Suspension Question
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 19
From: Monticello, MN
Suspension Question
Hello all!....New(ish) owner, with a couple thousand under my belt. Very happy for the most part, will take the winter to pull apart (with the GREAT information found in the search engine within this site) and 'update' motor.
Now, first...stupid question: Simply not familiar with set-up.
Front...Typical set up?....Now I have 2 rings showing (was 5 when I bought it)...What's with the dampening screw? It is out like 4 threads from flush. Is that correct, or do you set from 'all the way in', and back off from there?
Same question for the rear...What is 'typical' ramp position, and does dampening screw start from all in, or just the quarter screw S-H positions?
Reason of interest...Cornering isn't as 'weightless' as promoted. I also have 190 rear, so that could be factor?
Now, first...stupid question: Simply not familiar with set-up.
Front...Typical set up?....Now I have 2 rings showing (was 5 when I bought it)...What's with the dampening screw? It is out like 4 threads from flush. Is that correct, or do you set from 'all the way in', and back off from there?
Same question for the rear...What is 'typical' ramp position, and does dampening screw start from all in, or just the quarter screw S-H positions?
Reason of interest...Cornering isn't as 'weightless' as promoted. I also have 190 rear, so that could be factor?
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 466
From: SF Bay Area
Assuming that you weigh more than 125 and less than 250, and on stock suspension, here is the generally accepted baseline set up. Forks, preload all the way in, and REBOUND is set by doing the bounce test.
On the rear, being sprung for a 250lbs rider, preload all the way off and reboud again is done with the bounce test. Also a 6mm shim is very common (I love the results). A few good links and bits on info here https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...vs-shim-30953/
As for the 190 tire, I have not road on one but I have been looking into it for a track day and it seems that the common consensus is that they slow the bike in terms of "flick-ability".
Hope this helps.
On the rear, being sprung for a 250lbs rider, preload all the way off and reboud again is done with the bounce test. Also a 6mm shim is very common (I love the results). A few good links and bits on info here https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...vs-shim-30953/
As for the 190 tire, I have not road on one but I have been looking into it for a track day and it seems that the common consensus is that they slow the bike in terms of "flick-ability".
Hope this helps.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 501
From: Orlando, FL
Hello all!....New(ish) owner, with a couple thousand under my belt. Very happy for the most part, will take the winter to pull apart (with the GREAT information found in the search engine within this site) and 'update' motor.
Now, first...stupid question: Simply not familiar with set-up.
Front...Typical set up?....Now I have 2 rings showing (was 5 when I bought it)...What's with the dampening screw? It is out like 4 threads from flush. Is that correct, or do you set from 'all the way in', and back off from there?
Same question for the rear...What is 'typical' ramp position, and does dampening screw start from all in, or just the quarter screw S-H positions?
Reason of interest...Cornering isn't as 'weightless' as promoted. I also have 190 rear, so that could be factor?
Now, first...stupid question: Simply not familiar with set-up.
Front...Typical set up?....Now I have 2 rings showing (was 5 when I bought it)...What's with the dampening screw? It is out like 4 threads from flush. Is that correct, or do you set from 'all the way in', and back off from there?
Same question for the rear...What is 'typical' ramp position, and does dampening screw start from all in, or just the quarter screw S-H positions?
Reason of interest...Cornering isn't as 'weightless' as promoted. I also have 190 rear, so that could be factor?
All the info for stock settings can be found in the work shop manual under the knowledge base section of the forum.
But so you know stock settings on all are made from a base point of all the way out not in, check in the manual for proper settings because the can be unscrewed all the way out of the forks and shock and you DO NOT want to do that, so do some reading start from stock and go from there.
The best way is to change 1 setting at a time and ride for 20 or so miles and keep making your adjustments till they are on point.
Not to be a dick but bounce testing does nothing because its not just vertical forces acting on the suspension when you're riding. vertical, lateral, twisting and tweaking of forks swing arm and frame all have effecting the performance of the suspension.
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