Tip for tripping signals at intersections.
Tip for tripping signals at intersections.
I have a few signals on my way to work that never ever trip if its just me on the bike.
So I do the obligatory waiting/yielding/watching for cops, then run the light.
But lately I tried braking late and then grabbing front brake harder coming to a stop, particularly when I'm right over the circle cut into the road.
Getting the bike that much closer to the inductance loop underground, or maybe its the extra weight, is just enough to trip the light that otherwise wouldn't.
I wouldn't recommend it though if there's pedestrians in the crosswalk.
So I do the obligatory waiting/yielding/watching for cops, then run the light.
But lately I tried braking late and then grabbing front brake harder coming to a stop, particularly when I'm right over the circle cut into the road.
Getting the bike that much closer to the inductance loop underground, or maybe its the extra weight, is just enough to trip the light that otherwise wouldn't.
I wouldn't recommend it though if there's pedestrians in the crosswalk.
Maybe one of those strong magnet deals? Haven't tried them myself so I don't know if they work or not. I think someone said putting it in neutral and putting the stand down on the sensor works....probably less trouble just to run it after a good look around.
Had one of these on my last bike. I seem to recall it making a differance, but it could have been all in my head!
http://www.greenlightstuff.com/trigger.html
http://www.greenlightstuff.com/trigger.html
Just stop with your wheel over the groove for the induction loop, then your wheel is only about 4 inches from the wire in the pavement.. Only once has this not worked for me here in Phoenix and I hear complaints from other riders all the time.
http://www.wikihow.com/Trigger-Green-Traffic-Lights
http://www.wikihow.com/Trigger-Green-Traffic-Lights
I've heard stopping and restarting your engine can work.
Try doing a good burnout, if that doesn't trip it you will at least have a smoke screen so the po-pos can't see you running the light.
Try doing a good burnout, if that doesn't trip it you will at least have a smoke screen so the po-pos can't see you running the light.
The article says to park your bike at an angle. That could be doable if you're turning left.
I have one of those signals nearby, and it seems to trip faster at night when I have my brights on.
I don't know if it's an optical sensor or some type of radar, but they don't ever trip the radar detector.
I have one of those signals nearby, and it seems to trip faster at night when I have my brights on.
I don't know if it's an optical sensor or some type of radar, but they don't ever trip the radar detector.
One CHP who writes a column for Friction Zone, a monthly motorcycle publication, said that if your bike doesn't trip the signal the signal is defective...therefore the intersection should be treated like a stop sign situation...Stop...proceed when safe,etc. I like the smokey burn out idea too.
One CHP who writes a column for Friction Zone, a monthly motorcycle publication, said that if your bike doesn't trip the signal the signal is defective...therefore the intersection should be treated like a stop sign situation...Stop...proceed when safe,etc. I like the smokey burn out idea too.

sorry, I had to
Here in Minnesota there is a law that says that if the sensor doesn't know your there you can legally run the light if traffic is clear and you have waited a reasonable amount of time. Do some research. I'm pretty sure this is true in other places.
One CHP who writes a column for Friction Zone, a monthly motorcycle publication, said that if your bike doesn't trip the signal the signal is defective...therefore the intersection should be treated like a stop sign situation...Stop...proceed when safe,etc. I like the smokey burn out idea too.
Obviously there has to be a law allowing you to run it, otherwise you're in an impossible situation. I think the laws vary by how much time you have to wait, or how many cycles of lights. Obviously the light has no reason to cycle at all if it does not see you.
California:
Intersections C.V.C. 21800
(d) (1) The driver of any vehicle approaching an intersection which has official traffic control signals that are inoperative shall stop at the intersection, and may proceed with caution when it is safe to do so. This subparagraph shall apply to traffic control signals that become inoperative because of battery failure.
And other states:
http://www.bikernation.net/stoplightbill.htm
Intersections C.V.C. 21800
(d) (1) The driver of any vehicle approaching an intersection which has official traffic control signals that are inoperative shall stop at the intersection, and may proceed with caution when it is safe to do so. This subparagraph shall apply to traffic control signals that become inoperative because of battery failure.
And other states:
http://www.bikernation.net/stoplightbill.htm
Those loops are called "Sarasota loops" (or something like that). They have a wire looped in the hardtop, just like an electromagnet. They operate by generating a very slight magnetic field, and when something changes that field, it senses it, and activates the timer for the signal.
The problem is most bikes do not contain enough steel, low enough to the loop to trip it. That's why they tell you to put the kickstand down. Sometimes that is enough to trip it.
The problem is most bikes do not contain enough steel, low enough to the loop to trip it. That's why they tell you to put the kickstand down. Sometimes that is enough to trip it.
Yup. Lit stop sign.
If it's a daily commute deal, I would call your city office that way if you get a ticket, it's on file that you tried.
Recently, I noticed that the lights started working with my bike...I think with the gas price hike and everyone started buying bikes that they recalibrated the sensors.
If it's a daily commute deal, I would call your city office that way if you get a ticket, it's on file that you tried.
Recently, I noticed that the lights started working with my bike...I think with the gas price hike and everyone started buying bikes that they recalibrated the sensors.
Push the starter button. The magnetic field generated by the starter motor is often enough to trip the mag sensor loop. It works best if you are still coasting to a stop when you hit it. You also want the bike to land over the part of the box that is parallel to your bike (the left or right side of the box), not inside the box or over the wires that are perpendicular to you.
No wories about engaging the starter motor even while the engine is running. Unlike a car, the bikes starter doesn't engage a geared flywheel, so no grinding. There is no need to turn the bike off then restart just to get the starters electromagnetic effects.
Also, the kickstand thing, its not so much putting the kickstand down like you're parking, rather its dragging the kickstand along over the loop wire as you glide to a stop. Again, over the right or left end of the box.
No wories about engaging the starter motor even while the engine is running. Unlike a car, the bikes starter doesn't engage a geared flywheel, so no grinding. There is no need to turn the bike off then restart just to get the starters electromagnetic effects.
Also, the kickstand thing, its not so much putting the kickstand down like you're parking, rather its dragging the kickstand along over the loop wire as you glide to a stop. Again, over the right or left end of the box.
If you know anyone in the tech field, ask them to get you a magnet from a computer hard drive. They are small, but powerful. Silicone it or zip tie it to the bottom fairing of your bike. This seems to work pretty well. I had one on my Warrior and it worked well.




