test drove a daytona 675
#1
test drove a daytona 675
So I test drove a 2007 daytona 675 I saw on craigslist. I heard all the amazing reviews #1 600 shootout of the year for several years and had to see if this could be my new ride. I was shocked by how rigid the stock steering damper affected steering. It took some getting use to. And I think my SH has spoiled my hunger for low end tq. This is the torquiest off the 600 class and all I could think when riding it is what tq? lol. The top end did make me smile though. I may need to test a gsxr 750 or just get a cbr1000r for more bottom end bc lets face it, im an *** man.
http://image.sportrider.com/f/895916...rack_right.jpg
http://image.sportrider.com/f/895916...rack_right.jpg
#2
So I test drove a 2007 daytona 675 I saw on craigslist. I heard all the amazing reviews #1 600 shootout of the year for several years and had to see if this could be my new ride. I was shocked by how rigid the stock steering damper affected steering. It took some getting use to. And I think my SH has spoiled my hunger for low end tq. This is the torquiest off the 600 class and all I could think when riding it is what tq? lol. The top end did make me smile though. I may need to test a gsxr 750 or just get a cbr1000r for more bottom end bc lets face it, im an *** man.
http://image.sportrider.com/f/895916...rack_right.jpg
http://image.sportrider.com/f/895916...rack_right.jpg
Let me tell you though, if you get on a gsxr 750 you will still be missing your superhawks torque. I rode my buddies 07 gsxr 750 and it doesn't make torque like our bikes do. At higher rpm's they scream though.
My bike would pull on his gsxr 750 in 2nd gear at a 45 roll till 90 ish.
#4
Well not sure if id replace it totally atm. Really just looking for a 2nd bike. I guess what makes me look is fuel injection and modern suspension. But Im actually very happy with my SH. Now that I've rode a newer model Im glad to see i still choose the hawk. + mine just turned over 10k so i won't be thinking about selling for at least another 10.
Wow that's suprising. I think Im starting to figure out why this bike is called one of the best street bikes ever made. Who normally goes above 90 on the street anyway?
I always wanted to ride a daytona 675.
Let me tell you though, if you get on a gsxr 750 you will still be missing your superhawks torque. I rode my buddies 07 gsxr 750 and it doesn't make torque like our bikes do. At higher rpm's they scream though.
My bike would pull on his gsxr 750 in 2nd gear at a 45 roll till 90 ish.
Let me tell you though, if you get on a gsxr 750 you will still be missing your superhawks torque. I rode my buddies 07 gsxr 750 and it doesn't make torque like our bikes do. At higher rpm's they scream though.
My bike would pull on his gsxr 750 in 2nd gear at a 45 roll till 90 ish.
#5
Well not sure if id replace it totally atm. Really just looking for a 2nd bike. I guess what makes me look is fuel injection and modern suspension. But Im actually very happy with my SH. Now that I've rode a newer model Im glad to see i still choose the hawk. + mine just turned over 10k so i won't be thinking about selling for at least another 10.
Wow that's suprising. I think Im starting to figure out why this bike is called one of the best street bikes ever made. Who normally goes above 90 on the street anyway?
Wow that's suprising. I think Im starting to figure out why this bike is called one of the best street bikes ever made. Who normally goes above 90 on the street anyway?
#6
I've ridden my son's 675 and I was of course impressed with the handling, braking and for a "little" bike it was very quick. Being a big guy I was cramped on the thing. It has a shorter wheel base and I just felt squeezed on it. Nice bike and my son loves it as much as I love my bike.
#7
#8
I don't like the RC that much. My buddy bought a 05 RC51 at the same time as I bought my super hawk. My bike is still quicker and feels like it has more torque. Although his bike still likes to climb at higher speeds where as my bike will top out quicker. In my opinion the RC51 is very uncomfortable. Only buy that bike if you are going to track it a lot.
#10
I don't like the RC that much. My buddy bought a 05 RC51 at the same time as I bought my super hawk. My bike is still quicker and feels like it has more torque. Although his bike still likes to climb at higher speeds where as my bike will top out quicker. In my opinion the RC51 is very uncomfortable. Only buy that bike if you are going to track it a lot.
But in the hands of the right rider, the VTR is left behind very easily... And strip off a few unneccesary items, and it becomes a very fun toy for tracks... I like it...
The right tool for the right situation...
#12
#14
See, this is what unites us as superhawk brothers. With all our experience, all the bikes we own, we choose this bike.
I was just thinking this after riding in a downpour last night from Manhattan to Queens.
Even my 2nd street bike is a VTR. It has all the shiny bits but I dont want a pannigale. This is for me a better bike.
Most of us know the baflement of the punk on the spankin new 600rr when you crack the thottle on ours and suck the paint right off them on torque.
I have had real angry guys ask me what I did for mods since I walked away from their just broken in 600.
You gotta tell them thier bike is faster on paper, but we are not riding on paper. What makes a good racebike doesnt mean its a good street bike.
Guess this is what is meant by a "cult following. Now where is that koolaid?
I was just thinking this after riding in a downpour last night from Manhattan to Queens.
Even my 2nd street bike is a VTR. It has all the shiny bits but I dont want a pannigale. This is for me a better bike.
Most of us know the baflement of the punk on the spankin new 600rr when you crack the thottle on ours and suck the paint right off them on torque.
I have had real angry guys ask me what I did for mods since I walked away from their just broken in 600.
You gotta tell them thier bike is faster on paper, but we are not riding on paper. What makes a good racebike doesnt mean its a good street bike.
Guess this is what is meant by a "cult following. Now where is that koolaid?
#15
Both in stock form, ridden by an average rider on the street the VTR beats the RC hands down... It's a purpose made track bike, not a roadbike really...
But in the hands of the right rider, the VTR is left behind very easily... And strip off a few unneccesary items, and it becomes a very fun toy for tracks... I like it...
The right tool for the right situation...
But in the hands of the right rider, the VTR is left behind very easily... And strip off a few unneccesary items, and it becomes a very fun toy for tracks... I like it...
The right tool for the right situation...
I actually rode the 675 with the idea of using it for a track bike when the time came, but now i see theres no possible way id be faster on a track with a 675.
Now the bummer about the whole situation is that theres a 50% chance of rain on sat and 40% on sunday. If they dont cancel ill either gain a whole lota confidence in the rain or lose any i had.
See, this is what unites us as superhawk brothers. With all our experience, all the bikes we own, we choose this bike.
I was just thinking this after riding in a downpour last night from Manhattan to Queens.
Even my 2nd street bike is a VTR. It has all the shiny bits but I dont want a pannigale. This is for me a better bike.
Most of us know the baflement of the punk on the spankin new 600rr when you crack the thottle on ours and suck the paint right off them on torque.
I have had real angry guys ask me what I did for mods since I walked away from their just broken in 600.
You gotta tell them thier bike is faster on paper, but we are not riding on paper. What makes a good racebike doesnt mean its a good street bike.
Guess this is what is meant by a "cult following. Now where is that koolaid?
I was just thinking this after riding in a downpour last night from Manhattan to Queens.
Even my 2nd street bike is a VTR. It has all the shiny bits but I dont want a pannigale. This is for me a better bike.
Most of us know the baflement of the punk on the spankin new 600rr when you crack the thottle on ours and suck the paint right off them on torque.
I have had real angry guys ask me what I did for mods since I walked away from their just broken in 600.
You gotta tell them thier bike is faster on paper, but we are not riding on paper. What makes a good racebike doesnt mean its a good street bike.
Guess this is what is meant by a "cult following. Now where is that koolaid?
#16
If you are thinking that tires make bikes go faster, or torque wins on a racetrack, you have been hanging out with too many 600 squids.
A skilled rider on a 50hp bike & old tires could smoke even a fast street squid on a 175hp bike on a tight track. (or even semi-tight)
Having Michael Jordans shoes is only the first step in the path on the way to dunk.
A skilled rider on a 50hp bike & old tires could smoke even a fast street squid on a 175hp bike on a tight track. (or even semi-tight)
Having Michael Jordans shoes is only the first step in the path on the way to dunk.
#17
Glad it didnt rain and found that skill is really what its about. Once i got used to the course I could have passed 2008+ litter bikes in the turns but I couldnt pass in the turns being in beginner class and lets face it, im not passing a r1 on a straight with a hawk lol. Smoked a 2007 r6 right out of the exit of a turn. Passed a 2002 Aprilla rsv 1000r mille
I found that its all rider skill. I tried keeping up with a ducati hypermotard. He was just above my riding skill. I was suprised that his bike had less hp than mine, but more lower tq.
I found the end of my tires limits unfortunately. I was approaching the final turn and passed a rider on a short straight to keep up with my motard friend. As i passed the slower rider i needed to apply heavy breaks to make the 116* turn, well probably due to being 1pm and the track getting hotter and me running faster laps I think my front tire was getting a little slick. I applied heavy front breaks and felt like the front tire locked. I let off the brakes a little and next think I know im slidding on the track. I didnt let off the brakes enough and the tire washed out. I was running 32 32 hot. And i never had locked up the front tire tire before with my new tire and suspension setup, and believe me ive tried... so i guess i wasnt expecting it.
All i got from the whole thing was a rasberry on my right arm, but ill be needing a new clutch case, frame slidders, gas tank, and plastics. Time to start shopping the classifieds and ebay.
learned a few important lessons to avoid crashing.
#1 dont ride more than 80%
#2 Dont allow yourself to be the dog chasing the rabbit because this usually will break rule #1
I found that its all rider skill. I tried keeping up with a ducati hypermotard. He was just above my riding skill. I was suprised that his bike had less hp than mine, but more lower tq.
I found the end of my tires limits unfortunately. I was approaching the final turn and passed a rider on a short straight to keep up with my motard friend. As i passed the slower rider i needed to apply heavy breaks to make the 116* turn, well probably due to being 1pm and the track getting hotter and me running faster laps I think my front tire was getting a little slick. I applied heavy front breaks and felt like the front tire locked. I let off the brakes a little and next think I know im slidding on the track. I didnt let off the brakes enough and the tire washed out. I was running 32 32 hot. And i never had locked up the front tire tire before with my new tire and suspension setup, and believe me ive tried... so i guess i wasnt expecting it.
All i got from the whole thing was a rasberry on my right arm, but ill be needing a new clutch case, frame slidders, gas tank, and plastics. Time to start shopping the classifieds and ebay.
learned a few important lessons to avoid crashing.
#1 dont ride more than 80%
#2 Dont allow yourself to be the dog chasing the rabbit because this usually will break rule #1
#20
Here is a simpler (truer) way to view it. You went into the turn and ran out of talent.
Not a slick tire or anything else. Riding as in life, the sooner you own your boffs the better off you'll be. (assuming you want to correct them to avoid injury or death)
I have watched newbies do similar stunts going 25 seconds per lap slower than racers on the exact same equipment. (on a 1:20 lap pace) who never even flinched.
And not sure of the terms but qualify for novice? Is there a level below novice that you were qualifying out of? (like super novice?)
Not a slick tire or anything else. Riding as in life, the sooner you own your boffs the better off you'll be. (assuming you want to correct them to avoid injury or death)
I have watched newbies do similar stunts going 25 seconds per lap slower than racers on the exact same equipment. (on a 1:20 lap pace) who never even flinched.
And not sure of the terms but qualify for novice? Is there a level below novice that you were qualifying out of? (like super novice?)
#21
For track theres 3 classes
Beginner -most riding rules and control riders
Intermediate- or what i called novice less control riders and restrictions
Advanced- least riding regulated, but you pretty much have to have your bike race ready, safety wired, no anti freeze ect.
Beginner -most riding rules and control riders
Intermediate- or what i called novice less control riders and restrictions
Advanced- least riding regulated, but you pretty much have to have your bike race ready, safety wired, no anti freeze ect.
#22
If you find yourself back on track, remember the race is only against yourself. (you lost that one).
You are there to learn bike control. You start with a lap on the correct line (find an instructor who races). Then STAY on that line. Slowly brake later and note the markers for when you brake.
Hit the apex then gas earlier each time.
You urge will be to rush into a turn then over cook it and then outbrake yourself. Resist that urge. Go slightly faster each lap, finding a rythm then slowly upping it.
A sculptor removes material little by little to reveal the masterpiece. Taking away the non essential. That is how a perfect lap is made.
Realize this. Even those guys in the "fast" group dont know what the heck they are doing and are nowhere near the proper lines. Dont watch any of those guys unless they are accompished racers.
Track days are like taebo to racings UFC if there were no gloves.
When I instruct I am amazed how you can lead a group around on the perfect line, let them go, and watch pandemonium ensue. I wonder what track they are even looking at.
The guys who get fast and succeed at racing (or learning proper skills) are usually the slower of the group, but focused and on the right line. But rarely crash themselves out of contention.
You only get so many of those crashes til the game is over.
You are there to learn bike control. You start with a lap on the correct line (find an instructor who races). Then STAY on that line. Slowly brake later and note the markers for when you brake.
Hit the apex then gas earlier each time.
You urge will be to rush into a turn then over cook it and then outbrake yourself. Resist that urge. Go slightly faster each lap, finding a rythm then slowly upping it.
A sculptor removes material little by little to reveal the masterpiece. Taking away the non essential. That is how a perfect lap is made.
Realize this. Even those guys in the "fast" group dont know what the heck they are doing and are nowhere near the proper lines. Dont watch any of those guys unless they are accompished racers.
Track days are like taebo to racings UFC if there were no gloves.
When I instruct I am amazed how you can lead a group around on the perfect line, let them go, and watch pandemonium ensue. I wonder what track they are even looking at.
The guys who get fast and succeed at racing (or learning proper skills) are usually the slower of the group, but focused and on the right line. But rarely crash themselves out of contention.
You only get so many of those crashes til the game is over.
#23
Thanks for the great advice there. Ill have a re match jul. 27th at the same spot. Ill see if i can find a cr that is or did race. Shouldnt be to tough.
I noticed i was having difficulty IDing the apex on some of the longer turns. I was fairly consistent within 10-15ft. But think it could be much better. How do you find your points ina turn? I think i also need to keep my eyes more focused on the exit of the turn without target fixating on turn markers.
Whats your tecnique in long sweepers in staying consistent
I noticed i was having difficulty IDing the apex on some of the longer turns. I was fairly consistent within 10-15ft. But think it could be much better. How do you find your points ina turn? I think i also need to keep my eyes more focused on the exit of the turn without target fixating on turn markers.
Whats your tecnique in long sweepers in staying consistent
#24
Like I said, learning the lines is #1. Also look WAY up the turn. Once you know the line, its just a matter of memorizing it. Your impulse will be to look at the track right in front of you but dont.
You have to see the track as the limiting factor on you riding, like its containing you but look way up the turn to the inside. Get your wieght off the seat and your head where the mirror would be (they are not on the bike right?)
Dont ride curb to curb, leave 6-8 ft of track, this will give you room to increase speed safely. Dont wait for the track to come to you, you have to attack the track (once you have it memorized).
You should be off the seat, wieght on the inside peg way before the turn, and all the way through it.
What tires are you using, and are you using tire warmers? You should track down the correct pressures from the manufacturers race rep for those tires.
You have to see the track as the limiting factor on you riding, like its containing you but look way up the turn to the inside. Get your wieght off the seat and your head where the mirror would be (they are not on the bike right?)
Dont ride curb to curb, leave 6-8 ft of track, this will give you room to increase speed safely. Dont wait for the track to come to you, you have to attack the track (once you have it memorized).
You should be off the seat, wieght on the inside peg way before the turn, and all the way through it.
What tires are you using, and are you using tire warmers? You should track down the correct pressures from the manufacturers race rep for those tires.
#25
Looking ahead is something im going to need to work on. Ill also have to make a mental note to leave more room from the curb. Thanks for the great advice. I think im doing ok for riding postition. Well in advance of a turn Ill get one cheek off and get my head about 3-4" above the bar ends. I try and keep my weight centered, about a fist between my jewels and the tank. No I dont track with my mirrors on, its not allowed anyways.
As far as tires go Im running a bridgestone s20 on the front and the 016 on the rear. The 016 has more sidewall race compound than the rear s20, but Looking back i wish i would have just gone with a s20 rear. I havent heard anything but positive reviews from these tires. And will probably get them again for how versatile they are, but am tempted to try perelli's everyone at the track seemed to have some tire from them. But i know these are really good in the wet and cold as well so i guess ill have to do some research.
As far as race pressures my best find was an extremely detailed review of theses tires by the suspension guru David Moss Bridgestone S20 tire review | Feel The Track
He recomended starting at 32front 30 rear and noted that these tires are more sensitive to tire pressure changes than other tires. Dave also recommended to run higher pressures in hotter climates to avoid getting the tires too hot so they dont get greasy.
A negligent fault of mine was that I only checked the tires the 1st time off the track and made adjustments. I will definately check them more often and run +1 or 2 psi once the temps get into the high 80's
Do my tires look ok? Its hard to see from the pics but the tires look scaloped more on the rear and in the center, but the front was scaloped in the center as well. The CR's noted that this track was more of a tire shredder than others and that if I road 'road atlanta' it would actually clean up my tires.
front
front_zpsb499922e.jpg Photo by mrman4568 | Photobucket
rear
rear_zps05dc511c.jpg Photo by mrman4568 | Photobucket
As far as tires go Im running a bridgestone s20 on the front and the 016 on the rear. The 016 has more sidewall race compound than the rear s20, but Looking back i wish i would have just gone with a s20 rear. I havent heard anything but positive reviews from these tires. And will probably get them again for how versatile they are, but am tempted to try perelli's everyone at the track seemed to have some tire from them. But i know these are really good in the wet and cold as well so i guess ill have to do some research.
As far as race pressures my best find was an extremely detailed review of theses tires by the suspension guru David Moss Bridgestone S20 tire review | Feel The Track
He recomended starting at 32front 30 rear and noted that these tires are more sensitive to tire pressure changes than other tires. Dave also recommended to run higher pressures in hotter climates to avoid getting the tires too hot so they dont get greasy.
A negligent fault of mine was that I only checked the tires the 1st time off the track and made adjustments. I will definately check them more often and run +1 or 2 psi once the temps get into the high 80's
Do my tires look ok? Its hard to see from the pics but the tires look scaloped more on the rear and in the center, but the front was scaloped in the center as well. The CR's noted that this track was more of a tire shredder than others and that if I road 'road atlanta' it would actually clean up my tires.
front
front_zpsb499922e.jpg Photo by mrman4568 | Photobucket
rear
rear_zps05dc511c.jpg Photo by mrman4568 | Photobucket
Last edited by LuvmyVTR; 06-11-2013 at 03:12 PM.
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