, I turned the steering to full lock, then adjusted the respective bar back as far as I could leaving like 1/16" before the horn/starter hit the tank. This worked great, although you will eventually catch your thumb every now and then... i speak from experience!!!

Second... a real cheap quick alternative shoudl you liek the bars further back would be to take some thin aluminum/sheet metal and epoxy it to the stops on the frame... this won't be permanent but will reduce the steering lock to lock some, and therefore aviod the button hitting the tank. You'll probably want to experiment with a few thicknesses before epoxying something in place. A much more secure method would be to tap the frame or triple at the stops, and place a bolt/screw there... but obviously this will leave a mark should you want to remove it in the future.

J.

andy9743 Mar 4, 2009 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by SlowHAWK (Post 203665)
Andy...

There are a few options....

First.... when I had the bars, I turned the steering to full lock, then adjusted the respective bar back as far as I could leaving like 1/16" before the horn/starter hit the tank. This worked great, although you will eventually catch your thumb every now and then... i speak from experience!!!

Second... a real cheap quick alternative shoudl you liek the bars further back would be to take some thin aluminum/sheet metal and epoxy it to the stops on the frame... this won't be permanent but will reduce the steering lock to lock some, and therefore aviod the button hitting the tank. You'll probably want to experiment with a few thicknesses before epoxying something in place. A much more secure method would be to tap the frame or triple at the stops, and place a bolt/screw there... but obviously this will leave a mark should you want to remove it in the future.

J.


perfect...i'll look into adjusting the bars, and adding stops. thanks for the response i'll report back.

andy

Hawkrider Mar 4, 2009 08:39 AM

Stick on lead weights for balancing wheels. Cut it to size and stick it on. It's less permanent than epoxy and easier to cut.

SlowHAWK Mar 4, 2009 08:47 AM


Originally Posted by Hawkrider (Post 203672)
Stick on lead weights for balancing wheels. Cut it to size and stick it on. It's less permanent than epoxy and easier to cut.

Great suggestion... funny how I didn't think of this as last night I was balancing one of my front wheels!!!

J.


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